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є T H E S P O O K F I L E S є
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є VOLUME ONE є
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Let's face it, folks, the world is going to hell in a hand basket and
we're all being fucked over by the fascist regimes that we live in.
The government, school, work, whatever...they're all out to get us
and make our life miserable. They expect us to be robots, soldiers.
They want us to follow orders, obey their commands, do what we're
told. Bend over and get fucked and LIKE IT!
We're being savaged by a twisted society that is full of assholes who
think they know what's best for us. Well I say FUCK THEM!
I decide what I want out of life! I decide what's best for me! Not
some lame-fuck loser in a suit with a bad haircut and a phoney smile.
This handbook is for those of you who want to prepare for the day
when you must strike back against the assassins of our freedoms and
civil rights. If they think they're going to have an easy time
fucking us over, I got news for them.
As a member of the grassy knoll marksman's society (only three
members) and as a rogue agent of the secret government and a 20th
level archmage of the Illuminati, I know whereof I speak.
This book is for you. It was written by those who believe in the
importance of knowing how to fight tyranny.
In this manual, you will know many useful things related to being a
Secret Agent of Anarchy.
Copy it freely, but be careful of who sees it. They're watching.
-The Spook-
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This file is separated into sections: Funding techniques, Anarchy,
Phreaking, Drugs. Since everyone has a different way of printing out
files, I have added ANSI bars to seperate the articles. You should
place a hard page break where the double bars are.
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ЪДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДї
і F U N D I N G T E C H N I Q U E S і
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Before you begin your career, you're going to need money. Here are
some tips on how to get some if you don't already have it.
DISCLAIMER: I'd like to remind everyone that this in no way suggests
that I use these techniques. This is just information I've obtained
and am passing on. I'm already rich from my covert activities, so
these funding techniques are for emergencies only.
Important note: If you get busted, the penalty is stiff so if you
want to enter the realm of fraud, do it knowing you're on your own.
-The Spook-
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S O D A M A C H I N E R I P - O F F
Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores
and other places!
Okay, first--on all vending machines there are always those round
almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a piece of air
hardening clay (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it
into the lock real good! Then remove the clay carefully and put it
somewhere to dry! Make sure the clay is TOTALLY dry then go back in a
day or so and you will have a key to fit that lock put the key in and
push and turn and presto the machine will open allowing you to take
all the money!
A good machine will get you between 2100 and 300 dollars depending
when it was last checked by the company. Best of all if someone sees
you just put the key on the ground and step on it and its powder! And
then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away! So that's
it and if anyone has any good schemes, write a file on them and add
to the Mystery Note collection.
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C O I N M A C H I N E F R A U D I
Here's the equipment that you need access to in a fairly secluded
area:
1) A copy machine that is of fairly good quality.
2) A change machine that changes 1's and 5's to quarters.
3) A 1 or 5 dollar bill
4) A table paper cutter that cuts paper exactly straight.
5) A lot of courage!
OK what you do is walk into the place and copy the face side of your
dollar. Put the dollar bill face down and in the exact middle of the
machine's window. The first time you do this, only make one copy,
because it might not work correctly. When you get your copied dollar
bill from the machine, check the toner and make sure that it is just
like the original. If its too dark or too light, then adjust the
copy machine accordingly. When you get a perfectly contrasted
dollar, take it over to the paper cutter and put the original dollar
over the paper dollar and slice the dollar out of the big piece of
paper. Now for the fun part.
Make sure that there are no hidden cameras in the room watching you,
or you'll be caught for sure!
Walk up to the change machine and casually slide the dollar bill into
the machine and push the carriage or whatever in. If the dollar
comes back out then take it, rip it in half and put it in your
pocket. Throw it away someplace else. But if the jingling joy of
quarters comes, you will be in the money! But when you do it, do it
in mass amounts, because if you do one a day, they'll probably post a
guard in there or something.
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C O I N M A C H I N E F R A U D I I
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in
airports, laundromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in
your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you.
1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill
length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then
slide the tray in!
