Subject: black.2of3
this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
on one end.
3. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.
4. The pipe can be pre-filled with sawdust. When ready for use, simply pour
in the nitromethane, then detonate.
Nitromethane/Ammonium Nitrate Explosive Sec. I, No. 34
A moist explosve can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with liquid nitromethane. This explosive has both high power and high brisance
and can be used as a direct substitute for TNT. This explosive can be readily
detonated by a blasting cap, No. 6 in strength. A compound detonator is not
required.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm or feed store, or chemical
32% nitrogen) or pure supply house
Nitromethane Hobby stores, chemical supply
house
measuring container
mixing container
storage container w/ tight lid
Two flat boards (same as No. 30)
Blasting cap (No. 6)
Procedure
---------
1. Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board and
rub vigirously with the other board or rolling pin until the large
particles are crushed into a fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10
minutes per handful)
Note: Proceed with steps 2 and 3 as soon as possible, since the powder may
moisture from the air and become spoiled.
2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume
or 2 parts by weight of nitromethane into 3 parts by volume or 5 parts by
weight of powdered ammonium nitrate. Stir until completely mixed, then
store in a sealed container until ready to use.
3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack
a selected charge container with powdered ammonium nitrate. When ready
to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of nitromethane into the
ammonium nitrate and allow to soak in for 3 to 5 minutes before using.
Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitromethane into the
ammonium nitrate is to not allow the ammonium nitrate to be disturbed after it
has been soaked with nitromethane. Whenever a liquid is poured into a powdered
substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly uniform
density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a direct
overall effect of the explosive performance, it is important to first pre-pack
a rigid container with ammonium nitrate and then pour in the nitromethane and
allow to soak without stirring. This will produce a high performance
explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low performance explosive.
How to Use
----------
1. This explosive is one of the most powerful/brisant two component explosives
readily available. Each component is perfectly safe to handle by itself.
However, when the two are mixed together, they form a sensitive high
explosive that can be detonated with a standard blasting cap.
2. This explosive mixture should be used to defeat hard targets, such as steel
and reinforced concrete. It can also be used with special charges that
require high brisance, i.e., shaped charges, platter charges, and SCIMP
charges.
Nitromethane Liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 35
A liquid explosive, that resembles water in appearance, can be made from
nitromethane and aqueous ammonia (household glass cleaner). This exposive is
22 to 24 more powerful that military TNT and can be detonated with a standard
blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity, a compound detonator
should be used.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Nitromethane chemical supply or hooby store
(racing fuel)
Aniline, ethylenediamine, aqueous ammonia Hardware stores, chemical
(non-detergent) supply, grocery store
measuring container (cup, pint, etc.)
blasting cap or compound detonator
Procedure
---------
Note: Nitromethane is a common chemical reagent, and under normal conditions
cannot be made to detonate even if a strong detonator is used. However, if
certain ammonia-containing compounds (called sensitizers) are alled in small
percentages (5-6 %), then the sensitized nitromethane can be detonated with a
standard #8 blasting cap. The most effective sensitizers are aniline and
ethylenediamine. The most readily available sensitizer is common household
glass cleaner (aqueous ammonia).
1. To produce the explosive, simply pour the sensitizer into the nitromethane
and mix thoroughly. One-half pic sensitizer will sensitize one gallon of
nitromethane.
2. The explosive can be premixed, or for safety's sake, it can be mixed just
prior to use by prefilling a charge container with nitromethane and then
adding the sensitizer when ready to detonate.
How to Use
----------
1. This liquid explosive can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be
used for disguiseability. It can be poured directly into prefabricated
special charge containers, i.e., shape charges, platter charges, and SCIMP
charges, without special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities
required for solid explosives to be effective.
2. To obtain the maximum efficiency, a compound detonator should be used for
initiation. Reliability of initiation is increased by positioning and
immersing the detonator centrally with respect to the wall of the
container. By centrally positioning and immersing the detonator in the
liquid, the output energy of the detonator is transmitted to the
explosive instead of being partially dissipated through the wall of the
container.
do dont
"-" = cap
| - | -| |
| - | -| |
| - | -| | +++++++ +++++++
Fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 36
A liquid explosive can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with liquid anhydrous hydrazine. This liquid explosive is more powerful and
brisant than C4 plastic explosive and can be used as a direct replacement for
C4. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. However, to achieve
maximum velocity a compound detonator should be used.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Ammonium nirtate fertilizer (not less than farm or feed store or
32% nitrogen) chemical supply store
anhydrous hydrazine chemical supply house
large mixing container
glass stirring rod
storage container
blasting cap, compound detonator
Procedure
---------
Note: Anhydrous hydrazine is classified as as corrosive and is flammable.
Keep away from spark or flame. It is also mildly toxic and should be handled
in well ventilated areas. Affected areas of skin should be washed with large
quantities of water.
1. Pour into the mixing container an amount of anhydrous hydrazine equal to
the amount of explosive required.
2. Ammonium nitrate (prilled or powdered) is then added, a teaspoon at a
time, to the hydrazine in the mixing container.
Note: The mixing container should be fairly large (5x the volume of the
hydrazine) because the chemical reaction between the ammonium nitrate and the
hydrazine is extremely effervescent and can easily bubble over the top.
3. Because of the effervescent reaction, the ammonium nitrate should be added
very slowly so as not to create accidental over-flowing. With each
addition of ammonium nitrate, the person doing the mixing should wait for
the initial reaction to subside, then stir the solution until all of the
ammonium nitrate dissolves into it.
Note: The reaction between the ammonium nitrate and hydrazine liberates large
volumes of poisonous gas. The person doing the mixing should be upwind of the
mixing process so as not to breath the poisonous fumes.
4. The mixing process is continued until the ammonium nitrate no longer
dissolves into the solution, even after five minutes of stirring, and a
small amount reamains undissolved at the bottom of the mixing container.
This undissolved ammonium nitrate does not affect the performance of the
explosive.
5. After the mixing process is complete, what will remain will be a clear
liquid explosive more powerful and brisant that any military explosive.
Note: The mixed explosive has a lower toxicity of the hydrazine. However, it
is recommended that the same handling precautions be observed.
6. To make an even more powerful explosive, 20% aluminum powder (100 mesh or
finer) can be added to the ammonium nitrate before mixing with the
hydrazine (it does not react with the other two ingredients), or ir can
be added after the mixing process is complete.
How to Use
----------
1. This explosive is the most powerful/brisant of the two complement explosive
systems available. It can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be
used for disguiseability.
2. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers,
i.e., shape, platter and SCIMP charges, without special measures being
taken to maintain uniform densities required by solid explosives to be
effective.
3. It has unique absorption and retention poperties which can be used to
create a liquid land mine. The liquid explosive can be poured directly
into the ground, soaking into and blending with the surrounding earth.
