002: Credit Card Fraud
003: Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach
004: Picking Master Locks
005: The Arts of Lockpicking I
006: The Arts of Lockpicking II
007: Solidox Bombs
008: High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox
009: CO2 Bombs
010: Thermite Bombs
011: Touch Explosives
012: Letter Bombs
013: Paint Bombs
014: Ways to send a car to HELL
015: Do ya hate school?
016: Phone related vandalism
017: Highway police radar jamming
018: Smoke Bombs
019: Mail Box Bombs
020: Hotwiring cars
021: Napalm
022: Fertilizer Bomb
023: Tennis Ball Bomb
024: Diskette Bombs
025: Unlisted Phone Numbers
026: Fuses
027: How to make Potassium Nitrate
028: Exploding Lightbulbs
029: Under water igniters
030: Home-brew blast cannon
031: Chemical Equivalency List
032: Phone Taps
033: Landmines
034: A different kind of Molitov Cocktail
035: Phone Systems Tutorial I
036: Phone Systems Tutorial II
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presents:
******* ****** ****** ** ** ****** ****** ****** ** **
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** ** ** ** ** **** ***** ** ** ** ** **** v1.0
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******* ****** ****** ** ** ****** ****** ****** ** **
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them. Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use
your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card examples:
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process. The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are
typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work
days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years. Good luck!
*---------------------------------------*
| |
| MAKING PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES FROM BLEACH |
| |
*---------------------------------------*
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
*-----------------------*
| |
| PICKING MASTER LOCKS |
| |
*-----------------------*
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
The Arts of Lockpicking I
*-----------------------------------------------*
| |
| LOCKPICKING I: CARS AND ASSORTED OTHER LOCKS |
| |
*-----------------------------------------------*
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:
Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks
are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second. When this happens the lock
will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful, but when it does work, the results are
very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all. It will also open group two locks (including government,
high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
The Arts of Lockpicking II
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.
*---------------*
| |
| SOLIDOX BOMBS |
| |
*---------------*
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
of sugar.
[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
You have been warned!
*----------------------------------*
| |
| HIGH TECH REVENGE: THE BEIGEBOX |
| |
*----------------------------------*
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
Making a beigebox:
Obtain an old phone, and cut off the plug on the end. Solder an
alligator clip onto the red wire, and the green wire.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
Connecting the beigebox:
Look on the outside of your victim's house, taking note of any
wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their
house. Follow the wires, and find where they connect. The
telephone wire should be black, and about the width of your small
finger. You do NOT want the 220 volt house current, unless you
like having a permanent orange afro.
When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house, it should
run down their wall, and into a small beige or grey box. Some
boxes have a bolt in the dead center, and some have even gone as
far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem). Now,
you must open the box, and observe: you should see three bolts,
each with wires attached. Connect the two alligator clips to the
two outside bolts, and then you should get a dial tone. If you
do not get a dial tone, experiment with the connections. By the
way, don't worry about getting electrocuted; there is not enough
power in the phone lines to harm you.
After placing a few phone calls, if you really want to get even,
pull all the wires out of the box. This will result in about a
$100 dollar service charge for your enemy.
Use your imagination!
*------------------------*
| |
| HOW TO MAKE A CO2 BOMB |
| |
*------------------------*
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger-
*-------------------------------*
| |
| A BETTER WAY TO MAKE THERMITE |
| |
*-------------------------------*
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.
- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
conductive.
- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST
ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum
filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
grams.
- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the
burning magnesium to light the thermite.
- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger-
*--------------------*
| |
| TOUCH EXPLOSIVES |
| |
*--------------------*
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
*---------------*
| |
| LETTER BOMBS |
| |
*---------------*
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
*---------------*
| |
| PAINT BOMBS |
| |
*---------------*
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
-Jolly Roger-
*-----------------------------*
| |
| WAYS TO SEND A CAR TO HELL |
| |
*-----------------------------*
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!
- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
etc.)
- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this on is good!), a ping pong ball,
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.
- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
----
| |
| |
| |
| <
----
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)
*--------------------*
| |
| DO YA HATE SCHOOL? |
| |
*--------------------*
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).
- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
inside if they are (gag) IBM.
- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
cards.
- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
is a fascist.
- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
*-------------------------*
| |
| PHONE RELATED VANDALISM |
| |
*-------------------------*
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
-Jolly Roger-
*-----------------------*
| |
| HIGHWAY RADAR JAMMING |
| |
*-----------------------*
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
-Jolly Roger-
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!