2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start
crumpling it up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should
have a very wrinkly surface.
3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left
side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure).
4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out
to the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should
happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks
everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the
notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done
it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up
getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little
practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of
money!
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! !
! (1) /-------\ (1) !
! ! ! !
! ! Pic. ! !
! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) !
! !! !
!-----/ \-----------------------!
\-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down
from (1)
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C R E D I T C A R D F R A U D
[1] Finding a Credit Card Number.
The easiest way to get Credit Card Numbers is to go to a trash bin of
a place that uses Credit Card Numbers. If the place doesn't bother
burning the papers, you can usually find hundreds and hundreds of
Numbers on a good day. If you work in a Gas station, you can get
millions of the things a day.
If you want to nail some guy you know, and you can break into his
car. Most people will save their Credit Card Numbers and its
registration right in the glove compartment for records about their
gas. Just break into the car, grab one of those papers, and voila!
A few warnings, many banks now have cameras set up to watch the
trash bins. You can either spray the camera with spray paint or cover
it with a sheet, but then just quickly grab some and run. You never
know if the cop will be watching that camera. Remember, the best way
to go Credit Card Number looking is to get with a friend who is in a
car, watching for other people.. Also, it is best to go late at
night, the later the better, the guards are usually so stupid that
they won't even bother watching. Most people that I know don't even
bother with banks trash-bins though. The only time it's good to do
that is if you're also trashing for hacking info. If you just need
some Credit Card Numbers then just find some good place that uses
Credit Card's and trash it..
There are other ways such as credit bureau's that you can get credit
card numbers as well as telephone numbers, and lots of other fun
information. However, as a whole, stay away from credit bureau's like
CBI and especially TRW. TRW has gotten extremely dangerous. If you
enter a false password, the the call is immediately traced. If you
decide to use credit bureaus that fine, but as whole, there is no
real need to. just go trashing for new Credit Card numbers, and you
real won't have anything to worry about. If you trash a place in
which the customers are rich, you usually won't have to worry about
the card being valid.
A note--> Visa and Mastercard have changed over to a new type of
carbon. In other words when you tear the copies , the number on the
carbons gets split in half. (Thanks Bomb Jack). There are still ways
around this. Have a friend of yours that works in one of these
places just write down the numbers. A friend of mine works in a
place where they take all the Credit Card carbons, chuck them in one
barrel. he then takes them out to the trash.. (or does he??)
Well, that just about covers methods of how to get Credit Card
Numbers. if you would like to try your luck with credit bureau's
then read the file, TRW information or other files which have to do
with credit bureaus. I am not going to go into detail about them.
[2] Explanation of Credit Card Numbers
You've got this garbage, but you don't know exactly what kind of card
it is or anything else. Well, to find out what kind of card it is
here is a brief summary of the number of digits and the information
you need to know to use the Credit Card's properly.
Mastercard
Digits-16
Expiration date-look for
something like 4/85
Usually has an Interbank number
that is 4 digits long
Name of person
Visa
Digits-13
Expiration date - same form as
above
Name of person
Visa Gold
Same as normal Visa but have 16
digits
American Express
Digits-15
Expiration date - these
have beginning and ending
expiration dates that you have
to know like- 10/83-7/85
Name of person
American Express Gold
Digits-20
Expiration date - same as normal
Name
Note-These cards have a 5000
dollars in them at least so
look for them
American Express Platinum
Digits-?
Expiration date - same ???
Has a 1,000,000 dollar limit i
think.
Many times people will post numbers that will "check" the credit card
for the amount of money that you type in. However, there are many
problems with this. The major one is that when you call the number
and type in that amount, it is subtracted from the card. In other
words, if you have a card that has 500 $ in it and you "check" it for
300 dollars and then try to use the card, there will only be 200
dollars in the account so it won't work. Now another idea that has
been suggested is to have just a small amount entered, just to check
to see if the card is valid. This will work, but make sure you enter
something like 50$, since validation of cards is not done usually on
orders that are under 50 dollars.