The pocket of explosive can be initiated by a conventional electrically
or mechanically actuated detonator. These pockets of explosives have
remained detonable for four days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather.
/----wet explosive in ground.
____________ / ____________
\ \_/ </ /
\ _____/____
\_______/ \-detonator placed here
Explosive paper Sec I, No. 37
An excellent absorption explosive can be made from a solution of PETN (the
center filler of detonator cord), acetone, and mineral oil. When any non-gloss
paper, i.e., newspaper, paperback books, corrugated cardboard, etc., is dipped
in this explosive solution and then removed and allowed to dry, the paper will
retain its original texture and appearance along with a microcrystaline high
explosive incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. This produces a
disguised explosive that can be carried into a target area without arousing
suspicion.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
PETN detonating cord (primacord)
Acetone hardware stores
mineral oil drug stores
mixing container
pan or bucket larger than the mixing
container
large, flat pan, (cake pan)
sheets of newspaper, paperback books,
corrugated cardboard, etc.
Procedure
---------
1. Using a razor blade, cut detonating cord lengthwise and remove the center
filler (P.E.T.N.). Approx. .5 lb. of PETN can be removed per 100 ft.
of detonating cord.
2. Fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone and heat until mildly warm by
placing the canning jar in a pan or bucket on heat source when it contains
the canning jar.
3. Add PETN to the acetone, a tablespoon a a time, while stirring with a
stirring rod. Stir the solution until the PETN dissolves. Add more PETN
until it no longer dissolves into solution, even after five minutes of
stirring. Approx. 1/3 lb. of PETN will dissolve in every lb. of warm
acetone used.
4. Approx. 2% mineral should be added to the final solution. This mineral
oil will prevent the crystals of PETN from recrystalizing to a noticeable
size when the acetone evaporates. The mineral oil will also provide a
better texture to the paper when it is dry after the soaking process.
5. Pout this solution into a large, flat pam, then fill the pan with even
sheets of a non gloss paper. It rolled newspaper is used, unroll it and
lay it out evenly in the an. Allow the paper to soak for 30 minutes.
6. After soaking for 30 minutes, remove the paper and allow to dry for at
least 24 hours. DO NOT DRY IN AN OVEN. After the papr has had time to
dry, 50 % of its weight will consist of a microcrystaline high explosive
intimately incorporated into the fiber content of the paper.
How to Use
----------
1. To use simply insert a blasting cap ot compound detonator into the paper
and detonate.
2. If a rolled newspaper is used, the detonator and fusing mechanism can
be concealed in the center of the roll and easily carried into the
target area and left where destruction is desired. An average size
newspaper has the explosive equivalent of several sticks of dynamite.
RDX Sec. I, No. 38
RDX is a powerful/brisant high explosive that can be made from
hexamethylenetetramine and strong nitric acid. It can be used as a booster
explosive for compound detonators, as a main explosive filler, and for the
manufacture of explosive flour (Sec. I, No. 39)
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Hexamethylenetetramine (hexamine) Drug stores under names of
urotropine, hexamin,
methenamine, etc.
strong nitric acid (d 1.50) Sec. I, No. 4
Acetone drug store
weighing scale with at least gram
accuracy or measuring spoons
graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or
measuring cups
thermometer 20 degrees - 100 degrees C or
68 degrees - 212 degrees F
several large quart canning jars
two large basins or bowls made of metal
or other similar material that can be
heated
paper towels
Procedure
---------
1. Place .5 cup, 120 ml or cc of nitrix acid in a large canning jar and bring
the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees C. (68-86 F) By putting the
jar in a basin of cold water. If necessary, swirl the canning jar around
the basin of cold water to bring the temperature down, while being careful
not to allow any water to splash into the acid.
Note: Maintain the thermometer in the acid throughout the reaction while
carefully noting and controlling the temperature by alternating the jar between
the basin of cold water and the basin of hot water. The thermometer can be
used as a stirring rod if the solution is gently stirred.
2. Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the
hexamine and start adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon
at a time, during a 15 minute period. Maintain the temp. between 20 - 30
degrees C, while stirring gently with the thermometer. Control the temp.
by dipping the canning jar in and out of the basin filled with cold water.
3. When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to
55 degrees C, by placing the canning jar in a bsin of hot water. Maintain
tis temperature for about 10 minutes.
4. After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from
the basin of cold water and place it in the basin of cold water. Cool the
canning jar to 20 degrees C. (68 degrees F).
5. When the temperature has reached 20 degrees C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of
cold water to the solution and a white salt will appear.
Note: The white salt is RDX and should be handled with great care from now on.
6. Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the
mouth of another jar.
7. Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and into a canning jar, using
an additional 3 cups of fresh, cold water. Add a teaspoon of sodium
carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir rapidly for 2-3 minutes, then
filter again.
8. The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter. It is
suitable for fairly immediate use, or it can be purified.
9. To purify RDX, fill a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone. Heat the
acetone by placing the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add
RDX, a tablespoon at a time, until it completely dissolves in the
acetone.
10. After the maximem amount of RDX has been dissolved into the hot acetone,
allow the solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one
more hour.
11. The RDX will form a salt once again. Filter the RDX and spread it out on
a paper towel as before.
12. The purified RDX should be stored in a clean canning jar with a tight
fitting lid. It can be stored for months without loss of effectiveness.
Note: RDX is not too sensitive to heat and shock, but is fairly sensitive to
friction. Care should therefore be taken when the explosive is to be packed or
when the dry explosive is handled. Using the amounts of chemicals listed in
this article, the yield of RDX should be about 1/5 oz.
Explosive Flour Sec. I, No. 39
An explosive that looks and bakes like ordinary wheat flour can be made from a
mixture flour and RDX. It can be used in many different forms as an explosive:
in its dry powder form, moistened with water and used as a dough like plastic
explosive, or by using special recipes it can be baked into pancakes or
bisuits.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
RDX Sec. I, No. 15
Sec. I, No. 38
Flour grocery store
large sheet of wood, and a rolling pin
(wood must be flat)
Procedure
---------
1. Place a tablespoonful of RDX crystals on the large sheet of wood. Using
a rolling pic, crush the crystals into a fine powder, the consistency of
flour.
Note: Use only a rolling pic, not a block of wood. It is important to crush
the RDX crystals into a fine powder rather than using friction between to
rubbing surfaces.
2. Mix 80% by weight of powdered RDX with 20% by weight of flour in a canning
jar with a tight fitting lid by shaking for five minutes.
3. The mixed explosive flour can be stored in the sealed mixing conainer for
long periods of time before using. It can also be disguised by storing
it in an original bag of flour.