*-------------*
| |
| SMOKE BOMBS |
| |
*-------------*
Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
-Jolly Roger-
*---------------------------------*
| |
| THE EASIEST WAY TO HOTWIRE CARS |
| |
*---------------------------------*
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
off! -Jolly Roger-
*--------------------*
| |
| HOW TO MAKE NAPALM |
| |
*--------------------*
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!
*-------------------------------*
| |
| HOW TO MAKE A FERTILIZER BOMB |
| |
*-------------------------------*
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
*-------------------*
| |
| TENNIS BALL BOMBS |
| |
*-------------------*
Ingredients:
- Strike anywhere matches
- A tennis ball
- A nice sharp knife
- Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
-Jolly Roger-
*----------------*
| |
| DISKETTE BOMBS |
| |
*----------------*
You need:
- A disk
- Scissors
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
metal might spark the matchpowder!)
- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
- Let it dry
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger-
*------------------------*
| |
| UNLISTED PHONE NUMBERS |
| |
*------------------------*
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service
rep would call the customer service number for billing information
in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown
business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of
town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if
the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER,
no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a
listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if
you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might
want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists
phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux,
but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
numbers down! -Jolly Roger-
*-------*
| |
| FUSES |
| |
*-------*
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar
Procedure:
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
rinse with fresh water
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
- moisten powder to form a paste
- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
- rub paste into string and allow to dry
- Check the burn rate!!!
*-------------------------------*
| |
| HOW TO MAKE POTASSIUM NITRATE |
| |
*-------------------------------*
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
Procedure:
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.
Purification:
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
*----------------------*
| |
| EXPLODING LIGHTBULBS |
| |
*----------------------*
Materials needed:
-lightbulb (100w)
-socket (duh...)
-1/4 cup soap chips
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
-adhesive tape
-lighter or small blowtorch
-glue
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so
that it touches the filament!
- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or
else YOU will be the victim!!)
- Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler
- Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
- Put somewhere and allow to cool
- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
- Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament
back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
fluid.
- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently
used by the victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!
*----------------------*
| |
| UNDER WATER IGNITERS |
| |
*----------------------*
Materials needed:
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle
Procedure:
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater
- repeat to make as many as you want
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
-Jolly Roger-
*------------------------*
| |
| HOME BREW BLAST CANNON |
| |
*------------------------*
Materials needed:
-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon
Procedure:
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.
- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.
- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
*---------------------------*
| |
| CHEMICAL EQUIVALENCY LIST |
| |
*---------------------------*
Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
*------------*
| |
| PHONE TAPS |
| |
*------------*
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
)!(
Cap ^ )!(
)!(
)!(
)!(
^^^^^---)!(------------->
^ 100K
!
! <Input
The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:
------^^^^^^^^^------------
---------
RELAY^^
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)
If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
reading.
For more info:
BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
Press.
*------------------------*
| |
| HOW TO MAKE A LANDMINE |
| |
*------------------------*
First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
switch-----------battery
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
|
|
|
explosive
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha
*---------------------------------------*
| |
| A DIFFERENT KIND OF MOLITOFF COCKTAIL |
| |
*---------------------------------------*
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
*------------------------*
| |
| PHONE SYSTEMS TUTORIAL |
| |
*------------------------*
To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
telephone numbering plan.
North American Numbering Plan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:
A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , ie, area code
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
(CO) code plus a 4 digit station #
These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
code. It is in the format of:
Area Code Telephone #
--------- -----------
N*X NXX-XXXX
Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
* = the digit 0 or 1
X = a digit from 0 to 9
Area Codes
~~~~~~~~~~
Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes
found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):
510 - TWX (USA)
610 - TWX (Canada)
700 - New Service
710 - TWX (USA)
800 - WATS
810 - TWX (USA)
900 - DIAL-IT Services
910 - TWX (USA)
The other area codes never cross state lines, therefore each state
must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is
split by a state line, the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie,
you can dial the same number from two different area codes).
TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are
owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other
TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most
likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s, these machines are
routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with
an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The
answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".
If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX
messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have
to hack your way onto this one!
700:
700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is
targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this
works, I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig
works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak
around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS
system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime
Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a
special 700 #, enters a code, and the number where he is staying.
Now, if his boss received some important info, all he would do is
dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed
it to. Neat, huh?
800:
This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free
calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area
Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar
with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of
these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from
anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated
(that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery
and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48
contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only
the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less people can
reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.
Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie, you can call it from only 1 state)
always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie, 800-NX2-
XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is
located. For example, a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate
at a NY CO.