Here are some of the "voice validation numbers that I am talking
about. 1-800-842-1250.. Another one is 1-800-228-1111, when you get a
carrier, do #+5317007000220959+card number + the expiration date +
the amount of the purchase. The recording will tell you if it is
valid or not. However, there shouldn't even be a need to check on
them. As long as you get them from a somewhat rich place, and don't
use it for anything extravagant (A black Porsche, for instance), you
shouldn't have anything to worry about.
[3] Uses
Ok, the part everybody's been waiting for. You have that stupid
number in your hand but how do you use it? There are many ways to
use the numbers and I'll go through as many as I can right here.
An important thing to remember is - Never use a Credit Card Number
more that once. You can use the same Credit Card at the same time,
but don't use a Credit Card Number one month and then try to use it
again the next. The best time to use a Credit Card Numbers is at the
end of the month when the bills arrive. That means you have an
entire month to use the card.
OK, now for the uses. There are two kinds of uses that you can u use
a Credit Card for. Number one is "for yourself". You can use the
Credit Card to add to your computer, your home, or whatever else you
want to add to. The other type of use is revenge. You can use the
Credit Card either to get back at the person who owns the Credit
Card, or get back at other people which will be explained further
into the tutorial.
Mail order catalogs - Places that say that they will accept Credit
Card Number orders are great places to order from. However, a quick
inside tutorial is needed here. She is going to ask you for your
phone number to check you out. There are two ways to get around this.
Number 1 is to call from a pay phone in your town and wait until she
calls back. Wait about 15 minutes, if she doesn't call back by then,
she's not calling back. A note.. 50% of the time the lady will give
the number to shipping to validate. The guy will then call you the
next day. If you want to get around this tell the lady that you are
calling from out of state and won't be at this number tomorrow.
She'll probably fall for it. An extremely good way of using a pay
phone is to get the phone number of the Credit Card owner forwarded to
the phone booth. This can be a little difficult for the beginner
Credit Carder, though.
The second way is to find a good loop in your state and call the
other end and give her the first end. This is the best way there is.
Remember though, if you tell her that you live in Connecticut, but the
loop you give her is in Pennsylvania, and she notices, you will be in
trouble. Continuing on this thought, you need an address to which to
send your new found goods.
There are many different places to have the goods shipped to.
Remember, don't send it to your house!! Not very intelligent.
Because you're not going to send it to your house you must use a drop
zone. A drop zone is a house that's near one of your friend's house or
your house. The perfect drop zone has nobody living in it, and is
currently waiting for a buyer. Another perfect drop zone is a
neighbor who's going away to some place like England for a 3 month
vacation. The only problem with that is that the person might have
their mail held at the post office. However, U.P.S., which packages
are sent through, often doesn't listen, and just sends the sucker
anyway.
If you want to Credit Card and you can't find a good drop zone, don't
send it to a friend's house, just send it to an old ladies home,
who's too lazy to go out and get her mail. Just swing by the house
every day and check and see if the package arrived.
Okay, so you have your drop zone, you have a phone number to give the
"nice" lady, so now's the big moment. Give the place a call. Be
sure to sound as cool and collected as possible. If you hesitate a
lot and worry, the lady will become suspicious. Sound a little bit
annoyed at the lady, like you have better things to do, but be
polite. Then just order what you want, she will ask for the name of
the person, his Credit Card Number, his expiration date, and all the
other stuff I listed above. Don't be stupid and hesitate on the guys
name. It does not assure the lady that you are really John
Fredrickson or whoever. Remember, be cautious with what you buy. It is
possible to get hard drives, but they usually will check you out
more. If you want to get a joystick, but say, "what the hell, I might
as well go for a hard drive too..", buy the hard drive with one card
Number, and the joystick with another. That way, you'll at least get
the joystick.
Computer Shows - A lot of Computer shows have telephone lines set up
so they can demonstrate their modems. What you do then is to walk
around until you find one of these places and say.