How to Use
----------
1. This explosive flour is more powerful and brisant that military TNT and
is easiest to detonate in its powdered form. A standard blasting cap
provides sufficient shock to set it off.
2. To use as a plastic explosive, mix 4 parts by weight of flour to 1 part
by weight of water. This forms a dough that has very desirable plastic
qualities which can be used to mold itself around vertain types of
targets in the same manner as military C4 plastic explosive. A compound
detonator must be use to insure positive detonation.
3. The following recipes make it possible to bake the powdered explosive into
pancakes or biscuits:
A. For pancakes, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
.5 teaspoon of salt
1 cup of milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons of melted lard
Note: This pancake mixture can be left of the griddle until it completely chars
with no unusual effects, thus demonstrating the stability of the mixture to
heat.
B. For explosive biscuits, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
3/8 teaspoon of salt
2 teaspoons of lard
88 ml or cc of water
4. The finished pancakes and biscuits look, feel, and taste like ordinary
pancakes and biscuits. However, they are highly toxic, and SHOULD NOT
BE EATEN. Before using these baked items as an explosive, they must be
moistened and kneaded into a plastic masss to remove the air spaces.
They may be exploded in the same manner as the plastic form.
Pipe Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. I
Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic
or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from
shotgunn or small arms ammunition.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1.5" to 3" in
diameter, 3" to 8" long
2 end caps
explosive or propellant
nonelectric blasting cap (comm. or military)
fuse cord
hand drill
pliers
Procedure
---------
1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes
for a known length of fuse to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a six
inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds.
2. Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into
the opposite end so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe.
Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before inserting blasting
cap. Push a round stick into the center of the exlosive to make a hole and
then insert blasting cap.
3. Pour exlposive or propellant into pipe a little at a time. Tap the base
of the pipe frequently to settle filter.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough
for the fuse cord to pass through.
5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe
cap over the fuse and screw handtight onto pipe.
Nail Grenade Sec. II, No. 2
Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other
blasting explosive and nails.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Block of TNT or other blasting explosive
Nails
Non-electric military blasting cap
fuse cord
tap, string, wire or glue
Procedure
---------
1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make
a hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT
can be drilled with relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can
be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole
should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the
explosive.
2. Tape, tie or glue on or two rows of closely packed nails to sides of
explosive block. Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the
block.
3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: Use same method in Sec. II, No. 1 to determine burning lengths of fuse.
4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie
fuse cord securly in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade
is thrown.
Alternate Use
-------------
An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on
only one side of the explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap
should be used.
Wine Bottle Cone Charge Sec. II, No. 3
This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 in. of armor. Placed on an engine
conpartment, it will disable a tank or other vehicle beyond immediate repair.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Glass wine bottle with cone shaped false
bottom
Plastic or castable explosive
blasting cap
gasoline or kerosene (small amount)
string
adhesive tape
Procedure
---------
1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene. Double wrap this
string around the wine bottle approx. 3 in. above the top of the cone.
Note: Adding a small amount of motor oil to the gasoline or kerosene will
improve results.
2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 1 to 2 minutes. Then plunge the
bottle into cold water to crack it. The top half can now be easily removed
and discarded.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
A. Pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time compressing with
a wooden rod. Fill the bottle up to the top.
B. Press a .25 in. wooden dowel .5 in into the middle of the top of
the explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.
4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
A. Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or non-
sparking metal tools. Place pieces in a tin can.
B. Suspend this can in a larger container which is partly filled with
water. A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will
accomplish this.
Note: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container.
C. Heat the containr on a electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir
the explosive frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting.
Note: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be
poisonous.
D. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and
stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. Diring this
time the bottom half of the wine bottle should be placed in the
container of hot water. This will pre-heat the bottle so that it
will not crack whenthe explosive is poured.
E. Remove the bottle from how water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten
explosive into the bottle and allow to cool. The crust which
forms on top of the charge during cooling should be broken with a
wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary
until the bottle is filled to the top.
F. When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting
cap in the middle of the top of the charge about .5 in. deep.
How to Use
----------
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If non-electric
blasting cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is
long enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3-4 in. from the target. This can
be done by taping legs to the charge or any other convenient means as
long as there is nothing between the base of the charge and the target.
3. If electric blasting cap is used, connect blasting wires to firing
circuit.
Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it inside a
can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the charge and
the container.
Grenade/Tin can land mine Sec. II, No. 4
This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is
pulled.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Hand grenade having side safety lever
Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just
large enough to slip over the grenade and its
safety lever.
Strong string or wire
Procedure
---------
1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of the container, making
a strong connection. This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can,
looping through them, and tying a knot.
2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.
3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot
interfere with the functioning of the ignition mechanism of the
grenade.
4. Insert grenade into container.
5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc.
The string should remain taught.
stake container w/ grenade stake
_______
| trip wire | |
|------------------------------------ |------------------|
| ______| |
How to Use
----------
1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever
is restrained during this position during this operation. Grenade will
function in normal manner when trip wire is pulled.
Note: In area where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained
by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below (yuk)
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | tree |
|\ \| |
| \ | |
| \| |
| | |
_|_ | |
Grenade -> | | | |
|___| | |
| | |
| | |
stake trip wire | | |
|----------------------------------------------/\ | |
| / \-------------
knot
Mortar Scrap mine Sec. II, No. 5
A directional mine that can be placed in the path of advancing troops.
Materials Sources
--------- -------
Iron pipe, appprox. 3 ft. in length and 2-4 Scrapyard, steel company
in. in diameter and threaded on at least Salvaged artillery case
one end
Threaded cap to fit pipe
black powder or salvaged artillery powder
(.5 lb total)
Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or
improvised ignitor from Sec. VI, No. 1.
Safety or improvised fuse may also be used
Small stones, about 1 in. in diameter or small
size scap; about 1 lb. total
rags for wadding, each 20 in. x 20 in.
paper or bag
battery and wire
stick (non-metallic)
Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws
Procedure
---------
1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe.
2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie package with string
so contents will not fall out.
3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests
against threaded cap leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe.
4. Roll rag until it is about 6 in. long and the same diameter as pipe.
Insert rag wadding against packaged propellant ignitor. With caution, pack
tightly using stick.
5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe.
6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap.
pack tightly as before.
explosive stones/scrap firing leads
rags rags
------------------------------------------------
|XXXXXX:::::::::(*&(*()(*&::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\
|XXXXXX:::::::::()&*%%^$*)::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\\\
------------------------------------------------ \\
\\
How to Use
----------
1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy.
The open end may be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dist or
leaves as camoflage.
2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired
when needed or attached to a trip device placed in path of advancing
troops.
Note: A NON-ELECTRICAL ignition system can be substituted for the electrical
system as follows:
1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter.
2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire.
