*** Low Grade Explosives ***
***(and their various uses)***
Lady Isabel
(And you thought only guys liked to blow things up.)
Thanks to:
+>Black Unicorn
+>Uni (Dark)
(Be aware, all of the formulas and methods listed herein involve
class "A" explosives. They are dangerous and can result in injury or
fatality or both. Use at your own risk. Safety first.)
For ease of use, safety, stability, and versatility, you can't beat
low grade explosives.
If you're reading this file, chances are you're not satisfied
with the mostly complex and dangerous processes documented in the
assorted files floating around, most of which are based on something
the author read from some other text file and who knows where the
author of that text file got his information anyway. Not to say
that there are not some extremely informative and well written files
on high grade detonating explosives, but I'm sure you will agree
that they are the exception rather than the rule. Most files try to
cover too much ground and end up sacrificing important details in
the long run. If you're still alive and have all your fingers, you
know enough to avoid these vague files, and you've keyed in the
right filename. All the practical information in this file is based
on PERSONAL EXPERIENCE that I have had with these compounds and
their use.
Unlike High Grade (concussion) explosives which detonate, low
grade explosives deflagrate (Burn extremely quickly). High grade
explosives include RDX, C-4, and TNT. Low grade explosives include
most ammonium nitrate mixtures, gunpowder and flashpowder and are
usually two component compounds composed of a high oxidizer and a
fine "fuel" powder. Technically what I refer to in this file as
"Low Grade Explosives" are not explosives in the true sense of the
word at all, but with knowledge, they often can be utilized in a way
such to produce much the same effect.
The uses of low grade explosives.
Low grade explosives do not have the concussion ability of
high grade explosives. Because of this they cannot be used for the
following:
1. Demolition of re-enforced structures.
(Steel, concrete, brick)
2. Shaped charges or dampening demolition.
(Sandbag dampers, safe cracking)
3. Level one booby traps.
(Rigged toys, lightbulbs, etc.)
Low grade explosives release the majority of their non-heat
energy in the form of sound and local overpressure. This makes them
perfect for the following applications.
1. Demolition of pseudo-airtight structures.
(Newspaper machines, mailboxes)
2. Demolition of glass or partial glass structures.
(Cars, windows, small rooms)
3. Low level anti-personal devices.
(Stun grenades, nail grenades.)
Characteristics of low grade explosives manufacture.
Low grade explosives are really only fast burning powders
enclosed in an airtight or pseudo-airtight container. Firecrackers
are a fine example. Removed from the paper wrapping, the powder
used in typical firecrackers will do no more than burn. Enclosed, a
degree of overpressure effect is created and the effect is
noticeably more violent. The power of a low grade explosive is
dependent in part on the strength of the container used. The
stronger the container, the higher the pressure buildup before
rupture and "detonation." It is easy to see that a cardboard
container will produce less effect than a pipe like container.
The amount of powder used yields a marginal return. That is
to say, after a point increase in the amount of powder added will
result in less increase in "yield." Generally, the amount of powder
used should be about twice the minimum amount needed to rupture the
container. After this point, additional powder will only result in
increased light/burn effects, as most of the powder will be unburned
as the container ruptures. Unfortunately, the subjective nature of
container construction and powder formula makes determining the
exact amount of powder more of an art than a science. Trial and
error is the only tried and true method.
Mixing the powder itself is also a rather subjective process.
If you are expecting to just pour two chemicals together and light
the result, read another file. Care must be taken to achieve the
desired effect.
Selecting powder formulas.
The formula used is really a matter of personal choice. More
or less the selection of formula is based on what is available and
cheap, but there are important side effects to formula selections.
Below is a partial list of workable oxidizers:
Potassium Perchlorate
Potassium Chlorate
Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Permanganate
Sodium Chlorate
Barium Nitrate
and Fuels:
Aluminum Powder
Magnesium Powder
Zinc Powder
Sugar
The combinations you choose are a matter of choice and
availability but some mixtures can produce undesirable effects.
Many of the Chlorate based mixtures can be highly friction
sensitive. (Sodium Chlorate and Potassium Chlorate are examples in
this category) As a rule, I prefer to use Potassium Perchlorate and
Potassium Permanganate as oxidizers. Aluminum powder tends to be
the cheapest and best burning fuel, but Magnesium produces by far
the best light effects and is preferable when construction flash
bombs or stun grenades. For a rundown on mixtures and their
properties read the file "The Art of Making M-80's and M-100's" It
has a wealth of accurate information on specific characteristics of
several mixtures. The two mixtures I will emphasize are Potassium
Perchlorate and Aluminum Powder and Potassium Permanganate with
Aluminum Powder. The key to a powerful mix is surface area.
Aluminum powder should be at least 400 mesh, but between 600 and
1000 mesh is preferable. The finer the metal powder, the faster the
burn. If at all possible use 600+ mesh powder. You will be much
better off with finer powder, believe me. Potassium Permanganate
comes in crystals and will leave dark brown (but not painful) burns
on skin. These burns disappear quickly, but gloves should always be
worn. When using fine Aluminum, airborne particles will be a
problem. Aluminum powder is not considered toxic but can lead to
Aluminosis and should not be breathed. The combination of airborne
crystals and Aluminum powder can do wonders for your hair too.