"Excuse me, a friend of mine wants me to get me a 9600 baud modem and
a joysticks (more about the joystick later), but he can't get down to
the show. Can he call you and give you his credit card number. You
can then call him back and check him out"
It usually takes a while to find a sucker that will do this but when
you do. Have one of your friends call the number while you stand and
talk with the guy. Chat it up with this guy. When he asks for the
number, give him the number of the pay phone. Your friend will then
be called back upon which he will reply "Yep, I ordered it." Voila!
You now have a 9600 baud modem and two joysticks.
Important things to consider about this last method, if you do get
caught. Now I will explain why to get two joysticks, it doesn't have
to be two joysticks, it can be two microchips, it doesn't matter. If
you do get caught (it's never happened to anyone I know, but this is
a pre-caution), tell the cops that you were doing this since this guy
told you that he would give each of you a joystick with his credit
card number if you would go in. Say that he had no cash and couldn't
get into the show, and he left his credit card at home or something.
Remember, creativity in this situation may save the cat, not kill it.
Then, lead the cops outside and show them where you were supposed to
meet this guy and give it to him. He, obviously, won't be there so
you say, "Shit, he must have seen me with you and ran! I didn't know
I was doing anything wrong, he just wanted to get this modem really
badly but didn't have his credit card with him or any cash" Act
really stupid, because this really is a lame excuse.
If you find a really stupid looking salesmen, especially the foreign
ones (they wouldn't believe that anything like this would ever
happen) this method will work extremely well.
Destroying a person's credit - This is by far the easiest revenge
method of credit carding. Just call up one of those "voice
validation" or "credit card validation" numbers and type in the
Credit Card Number of a person that you hate, and then keep typing in
high amounts of money until all the money in his account has
disappeared. Then when he goes to buy something, all the money on his
Credit Card will have suddenly disappeared.
[4] Advanced Credit Carding
Ok, you've come this far. "What's next?" you ask. Well, the more
advanced thing to do and the best thing to do if you are successful
is to get a real plastic Credit card. If you steal one, go wild
with it the first day, since the person will probably call in and
report the card missing after a while. Make sure you have a copy of
the person's signature, a fake id, under his name, or anything else
useful. If your signature looks totally different than the signature
of the person, you will get nailed. Things to remember: Don't
get caught!! Act older than you probably are. The older you are, the
better chance of success you will have. Again, act casual about it.
Biting your fingernails is not a good sign of a good customer.
Another thing to do is to stay away from big places. I do know of
people, (not personally, A friend of mine works there and at least 4
people have been caught for doing this). Visit small stores and
small places. Sometimes you can take the stuff back and return it for
money. Don't use the Credit Cards at banks for cash unless you want
to get caught.
Another great advanced method is to get your own fake Credit Card
card. These are the best. Have the card shipped to a drop zone or
house, and once you get it, go wild. Use it at all the places which
don't check out your credit rating (there are a few stupid places
that don't).
You can also get fake Mervyn's cards, Sears card, or any other type
of money card if you work at it. Just be careful. Merchants are
supposed to detain illegal Credit Carders by peaceful methods. But if
a person is using a fake credit card, they're not going just say,
"Please come with me, unless you don't want to." If you're in a
small store, make a run for it. If you're in a big store, and the
clerk informs you that the card is invalid (If he thinks the
signature isn't right, he won't tell you, but if he watch to see if
he calls security) then just act huffy, grab your fake card angrily,
and walk out of the store in a huff.
ADDITIONAL CARDING ADVICE
Try not to fuck with well known computer companies. They're the ones
who have been around the block. Go for some unknown computer company
that might have a mailer at your local computer swapmeet. Secondly,
make your order as realistic as hell when you call. Ask about the
quality of what you are ordering, the value, when your package will
come, total price...tax, everything that comes in mind. Have your
info ready off the bat, if you stall, they won't take you seriously
and you'll never get your order. Like when they ask for your name,
don't go "uuhh...uhh...oh, Mark Lamedick" you have to know
everything straight and simple. Then tell Shipping that you are
currently moving right now, and you most likely wont be home in the
afternoons - mornings - early evenings. Last but not least, you's
better have your ass a good ass drop off point.