Coke bottle shaped charge Sec.II, No. 2
This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in. of armor. It will disable a vehicle if
placed on the engine or engine compartment.
Materials
---------
Glass coke bottle 6.5 oz. size
plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb.
blasting cap
metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. long and 2 in. inside diameter
(should be heavy walled for best results)
plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.)
Non-metal rod about .25 in. in diameter and 8 in. or more in length
tape or string
2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (see Sec. II, No. 3)
Procedure
---------
1. Place plug in mouth of bottle.
2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cyliner rests of widest
part of bottle. Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on
top of bottle.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
A. Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until
cylinder is full.
B. Press the rod about .5 in. into the middle of the top of the exlosive
charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.
4. If castable explosive is use, follow procedure of Wine Bottle cone charge,
Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, a thru f.
How to Use
----------
Method 1. If electrical cap is used.
1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive.
Note: Do not insert cap until ready to detonate the charge.
2. Place bottom of coke bottle flush against the target. If target is
not flat and horizontal, fasten bottle to target by any conveneint means,
such as by placing tape or string around target and top of bottle. Bottom
of bottle acts as stand-off.
Note: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is
nothing between the target and the base of the bottle.
3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.
Method II. If non-electrical cap is used.
1. Crimp cap around fuse.
Note: Be sure there is enough fuse to allow a safe delay.
2. Follow steps 1, 2 and Notes of Method I.
3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
Cyndrilical Cavity shaped charge Sec. II, No. 7
A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1.5 in of
steel, producing a hole 1.5 in in diameter.
Materials
---------
Ir on or steel pipe, 2 to 2.5 in. in diameter and 3 to 4 in. long.
Metal pipe, .5 to .75 in in diameter and 1.5 in. long, open at both ends.
Pipe should be as thin as possible.
Blasting cap
Non-metallic rod, .25 in. in diameter
Plastic or castable explosive
2 metal cans of different sizes ------|
|
stick or wire | only if castable explosive is used
|
heat source ------|
Procedure
---------
1. If plastic explosive us used:
A. Place larger pipe on flat surface. Hand pack and tamp explosive into
pipe. Leave approx. .25 in. space at the top.
B. Place rod in center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to
diameter and length of small pipe.
C. Insert small pipe into hole.
Note: Make sure that there is direct contact between the explosive and the
small pipe. Hand pack if necessary.
D. Make sure that there is .25in. empty space aboce small pipe.
Remove pipe if necessary.
E. Turn large pipe upside down, (the whole object) and pus rod .5 in.
into center of opposite end of explosive to form a hole for the
blasting cap.
Note: Do not insert cap until ready to fire shaped charge.
2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
A. Follow procedure, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, Parts A, B, C, including
Notes.
B. When all explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir
the molten explosive until it begins to thicken.
C. Place large pipe of flat surface. Pour explosive into pipe until
it is 1.75 in. from the top.
D. Place small pipe in the center of large pipe so that it rests on top
of exlosive. Holding small pipe in place, pour explosive around
small pipe until explosive is .25 in. from top of large pipe.
E. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that forms on top of the charge
during cooling with a wooden stick and add more explosive. Do this
as often as necessary until explosive is .25 in. from top.
F. When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and
bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the
charge about .50 in. deep.
How to Use
----------
Method I. If an electrical cap is used.
1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it.
Note: Do not insert cap until ready to use.
2. Place other end of pipe flush against target. Fasten pipe to target by
any convenient means, such as by placing tape or string around target and
on top of pipe. If target is not flat and horizontal.
Note: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target and that there is
nothing between the charge and the base of the pipe.
3. Connect leads from cap to firing circuit.
Method II. If non-electrical cap is used.
1. Crimp cap around fuse.
Note: Be sure that there is enough fuse to allow safe delay.
2. Follow steps 1, 2 and notes of Method I.
3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
Funnel shaped charge Sec. II, No. 9
An effective shaped charge can be made using various commercial funnels. See
table for penetration capabilities.
Materials
---------
Container (sode or beer can, etc.), approx. 2.5 in. in diameter x 5 in. long
Funnels (glass, steel or aluminum) 2.5 in. in diameter
Wooden rod or stick, .25 in. in diameter
tape
blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical)
sharp cutting edge
explosive
Procedure
---------
1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard.
2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s).
Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified funnels together as
tight and as straight as possible. Tape the funnels together at the outer
ridges.
3. Place the funnels in the modified can. Tape outer ridges to hold funnels
to can.
4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive using small
quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.
Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3.
5. Cut wodden rod to lengths 3 inches longer than the standoff length. (see
table) Position three of there rods around the explosive filled can and
hold in place with tape.
Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to the standoff
dimensions to obtain the penetrations given in the table.
________________
_ | |
| | <-|----explosive
3| --| |--
i| - | /\ | - rods (legs) held on with tape
n| - | / \ | -
| - | / funnel \ | -
- - |/____________\| -
- - - -
| - - -
- - - -
^
|>standoff
Table
Funnel Material | No. of funnels | Standoff (ins.) | Penetration |
------------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | |
| glass | 1 | 3.5 | 4 |
| | | | |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | |
| steel | 3 | 1 | 2.5 |
| | | | |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | |
| aluminum | 3 | 3.5 | 2.5 |
| | | | |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------
| If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | |
| steel | 1 | 1 | 1.5 |
| | | | |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | |
| aluminum | 1 | 1 | 1.5 |
| | | | |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------
6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod
or stick.
Note: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is
ready to use.
How to Use
----------
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If non-electric
cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough
to provide safe delay.
2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel Shaped Charge on the target so that
nothing is between the base of charge and target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit.
Linear shaped Charge Sec. II, No. 10
This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through nearly 3
inches of armor depending opon the liner used. (see table)
Materials
---------
Standard structural angle or pipe (see table)
wood or cardboard container
hacksaw -----|
| only is pipe is used
vise -----|
wooden rod, .25 in. in diameter
explosive
blasting cap
tape
Table
| Type | material | liner size | Standoff | Penetration|
------------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| angle | steel | 3x3 legs x | 2 in. | 2.75 in |
| | | .25 in web | | |
|-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| angle | aluminum | 2x2 legs x | 5.5 in. | 2.5 in. |
| | | 3/16 web | | |
|-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
| pipe half | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 in. | 2 in. |
| section | | | | |
|-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
|pipe half | copper | 2 diameter | 1 in. | 1.75 in. |
|section | | | | |
|-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------|
Procedure
---------
Note: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to
be more efficient than the ribbon charge.
Ribbon Charge: No standoff; just place on target.
1. If pipe is used:
A. Place the pipe in the vise and cut pipe in half lengthwise. Remove the
pipe half sections from the vise.
B. Discard one of the pipe half sections, or save for another charge.
2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface.