800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it
tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if
this is busy, it will try the next #, etc. You must have a minimum
of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt
series. If you dial (800) 521-8400, it will first try the #
associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next
available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of
hours of calls made to their #.
OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls
only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate
discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls, they
are in the format of:
(800) *XXX-XXXX
Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a
letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX
identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can
call.
Remember:
INWATS + OUTWATS = WATS EXTENDER
900:
This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for
taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute
currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional
minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!
Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.
CO CODES
~~~~~~~~
These identify the switching office where the call is to be
routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:
555 - directory assistance
844 - time. These are now in!
936 - weather the 976 exchange
950 - future services
958 - plant test
959 - plant test
970 - plant test (temporary)
976 - DIAL-IT services
Also, the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test
and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.
You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code
(unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these
exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as
conference #'s, operators, test #'s, etc.
950:
Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:
1000 - SPC
1022 - MCI Execunet
1033 - US Telephone
1044 - Allnet
1066 - Lexitel
1088 - SBS Skyline
These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress
phones! Also, the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with
the introduction of Equal Access
Plant Tests:
These include ANI, Ringback, and other various tests.
976:
Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also, many
bbs's have listings of these numbers.
N11 codes:
----------
Bell is trying to phase out some of these, but they still exist in
most areas.
011 - international dialing prefix
211 - coin refund operator
411 - directory assistance
611 - repair service
811 - business office
911 - EMERGENCY
International Dialing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
With International Dialing, the world has been divided into 9
numbering zones. To make an international call, you must first
dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #
In North America, the international dialing prefix is 011 for
station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s
directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance
Dialing (IDDD).
The country code, which varies from 1 to 3 digits, always has the
world numbering zone as the first digit. For example, the country
code for the United Kingdom is 44, thus it is in world numbering
zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other
country codes, but here I give you a few:
1 - North America (US, Canada, etc.)
20 - Egypt
258 - Mozambique
34 - Spain
49 - Germany
52 - Mexico (southern portion)
7 - USSR
81 - Japan
98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)
If you call from an area other than North America, the format is
generally the same. For example, let's say that you wanted to call
the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his
numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens, you know! ha ha).
First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix),
then 1 (the US country code), followed by 202-456-1414 (the
national # for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him
the bad news!)
Also, country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service, ie,
calling ships:
871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
871 - Marisat (Pacific)
872 - Marisat (Indian)
International Switching:
------------------------
In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform
the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All
international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed
through one of these "gateway cities". They are:
182 - White Plains, NY
183 - New York, NY
184 - Pittsburgh, PA
185 - Orlando, Fl
186 - Oakland, CA
187 - Denver, CO
188 - New York, NY
The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to
be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use
a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard
for signaling.
Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this, read
part two which is the next file #36 in the Jolly Roger's cookbook!
*---------------------------------*
| |
| PHONE SYSTEMS TUTORIAL: PART II |
| |
*---------------------------------*
Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office
heirarchy, & switching equipment.
Operators
~~~~~~~~~
There are many types of operators in the network and the more
common ones will be discussed.
TSPS Operator:
The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard,
for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:
1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
calls
2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.
3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.
4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
# is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
(ONI- Operator Number Identification).
<I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator
came on and said, "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity,
I gave her the number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was
connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
& his wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
immediately dropped this dual line conference!
You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.
INWARD operator:
This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you would dial
KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
a future file).
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:
This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES
know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.
There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
regular operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being
talked out of information through the process of "social
engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.
<Unfortunately, they do not have access to much. I once
bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
process your request (sorry, no fancy computers!)
Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).
CN/A operators:
CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
directory assistance operators are for. In my experience, these
operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie, you give them the name &
they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
employee. Unfortunately, the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A
INTERCEPT Operator:
The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
has been disconnected or changed. She usually says, "What # you
callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from,
it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
they usually understand very little English anyway.
Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.
OTHER Operators:
And then there are the: MObile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine
Verify, "Leave Word and Call Back," Rout & Rate
(KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special operators who have one
purpose or another in the network.
Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
Class Name Abb # Existing
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
> 6 RSU RSU n/a
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
^ ___ ^
( (-----) | | | ___ )
\ | |__| |__ ( |\ | |\ /
\ | | | | | | \ | | \ /
\ | | | |___ |__ | \ | | ) /
\ | | \| | / /
\ (___ | | |/ /
\ /
\ /
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510-527-1662
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078
New Dork Sublime Demented Pimiento 415-566-0126
Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
arcane knowledge, political extremism, diverse sexuality,
insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.
Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are,
where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
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