Rubber gloves, eye protection and a filter mask would not be
overkill and I highly recommend you use them.
Grind the Potassium Permanganate crystals to a fine powder.
Spare no effort in crushing the crystals. The grade of the oxidizer
will be the limiting factor in your mixture and thus the finer the
better. The purple crystals will begin to look brown as they get
finer. Combine two parts oxidizer by volume and one part fuel by
volume in a plastic bag (al la Zip Loc) and mix carefully but very
thoroughly. Static is a real possibility here so caution is the key
word. I don't advise you prepare more than you will need in the
next week or so but I have on occasion left a bag of mixed powder
laying around for up to a month with no ill effects. The Potassium
Permanganate mix is very stable but take no chances. A good close
view of 8 ounces of flash powder going up, enclosed or not (say in
your face) I promise you will never forget. The Potassium
Perchlorate is less stable and should be treated accordingly.
Neither mix however is really volatile.
Before using in devices, I suggest a test of powder quality.
Six canisters of useless powder won't do you any good. When testing
try using the same fuse you plan to construct your devices with. My
favorite method is to pour the powder on loose leaf paper and then
run a fuse to the pile. Do NOT use more than a couple of ounces
this way. Flashpowder in large quantities will explode even
unconfined. An ounce of the Potassium Permanganate mixture will pop
loudly even uncontained. The powder burns so quickly, the air has
no time to get out of the way and a shockwave builds up. No more
than a teaspoon is needed for a test. When the powder catches it
should burn INSTANTLY. "FOP!" The powder will burn VERY brightly,
I don't advise you look right at it. All the powder should burn
almost at the same time, not progressively.
If ignition is not instantaneous, go back to square one and try
grinding the oxidizers finer. DO NOT regrind mixed powder.
Once you have tested your powder and are satisfied with the
results, you should construct the containers you plan to use. Size
is not real important here. Consider the size of the average M-80
when constructing your containers. Those black film containers with
the gray top work well, and are quite powerful. For more of a bang
try plastic prescription bottles or EXTRA STRENGTH BAYER bottles. I
wouldn't recommend going much larger than a coke can. Drill a small
fuse hole somewhere in the bottle but NOT in the cap. I suggest
through the label, about in the middle. Run a long length of fuse
into the bottle through the hole and out through the open top. Fray
the end of the fuse that you threaded through the hole. This will
assure the powder will catch. As the flame reaches the frayed end
of the fuse it will spark a bit and ignite what might otherwise not
have burned. After fraying the fuse, pull it back into the bottle
until the frayed end hangs about in the middle of the bottle. Cut
the fuse on the outside to the length you prefer. (I like to allow
at least 7-10 seconds) It would be a good idea to test burning
speed of your fuse first. Tape the fuse to the outside of the
bottle so it won't move as you put the powder in. The amount of
powder to use is again, subjective. I have usually filled only
three quarters of the container, but experimentation with different
amounts in different or like containers is a good idea. If you want
more flash and burn, add more powder. Some air should be left in
the container as a rule however. Do not pack the powder. Finally
put the top on.
Containers alone are not enough to kick quite the way I like,
so you might try adding some duct tape. (The more the better) I
find the best explosions are with almost half a roll of duct tape on
the container. Black plastic electrical tape seems to work very
well also. More is more with tape. Make sure to tape the top down
very well. By the time you're done there should be a half inch of
tape over the entire surface of the container. No white should be
visible.
Again, constructing these devices is a subjective process, and
as long as you follow the theme you should get along just fine.
Power
A three quarter filled film canister with a roll of electrical
tape on it will do an impressive amount of damage. Tossing one of
these in a 55 gallon garbage can type drum will permanently
disfigure the drum, and a large aspirin bottle will rupture it
completely. Expect any car alarms in a 1 block radius to go off.
Placed under an orange traffic cone will result in a literal
disappearing act by the cone. After doing this I couldn't find a
cone piece much larger than a cassette tape, and none of them within
50 ft. Tossed within 10 ft of a person the shock wave will often
blow the individual off his / her feet. In alleys, most windows
will go for about half a block. File cabinets are amusing as are
bank deposit boxes (be careful with this one.) My personal favorite
is newspaper machines. Under optimal conditions, one can
occasionally see the shock wave take the moisture out of the air as
these devices explode. For more powerful devices, try porta-
potties. (Be a long way gone when these go, nitrogen/methane often
builds up in them.) I'm sure you can think of some creative uses on
your own. These devices are deafening. You and your car are in for
it if one goes off while you're transporting it. Don't expect to
hear much for a long time afterward if ever.
Beware of using metal and or glass containers unless you plan
you device for anti-personal purposes. These can easily kill or
maim even though they are not quite as deadly as detonating high
explosives.
Reality check. If you kill someone with one of these, you're
in it for murder. You have constructed a device with lethal
potential and used it in such a way to have killed someone. Do
yourself a favor and contain your activities to rural areas and the
occasional prank.
Enjoy.
''- LI
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