3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide
as the angle or pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the
desired cut to be made with the charge.
4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner
to container.
5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive
ising small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.
Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3.
6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the standoff length (see
table). Postition the rods at the corners of the explosive filled
container and hold in place with tape.
Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff and
penetration dimensions given in the table.
7. Make a hole for blasting cap in the side od the container .5 in. above the
liner and centered with the wooden rod.
Note: Do not place blasting cap inside Linear Shaped Charge until ready to
detonate.
How to Use
----------
1. Place blasting cap into hole on the side of the container. If non-electric
cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough.
2. Place (tape if necessary) the LSC on the target so that nothing is between
base of charge and target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit.
Soap Dish charges Sec. II, No. 11
Using common plastic soap dishes, two special charges can be prepared. One is
a miniature claymore mine, and the other being a miniature Pertoleum Oil/Liquid
charge for the destruction of small P.O.L. storage containers and vehicle gas
tanks.
Materials
---------
Soap dishes consisting of two separate halves, the bottom flat half fitting
into the to bevelled half (standard soap dish)
Any homemade high explosive
blasting cap
.25 in. diameter steel ball bearings and epoxy resin (wristrocket ammo)
theremite incediary (Sec. V, No. 20), or other metalized incediary mixture
small alnico 5 horseshoe or double sided adhesive tape, or both
Procedure
---------
1. To produce a miniature claymore mine, follow the steps below.
A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish.
B. Fill the bottom half with any powerful homemade explosive.
C. Fill the top half to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch diameter
steel ball bearings held together with a light coating of epoxy
resin.
D. Insert the bottom half into the top half and secure in place with tape.
2. To produce a miniature P.O.L. charge, follow the steps below:
A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish.
B. Fill 1/2 inch of the bottom half with a metalized incendiary such as
thermite or aluminum granules.
C. Fill the remaining half of the bottom half with any powerful homemade
explosvie.
D. Fill 1/2 to the top half with the same homemade explosive.
E. Insert the bottom half of the soap dish into the top half and secure
in place with tape.
How to Use
----------
1. Claymore mine:
A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double-sided
adhesive tape or attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the
top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both attachment
methods can be combined so the mine can be attached to almost any
surface area.
B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole
in the rear center of the bottom half.
C. Insert a detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to
the sides of the soap dish and connect to the detonator.
D. Attach the bottom of the soap dish, vertically, to any surface
facing the target area, within a 45 degree angle from either side
of the center line of the soap dish. For attachment, use either
the tape or magnets, or both if possible.
2. P.O.L. charge:
A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double sided
adhesive tap, or attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the
top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both attachment
methods can be combined so the mine can be easily be attached to
almost any surface area.
B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole in
the rear certer of the top half of the soap dish.
C. Insert the detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to
sides of the soap dish and connect to the detonator.
D. Using magnets, tape, or both, attach the bottom of the soap dish to
any surface containing petroleum products, i.e., 55 gallon storage
drums, rail and truck P.O.L. shipping cars, gas tanks of vehicles, etc.
Mini-Compound detonators Sec. II, No. 12
Miniature compound detonators can be made from empty .22 Magnum sheel casings,
a quantity of secondary (booster) explosive, a smaller quantity of primary
explosive, an ignition charge and a loading press. These powerful miniature
detonators are used in the construction of various type of miniature hand
grenades, i.e., cigarette lighter hand grenade, shotgun shell impact grenade
and explosive candles.
Materials
---------
Empty .22 magnum shell casings or copper, brass or aluminum tubing 1/4 inch in
diameter, 1 inch long, and closed at one end.
A quantity of secondary explosive, i.e., RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) or (Sec. I, No.
38), PETN (the center filling of Primacord (detonating cord)
A quantity of primary explosive, i.e., mercury fulminate (Sec. I, No. 24), HMTD
(Sec. I, No. 17), acetone peroxide (Sec. I, No. 28)
An ignition charge or either black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) or small arms
propellant
A loading press, or materials to construct a loading press as illustrated
Procedure
---------
1. If a loading press is not available, construct on as illustrated below:
(this is going to be touchy, please stick with me)
5 feet
|--------------------------------------------------------|
_
metal plate for slot | |
6 ins. \ | | <- 1 inch thick wooden barricade
|-------| \ | |
_ \ _| | /> slot for lever /- 2x4
__| |__________________|| |/_______________________________ / wooden
|_|o|___________________ ________________________________|| lever
| | | -| | o---------
| | 2 || | ___peep hole |
| | | |-|_/ (safety glass) |
| | _ /1 |-| |
_| |_ ___ / _| |_ |
|_____| |_|_| |_____| |
/-------------^--------------------\ | <- Rope
|_____________|____________________| |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | <-table |
| | detonator | | __|__
|_| |_| weight-> |___|
Notes: 1. Block- wood (10" x 10" x 6" or steel (6" x 6" x 6") with 3/8"
diameter hole 1" deep.
2. 1/4" O.D. hard brass or wood ram
Note: The loading press is provided with a protective barrier and a remote
system of rope and pulley operation to provide operator safety during loading.
Only wood and spark-proof (brass) metals are used near the exlosive.
CAUTION: Making detonators is hazardous business that can be made safe by
taking certain precautions. Operations must be performed slowly and with great
care. Cleanliness is important. Dirt in the explosive or containers will
greatly increase sensitivity to detonation by impact or shock. If possible the
air should be moist. Boil a bucket of water in the room before starting to
work if the air is dry. When inserting and removing the ramrod and when
carrying primary explosives, use tongs or pliers. If possible, uuse only one
hand at a time when handling the primary explosive in the loading process and
wear protective goggles at all times.
2. With the arrangement shown on the preceeding page, the pressure applied
to the exlosive inside the shell casing will be about 200x the force
applied to the end of the lever. That is, a 20 pound weight pulling at
at the handle will compress the explosive with a press of 4,000 lbs. of
pressure per sq. in. This pressure is required for the best sensitivity
of mercury fulminate. A 2.5 gallon bucket of water weighs about 20 lbs.
3. Light a candle and let two drops of wax drop into the bottom of each
shell casing before using.
4. Allow the wax to cool, then insert the shell casing into the loading
block.
5. Fill the shell casing to a depth of 1/4 in. with RDX or PETN secondary
explosive. Gently insert the ram.
6. Compress the explosive slowly and evenly by pulling on the rope until the
weight leaves the ground. Remove the ram carefully.
7. Continue the adding and pressing operation until a column of secondary
explosive 5/8 inch high has been pressed into the 1 inch long shell
casing.
8. Add a small quantity of primary explosive on top of the secondary
explosive and gently insert the ram.
9. Continue the adding and pressing operation until an additional 1/4 inch
column of primary explosive has been pressed on top of the 5/8 inch column
of secondary explosive.