What works best is when someone is on vacation or an abandoned house.
Write a note on the door that says something like: "Dear UPS, I'm
currently moving right now, and I probably won't be home in the
afternoons for quite some time. I will be home in the evenings
probably after 7 pm. Could you please leave the package on the
doorstep, and I will pick it up when I come home, or could you stop
by after 7pm (They wont cause they never deliver after 6) Thank you
very much. Jane Cockhound... Okay...now go that evening...hound the
place every fucking day during the 7 - 10 working days that the
package is supposed to come. Get the package, and do with it what
you want. Only order in large bulk around Christmas time (like
ordering four 200 dollar Walkmans) Any other times, just make a
bunch of small orders.
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A U T O M A T I C T E L L E R F R A U D
Automatic Teller Fraud is not a particularly easy scam to pull off,
as it requires either advanced hacking techniques (TRW or banks) or
serious balls (trashing a private residence or outright breaking and
entering), but it can be well worth your while to the tune of $500
(five hundred) a day.
Laws that will be broken: Credit Fraud, Wire Fraud, Bank Fraud, Mail
Fraud, Theft Over $200, Forgery, and possibly a few others in the
course of setting the scheme up.
The first step is to target your victim. The type person you are
looking for is rich. Very rich.
Now, don't go trying to hit on J.P. Getty or Johnny Carson or someone
who carries a high name recognition. This will just get you into
trouble as everyone notices a famous person's name floating across
their desk.
Instead look for someone who owns a chain of hog feed stores or
something discreet like that. For example, target a gentleman who is
quite active in the silver market, owning several mines in South
Africa. Not wanting this to be widely known, he will avoid publicity.
Next step, take out a P.O. box in this person's name.
Now comes the fun part, requiring some recon on your part. You need
to know some fairly serious details about this person's bank
dealings.
1) Find out what bank he deals with mainly. This isn't too
difficult as a quick run through his office trash will usually let
you find deposit carbons, withdrawal receipts, or *anything* that has
the bank name on it.
2) Find out the account number(s) that he has at the bank. This can
usually be found on the above-mentioned receipts. If not, you can
get them in TRW (easier said than done) or you can con them out of a
hassled bank teller over the phone (Use your imagination. Talk
slowly and understandingly and give plausible excuses ["I work for
his car dealership, we need to do a transfer into his account"].)
2a) [optional] If you can, find out if he has an ATM (Automatic
Teller) card. You don't need to know numbers or anything, just if a
card exists. This can also be ascertained over the phone if you
cajole properly.
3) Armed with this information, go into action.
a) Obtain some nice (ivory quality) stationary. It doesn't have to
be engraved or anything, but a $5 or $10 investment to put a
letterhead with his initials or something on it couldn't hurt. But
the most important thing is that it look good.
b) Type a nice letter to the bank notifying them of your address
change. Some banks have forms you have to fill out for that sort of
thing, so you need to check with the bank first (anonymously, of
course). You will have to have a good copy of his signature on hand
to sign all forms and letters (again, trash his office).
c) Call the bank to verify the new address.
d) IMMEDIATELY upon verifying the change of address, send a second
letter. If he already has an ATM card, request a second card with
the business name engraved in it be sent for company use. If he
doesn't have an ATM card, the letter should request one for account
number xxxxxx. Ask for two cards, one with the wife's name, to add
authenticity.
e) Go to the bank and ask for a list of all ATM's on the
bank's network. Often the state has laws requiring *all* machines
take *all* cards, so you'll probably be in good shape.
f) Await the arrival of your new card. The PIN (personal
identification number) is included when they send out a card. After
picking up the card, forget that you ever even *knew* where the p.o.
box was, and make sure you didn't leave fingerprints.
g) Begin making the maximum daily withdrawal on the card (in most
cases $500/day), using a different machine each time. Since many of
these machines have cameras on them, wear a hat and jacket, or a ski
mask to be really paranoid. To cut the number of trips you have to
make in half, be at an ATM a few minutes before midnight. Make one
$500 withdrawal right before midnight, and another one right after.