10. Gently compress the remaining 1/8 inch of empty space with an igniter of
either black powder or smokeless pistol powder.
11. Seal the top with either tape or wax paper held in place with a small
rubber band until ready to use.
Note: When inserting the detonator into a selected hand grenade, be careful not
to tilt the detonator and let the igniter charge spill out. Instead, place the
grenade over the detonator and lower it until the detonator is sealed into
place, then invert the genade and fill with explosive.
Cigarette Lighter Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. 13
An effective and powerful miniature hand grenade can be made from a Zippo brand
cigarette lighter, any homemade explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec.
II, No. 12). This explosive device can be used either as a hand grenade or a
boobytrap.
Materials
---------
Any powerful homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I,
No. 32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc.
Mini-Compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12)
Black powder (Sec. I, No. 3)
Zippo cigarette lighter, approx. 2 1/4" length x 1 1/2" Diam., or larger
Copper and brass tubing 9/32" diameter x 12" long
hacksaw
small mixing bowl
epoxy resin
Procedure
---------
1. Obtain a zippo lighter with outer case dimensions of approx. 2 1/4 long x
1 1/2" wide x 1/2" deep. Separate the inner lighter mechanism from the
outer casing and remove all the cotton wadding.
2. Remove the cotton ignition wick and convert it into a black powder time
fuse by the following steps:
A. Place a couple of tablespoons of black powder (sec. I, No. 3) into a
small mixing bowl and add enough water until it looks like a heavy
oil.
B. The cotton wick is placed in the oil-like mixture and stirred
for 15 minutes so that it becomes saturated with the black
powder mix.
C. The cotton wick is removed and hung to dry for four hours.
D. This mixture fuse was found to have a burning rate of 1.3 seconds
per inch.
Note: Be sure and test burning time on a similar wick before using. If a new
Zippo lighter is used, it is necessary to use the lighter approx. 25 times
before disassembling. This will make the lighter appear used and will blacken
the cotton ignition wick which will help disguise the black powder time fuse
that will be reinserted.
3. Reinsert the cotton wick fuse through the wick hole and leave enough fuse
in the ignition chamber so that it can easily bepulled from the igniter.
Note: Knot the end of the fuse inside the lighter sothat it won't pull free
later when using.
4. Using a hacksaw, cut a one inch length from a 9/32" diameter piece
of copper or brass tubing.
5. Insert this one inch tube over the wick hole and use a 1/8" layer of
epoxy resin or other strong glue to seal in place.
6. Insert a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) into the holding
tube inside the lighter.
Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful
detonator and should be handled carefully at all times.
7. Fill the remaining space to within 1/8" of the bottom with any homemade
explosive this manual.
Note: The explosive can be loaded in first, and when ready to use, simply
insert the detonator. When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a
base explosive, load the cigarette lighter with either base explosive and
insert the detonator. When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator
of either nitromethane or nitrobenzene.
8. After filling to within 1/8" in. of the bottom with explosive, cut off a
1/8" strip from the original cotton wadding and insert in the bottom of
the lighter to complete the disguise.
How to Use
----------
1. To use as a hand grenade, simply pull out a length of fuse and ignite
with a separate cigarette lighter or match.
2. To use as a boobytrap, insert the lighter, with a short fuse, into the
target area.
Shotgun shell impact grenade Sec. II, No. 14
An effective and powerful impact grenade can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun
shell, any homemade high explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No.
12). This explosive devise can be used as an impact grenade or as a boobytrap.
Materials
---------
Any homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32),
ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc.
Mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, NO. 12)
12 gauge shotgun shell
wood dowel or steel bar 11/16" in diameter and any length beyond 1/2"
hacksaw
drill w/ 1/4" bit
pieces of cloth, 12" x 12"
epoxy resin or strong glue
steel ball bearings 3/8" in diameter
electrical tape
Procedure
---------
1. Either cut off or open up the forward end of any 12 gauge shotgun shell and
empty out the shot, wadding, spacer and propellant. Retain the shell
casing.
2. In order for the mini-detonator to be over the center of the primer, a
detonator guide cylinder has to be made from either a piece of bar
steel or a wooden dowel in the following manner:
A. Using a hacksaw, cut a 1/2" length of 11/16" steel bar or wooden
dowel.
B. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole in the center of the 1/2 long wood or
metal cylinder.
Note: It is preferred that a steel cylinder be used in ot to lend more weight
to the base of the shell case.
3. After the guide cylinder is prepared, it is glued in place in the bottom
of the shotshell case.
Note: Do not place any glue on the primer in the base of the shell casing.
4. The mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) is the inserted, open end
down, into the guide cylinder and glued in place.
Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful
detonator and should be handled carefully at all times.
5. Fill the remaining space in the shotshell case with any homemade high
explosive in this manual.
Note: When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive,
load the shotshell case with either base explosive. When ready to use, simply
pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane/nitrobenzene.
6. After the top of the shotshell has been resealed, tape a 3/8" steel ball
bearing in place over the center of the primer in the base of the shell.
7. Cloth streamers (12" x 1/2") are then taped in place around the shotshell.
These streamers lend stability in flight and insure bottom base impact with
the ground.
8. As a further refinement, nails can be taped around the shotshell case
with ntches, spaced 1/4" apart, down the length of the shell.
How to Use
----------
1. To use as a grenade, simply throw into the target area.
2. To use as a boobytrap, do not attach streamers or the ball bearing.
Simply insert the shotshell case into the target area.
Platter Charge Sec. II, No. 15
An extremely effective directional charge can be made from a steel pipe cap,
any high explosive, and a tin can. This charge is effective against such
targets as transformers, generators, fuel storage containers and vehicles. It
can be fired horizontally or used as an improvised land mine and fired
vertically.
Materials
---------
Steel pipe cap with a diameter between 1" and 24"
Tin can or other similar container with an inside diameter being the same as
the steel pipe cap
sheet of wood 1" thick
steel pipe cap, (between 1 - 2" in diameter) and a piece of pipe, (approx. 2"
in length
drill with 1/4" bit
Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., nitromethane/ammonium nitrate explosive
(Sec. I, No. 34), fertilizer/hydrazine explosive (Sec. I, No. 36), or
nitromethane liquid explosive (Sec. I, No. 35)
blasting cap
Procedure
---------
1. Obtain a steel pipe cap. An ideal diameter would be 6 - 12". However,
pipe caps as small as 1" may be used.
2. Locate a coffee can or similar container with an inside diameter the same
as the outside diameter of the pipe cap. Remove the lid (do not throw
away) and empty the contents of the can and clean it out.
3. Place the pipe cap in the bottom of the can with the concave side
facing the bottom of the can.
4. An exact center priming disk must be made from a 1" thick piece of wood in
the following manner:
A. Using the coffee can lid from step 2 as a template, place it on a
sheet of wood 1" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil.
B. Using a saw, cut the disk out of the sheet of wood. After cutting
the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole through the exact center. If this
priming disk is to be used as a packing tool for the solid explosive,
center sink the 1/4" center hole to fit the head of a 1/4" bolt.
Set the disk aside for later use.
5. If a solid explosive is being used. the following constructon technique
should be used:
A. Using the center priming disk prepared from step 4, a uniform packing
tool can be prepared by the addition of a 1/4" nut and bolt, a steel
pipe cap and a piece of pipe.
B. Carefully pack an amount of solid explosive equal to the weight of
the pipe cap around and behind the pipe cap using the packing tool.
For example, if the pipe cap weighs five pounds, use five pounds of
solid explosive.
Note: For this charge to be effective, it is necessary to uniformly pack the
explosive behind the pipe cap with no air gaps.
C. After the explosive has been loaded into the tin can behind the
inverted pipe cap, disassemble the packing tool and place the priming
disk over the ompressed explosive. Seal the inside edges with glue,
wax, or tar. The discarded pipe handle and cap can be used later to
form a pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1)
Note: The wood priming disk prepared in step 4 has three ain uses: as a packing
tool for solid explosive, as a lid to keep the explosve from falling out of the
conainer, and as a template that insures exact rear center priming of the
charge.
D. After the priming disk has been sealed in place, insert a blasting cap
through the center hole and into the solid explosive to a depth of
3/4". Seal around the cap with glue, wax or tar.
6. When using a liquid explosive, an easier construction method may be
used:
A. When ready to use, simply pour in an amount of liquid exlosive equal
to the weight of the pipe cap and seal in place the wood priming disk
prepared instep 4.
B. Insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into the liquid
explosive to a depth of 3/4". Seal around the blasting cap with
glue, wax, or tar.
7. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be
sufficient room inside the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a wrist
watch delay timer with battery (Sec. VI, No. 4), or a small remote
control radio reciever.
-----------------------------------
| *&*)+(_)(*_&)(_*&)(*&&)(*&*(&() |
| *&(@#*_#() coffee ()&*^)^67^& |
| ^&%^$&^$#%^T*T*&%^*&%$&*^%^*&%^ |
|---------------------------------| <- false bottom
&& = bulb initia.| () () () () |&&| /----------\ | <- batteries in series w/
XXX = sealant-> |************XXX|c |XXX***********| wrist watch timer
|***************|a |**************| <- wood packing disk
|***************|p |**************|
|///////////////| |//////////////|
|///////////////| |//////////////|
|///////////////|__|//////////////|
|/////////////////////////////////|
|/////////// explosive /////////|
|/////////////////////////////////|
|//////---------------------\\\\\\|
|//////| pipe cap |\\\\\\|
|//////| |\\\\\\|
|_____/ \_____|
|| ||
||_______________________________||
-----------------------------------
Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inseting a third disk covering the
fizing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and then pouring coffee
into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can
to complete the disguise.
How to Use
----------
1. The unique capability of this charge is that it can be fired through a
chain link fence and into its target without any loss of effectiveness.
At close range the platter will penetrate about one inch of mild steel
plate. It is effective at ranges up to 100 feet or more, although at
this distance penetration is reduced to about 1/4" of mild steel at best
and sighting becomes a problem unless the target is a very large one.
2. Upon detonation, the platter is projected forward at tremendous velocity.
The air in front of the platter is compressed and becomes superheated. It
is this mass of air, moving at extremely high velovity, that first
penetrates the target. The platter follows and may indeed strike the
target, but research has shown that the primary destruction effect is
created by the compacted high velocity air column.
SCIMP (Special Charge Improvised Projectile) charge Sec. II, No. 16
Using materials that are readily available in its construction, this mine will
defeat almost any target that is mad-made, i.e., tanks, armored cars,
buildings, etc. This charge is four times for effective than any other
directional charge, to include shaped and platter charges. This directional
charge utilizes two special techniques to achieve its effectiveness; one is
sandwiching an explosive charge between two steel plates, and the other
involves detonating this charge from all sides at the same time (periphreal
detonation).
Materials
---------
oil filter cap or other similar steel dish
No. 6 sheet metal screws, 1" long
steel plate, 1/8" thick
Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., fertilizer/nitromethane,
fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive, and nitromethane liquid explosive
wood or styrofoam sheets, 1" thick
blasting cap
coffee can or other similar container
drill with 1/4" bit
Procedure
---------
1. Obtain a concave steel dish, 3" to 12" in diameter: for example, by
removing the center retaining bolt from any two piece oil filter assy.
and using the oil filter cap (an oil filter from a 1951-53 chevy, with
a diameter of 5 1/4" is ideal).
2. Plug the bolt hole in the center of the cap with wood, rubber, or cork
stopper.
3. Using the oil filter cap as a template, place it on a sheet of steel
1/8" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil.
4. Using a hacksaw, cut the disk out of the plate.
5. Repear steps 3 and 4, cutting out two disks from a 1" thick sheet of wood
or styrofoam.
6. Take the three disks (one steel and the other two wood or styrofoam) and
glue them together with the steel disk on one side. Set aside for later
use.
7. Locate a coddee can or similar container with an inside diameter 1/4" to
1/2" larger that the outside diameter of the filter ca. Remove the lid
(do not throw away) and empty and clean the can.
8. Using the coffee can lid as a template, repeat steps 3 and 4 on a 1"
thick sheet of wood, and after cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole
in the exact center and set aside for later use.
9. Place the oil can filter cap in the bottom center of the coffee can
and glue in place with the concave cap facing towards the bottom of the
cap.
| ____ |
| ____________/ \___________ |
|/ \|
|-------------------------------|
10. If a solid explosive is being used, the following construction
technique should be used:
A. Mark two rings around the inside of the coffee can; one 3" from the
bottom of the can, and the second 5 5/8" from the bottom of the can.
B. Carefully pack the explosive uniformly around the filter cap until
it reaches the 3" mark inside the can.
Note: The 1" thick wood disk prepared from step 8 can be used as a uniform
packing tool by attaching an improvised handle using a piece of pipe, two pipe
caps and a 1/4" nut and bolt.
C. After reaching the 3" mark inside the can, place the three later disk
assy. (prepared in step 6) on top of the compressed explosive.
Center it with the steel disk on the explosive.
D. Carefully pack the explosive between the inside edge of the can and
the edge of the three layer disk assy. until the explosive level is
even with the top of the disk.
E. Carefully pack an additional 1/2" layer of explosive on top of the
last styrofoam or wood disk. This layer should reach the second ring
marked inside the can.