This cuts down on the number of trips, but police or bank officials
may spot the pattern and start watching machines around midnight.
Use your own judgement.
Conclusion: Before using the card, make sure that all fingerprints
are wiped from it. Usually the first hint you will have that they
have caught on to your scam is that the machine will keep the card.
Also, avoid using machines in your own town unless it is a big city
(Chicago, Milwaukee, Dallas, etc...).
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F A K E I D S
The object of this article is to teach one to change his or her
current driver's license to make one 21, without taking apart the
drivers license itself. This will be taught to you in a quick,
inexpensive, easy to understand process. The materials used are
laminated sheets (easily obtainable from a school supply store for
around a dollar to two dollars for a number of sheets), pair of good
scissors, and a copy machine.
The first step in the process calls for the copy machine (a copy
machine at the supermarket works good). Make two copies of your
drivers license. Take one copy and search for a digit on one of the
copies that will change the current year on your license to one that
will change your age (21). Once you have found the digit on one copy
cut it out so just the digit is there (a square segment with a little
trim around the edges is a good cut). Then take the other copy and
cut out the current last digit of the year you were born in basically
the same shape as the last. Put the cut out digit under the copy that
you had cut out your current digit of the year you were born. Now
having a little trim around the cut out digit from the first copy
will assist you when lining it up under the second copy when you put
it in the copy machine. Now that you have the new digit from the
first copy sitting underneath but showing on the second copy place it
in the copy machine and make a copy so that you will have an original
of the new base part of the license.
Now since most copy machines are black and white you will have to cut
away the states license on the top of the license (e.g. Illinois
License). Now place the new base of the license with the cut away
license name over the old base of the current license. The new base
might not match up like it should but line it up as a good as
possible. Now place a piece of the laminated sheet cut out to
configure the license on top of the new base. Cut away any overlaps
of laminated paper and iron over the license with Mom's good old
iron.
Notes: This process has been proved to work. If you are the type of
person that looks very young then do not bother to make an ID. You
will just get caught and get into a lot of trouble. Also, be very
careful at well known bars and over 21 hang out spots. The employees
at these places tend to flash a flash light underneath the card to
see if it is transparent. It is supposed to be. With this process it
is a little hard to see through the ID so be careful with it if you
do go to a place such as this. If you are pulled over by the police
then take a corner of the license and rip. It will not affect your
original license though it maybe a little sticky but, that should not
be to big of a problem. If any bubbling occurs just iron over it and
let it sit for a while.
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ЪДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДї
і A N A R C H Y і
АДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДЩ
Anarchy is freedom. Unfortunatly, freedom doesn't really exist these
days so it's necessary to fight for it. Anarchy becomes the art of
fighting for rights, for justice, for a cause. It must be done well
or you will be captured and killed by the enemy, so be careful.
Some of these articles are written by people with different views
than mine, but they offer expertise that is important to your
survival. I do not endorse attacking innocent citizens. They must be
educated and brought over to the cause. But you may have your own
agenda.
Choose your path. Just remember, karma exists.
-The Spook-
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T E R R O R I S M
Written by: Jonin Meka of The Black Hand Society
Section One: The Essence of Terrorism
Welcome! In the following text I will attempt to explain to you the
way of Anarchy and how to be an Anarchist. One major section of
Anarchy is terrorism. Terrorism is to me the best thing ever to grace
man's path. Personally I love terrorism because, well, I really hate
strangers. Sometimes I'll decide to blow someone's car or house or
even the person all together just because they don't look right.
Terrorism defined as "mass-organized ruthlessness" and a terrorist is
defined as "one who rules by terror." Both of these descriptions are
fairly accurate but to me terrorism is the hatred of all good,
organization, love, and anything liked by normal morons who live in
our disgusting society we all call free! Therefore terrorism is the
destruction of society. I love that! To be a terrorist you must have
this attitude!
Don't read any farther unless you are a terrorist. Well, now the we
all have the understanding of terrorism we can begin. Note: you don't
have to kill to be a terrorist. Just be sure you love love to cause
terror!
Section Two: Simple Terrorism
Before I write anymore I must tell you I'm writing this article
because I wish to spread terroristic ideals. Also I wish to tell you
that Black Hand Society rules. Well, on with it. The following are
some of my own little goodies that I like to do once in a while. This
article does not explain how to make destruction devices or any of
that kind of stuff. That will be covered by others.
And finally one more thing; I find experimentation is best when
trying to terrorize someone or something. Here we go!
[1] SHOPLIFTING
Ahhh...my favorite. Here is the best and most economical way to
obtain anything you desire: Shoplifting! One note: this is highly
dangerous in these days of hidden cameras and microphones so be very
careful and if all else fails and you're caught but some stupid moron
of a "store-detective" just be sure to keep a cube of "potassium
chloride plastic explosives" with so you can light it while the moron
has you by the arm and is taking you wherever it is they take you
when your caught. Well on to some safety clauses. For one always be
silent while shoplifting as of the microphones (if any). Next always
look for two-way mirrors, black spots on any store walls, and most of
all people who stay in a store for more than an hour- They're Narcs !
And now for some advanced techniques. One I find to be fun is to
stuff my jacket then go up to the register and then buy something
small ! That really confuses the people. Another trick is to have
your friend buy something while you talk to him and at the same time
have a goodie right in your own hand then just walk out of the store
still talking with your friend. One last thing- bagging goods with
stuff you already bought is stupid unless the store doesn't give
receipts but what the f--k is you're good enough!
[2] ILLEGAL ENTRY
Another of my favorites. What is there really to say about illegal
entry except for it is a great way to attract attention to a
neighborhood. I mean with all the cops that come around the next day.
Also this is a great way to obtain valuable goodies like electronic
equipment. One thing never do this in your own neighborhood because
you won't be able to use the goodies you obtain.
Never break into a house with people in it if you are trying to
obtain goodies and also never break into a house with an alarm.
Always observe the area you're going to break into before entering
and look through the window next to the front door to see if they
have an alarm. There are several ways to break in: One is to lock
pick your way through but to the novice this may take time and years
of learning but one advantage is that it is real silent and
undetectable. Another way is to use the BB gun Ice pick method. First
bring your BB gun (pistol preferable) and shoot a small hole next to
the lock. Then use the Ice pick or some other device to undo the lock
on the window. Never leave anything of yours at the scene. Catalog
numbers and the like are traced quickly.
One final way to enter is to just crash the window with a stick. This
is really noisy but fun. If you want to do this the target window
should be next to another noisy place like a street or something.
Also don't spend to much time in the place after entering and most
off wear gloves and a black suit and always enter a night. One
more,thing I find it enjoyable to paint some type of remark or
sarcastic saying (real big of course) on one of the main walls. Such
an example would be a certain symbol like a pentagram or a saying
like "fuck off" (simple but suggestive) or to be creative "you have
bad taste in panties and curtains" or my favorite "pigs have little
dicks." Most of all be creative when signing you're little messages
usually I sign them by putting "You're worst dream" and "love, John".
You may find it wasteful to write such messages but personally I
think terrorism should be funny, sarcastic, and confusing. Two more
things: try not to leave any trace of yourself such as articles of
your clothing or even your blood (you might cut yourself if you break
the window). And if you consider yourself a common thief, DON'T! You
are an Anarchist and a Terrorist!
[3] ASSORTED FUN
Here are other simple things you might like to do:
A) Enter a place with people in it and sneak up them and then totally
surprise the fuck out of them while they're sleeping. You might do
this by screaming and hollering at the foot of their bed or by
setting their bedroom curtain on fire and then scream and holler at
the foot of their bed. Scream "Get out the house! There's a fucking
fire!" Just be sure these people don't have gunes and you have a
quick exit route. One way to be sure of this is case their house
ahead of time. If you find a gun near the bed, unload it or fuck up
the firing pin so it can't be fired. That way you have the drop on
them. In any event, this one is dangerous.