Note: Again the wood disk/pipe packing tool can be used to compress the
remaining explosive on top of the charge.
F. Disassemble the wood disk/pipe packing tool by removing the center nut
and bolt that holds the two together. Save and use the pipe for a
future pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1).
G. Place the 1" thick wood packing disk on top of the explosive contained
inside the can and seal with glue, wax or tar.
H. When ready to use, insert a 1/4" blasting cap through the center hole
in the wood disk and into the 1/2" layer of explosive.
Note: The wood disk prepared from step 8 has three main uses; a packing tool, a
lid to prevent the explosive from falling out of the container, and a template
that insures rear center priming of the charge.
11. When using a liquid explosive, a slightly different and easier
construction method is used:
A. Mark two rings around the inside of the can; one 5 1/8" from the
bottom of the can and the second 6 5/8 from the bottom of the can.
B. Place the top of the three layer disk assy. at the level of the first
ring marked inside the can and secure in place with four No. 6 sheet
metal screws spaced wvery 90 degrees around the outside of the coffee
can and screwed into the center of the center disk assy. Since the
disk assy. is smaller than the inside diameter of the coffee can, it
can be held in place by inserting 1/4" wood dowels between the can and
the assy. When the four supporting screws have been screwed into
place, the wooden dowels can be removed.
C. Place the remaining 1" thick wood disk, prepared from step 8, at
the level of the second ring marked inside the can and secure
in place with four more No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced every 90
degrees around the outside of the can. Seal the inside edges with
wax, glue or tar.
D. When ready to use, simply pour the liquid explosive through the
center hole until fill. Insert a blasting cap through the hole and
into the 1/2" layer of liquid explosive. Seal around the hole and
blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar.
12. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be
sufficient room inside the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a watch
delay timer with batteries (Sec. IV, No. 4), or a small remote control
radio reciever.
13. After the fuzing mechanism has been inserted, the original metal lid
that was removed and set aside ealier is now glued inside the plastic
sealing lid that comes with most coffee cans and snapped back in place
on top of the can. The whole charge then resembles an ordinary coffee can.
plastic lid
|
|------------------------------------------|
| *&&&*^%&&*&%^*&^**&^%%^&*%%^*&&%^**&^^%% |
| ()*(*((^*&&%^ coffee *&%$%$*&%&**(&*$ |
| (_*(_)*&^&%^**&^(()*__)(*(*&^_*&^(^&%&%^ |
|------------------------------------------|<-false bottom
()= batteries | () () () () |&&| ----\\\\\\\\ |<-batteries in
&&= electric |+__________________+|c |+_----////////___+| series, clothes
+= seaant |+ |a | +| pin delay
|+___________________|p |_________________+| _
|//\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ | |\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//| | 1/2" explosive
|\\///////////////// |__|////////////////\\| - on top of disc
|\\--------------------------------------//|
|\\- -\\|
|//--------------------------------------//| <- no space
|\\--------------------------------------\\| between
metal screw ***** ***** metal screw
|//--------------------------------------//|
|\\@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@\\| <- steel plate
|//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////|
|\\\\\\ "\" and "/" = explosive //////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////|
| /---\ |
| /------------------------------------\ |
| | oil cap | |
| -------------------------------------- |
============================================
Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inserting a third disk covering the
fuzing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and the pouring coffee
back into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of
the can to complete the disguise.
How to Use
----------
1. The SCIMP charge should be used when direct access to the target it not
possible, i.e., under or beside a roadway or hanging on a fence looking
into the target area.
2. The applications are very similar to a platter charge with the exception
that the SCIMP charge has far greater penetration ability of hard targets
at long distances than does the platter charge. The SCIMP charge
described here can penetrate 1" thick steel at 50 years.
Note: The SCIMP charge relies on a super-heated, rod-like projectile traveling
at ultra high velocity to destroy its target.
Typist Note: I, the Mad Cracker, am not going to type every damn picture in the
book. If you would like to build a "pipe pistol" I suggest you buy the books.
Unless you totally understand the instructions, I would not consider to attempt
these without pictures, as they are dangerous enough when done with the
pictures.
Pipe Pistol for 9mm Ammunition Sec. III, No. 1
A 9mm pistol can be made from 1/4" steel, gas or water pipe and fittings.
Materials
---------
1/4" nominal size water pipe, 4-6 inches long with threaded ends
1/4"solid pipe plug
Two (2) steel pipe couplings
Metal strap, roughly 1/8" x 1/4" x 5"
Two (2) elastic bands
Flat head nail, 6D or 8D (approx. 1/16" in diameter)
Two (2) wood screws #8
wood 8" x5" x 1"
drill
1/4" wood or metal rod, approx. 8" long
Procedure
---------
1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws in the pipe or
fittings.
B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a 9mm cartridge as a gauge. The
bullet should closely fit into the pipe without forcing but the
cartridge case SHOULD NOT fit into pipe.
C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT be less that 1 1/2 times bullet
diameter (.536 in; 1.37 cm)
2. Drill a 9/16" diameter hole 3/8" into one coupling to remove the thread.
Note: Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of the pipe.
3. Drill a 25/64" diameter hole 3/4" into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge;
when cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the base of the case should
be even with the end of the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe,
drilled end first.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe plug just large enough for the
nail to fit through.
Note: THE HOLE MUST BE CENTERED IN PLUG.
5. Push nail through plug until head of nail is flush with square end. Cut
nail off at other end 1/16" away from plug. Round off end of nail wih
file.
6. Bend metal strap to "U" shape and drill holes for wood screws. File two
small notches at top.
7. Saw or otherwise shape 1" thick hardwood into stock.
|- length must be 2" greater than length of unassembled pipe -|
- | <---2 ins.---> |-------------------------------| -
| |-1 in.-|------------------ | | 1in.
| / | |
6 | / --------- -
i | / ----------------------------/
n | / /
s | / <-2 in. -> /
| / /
| / /
| / /
| / /
- ----------------
8. Drll a 9/16" diameter hole through the stock. The center of the hole
should be approx. 1/2" from the top.
9. Slide the pipe through this hole and attach front coupling.
Note: If 9/16" drill is not available, cut a "V" groove in the top of the stock
and tape pipe securely in place.
10. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.
Attach to stock with wood screws on each side.
11. String elastic bands from front coupling to notch on each side of the
strap.
SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE PISTOL BEFORE HAND FIRING
1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand
behid in case the pistol ruptures when fired.
2. Mount pistol solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet
in front of the barrier.
3. Attach a cord to the firing strap on the pistol.
4. Holing the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.
5. Pull cord so that the firing strap is held back.
6. Release the cord to fire the pistol. (If pistol does not fire, shorten
the elastic bands or increase their number)
Note: Fire at least five rounds behind the barrier and then re-inspect the
pistol be