If the husband is away on business, you might decide to pretend to be
the husband and molest the wife while she's sleeping. Think of the
possibilities. Pretending to be the husband is my favorite
because....well I'm horny. I start off by gently massaging the
women's breast and then taking my other hand and venturing into
beaver land !
Another thing I find enjoyable is if the the women is alone in the
house I do the above but when she wakes up I simply knock her out
with the stick I used to break in with. If you plan to do this be
sure that as soon as she opens her eyes you give her a swift blow to
the head. Don't wait for her to scream for God's sake! Better yet, if
you have some, put a LIGHT dose of cloroform on a rag and make her
breath it. As soon as she passes out, take it away as it can kill
her. Another means of subduing a woman is fear. Pint a gun or knife
at her head while stuffing a rag in her mouth and make her submit. A
good method is to handcuff them before they wake up so they can't
fight you too easily.
After you have her subdued, fuck her to your heart's content. One more
thing if you're really horny I suggest you tie her up and then wait
for her to wake. Put a ball gag in her mouth, or improvise with a
rubber ball and some duct tape.
Tie her with her legs spread for maximum access. If you're into anal
sex, tie her face down. Just be sure she doesn't get a good look at
your face. Wear a stocking or pantyhose on your head or a ski mask.
Oh, and be sure to practice safe sex. Heh heh...
Note: I do not consider this rape! It is not! It is terrorist tension
relief. Also it was done under pleasant circumstances.
B) Letting the air out of people's car tires has always been fun but
I prefer to blow the tires up with impact explosives better. Also I
recommend blowing up the whole car. This is not only fun but it makes
great reading light. May I also suggest you do the above before you
read the rest of the manual. That way after you blow the car up you
can sit next to a great reading light and read some more of this
manual while the car burns. And finally one more thing- I love to
watch the people scurrying trying to put the car out. I mean if they
had any brains they would not it is impossible especially if you put
a buck of Napalm in their front seat. Also I suggest you paint the
ground surrounding the car with impact explosives. That way when the
car blows up (or just starts on fire) as soon as the people run to
the car and watch it burn they'll step on the dried explosives and
blow themselves up. Note: This is really cruel but what the hell!
You're a terrorist!
C) Lastly, suggest you...well fuck I'll let you create your own
little goodies for you to do. I've given you a start now go out and
experiment! Note: I have lots more but I don't want to give away all
my secrets.
Section Three: Destruction (and death as a result)
Many of you I suspect don't want to become murderers so I suggest you
don't read any further. It takes a great hatred to kill a human being
and I highly recommend you don't do it. Not only is it really evil
but you will have severe guilt trips and may even commit suicide as a
result. Personally I don't care anymore and could give a fuck about
everything, but occasionally I do regret all the things I've done.
Please don't read the rest of the artical unless for entertainment
purposes otherwise welcome to the world of Hell. (ha ha ha!)
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A S S A S S I N A T I O N T E C H N I Q U E S
Preface
-------
If you do indeed take the information provided in this article
seriously enough to do it, please forget where you read it.
Poisons:
--------
The first and probably least known way to maim(such a nice word)
someone is through the use of various herbal extracts..(no I don't
mean Sinsemella)
Diffenbachia (dumbcane)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Take 2-4 of the leaves and boil them in water (don't inhale the
fumes) When the water becomes a greenish color, take the leaves and
throw them away..Now take the liquid and add it to the victims
drink,food etc..The victims voice goes kaput.
Oleander.
=-=-=-=-=
Take a twig of this bush and grind it into a fine powder..Place the
powder in the salt shaker,or sub-stitute it for any other type of
seasoning...Causes death within 3-4 hours...sometimes quicker
Poison Oak/Ivy.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Take the leaves and do the above process..Or boil the leaves and when
the water turns brownish/green pour it out into a vial...Add a few
drops to the victims beverage.. It tends to destroy the victims vocal
cords...
Systemic roses.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Take a rose bush and soak the ground around it with a very poisonous
fertilizer..In the days following the roses leaves,stems,etc will
become highly deadly..When the victim gets scratched by it..He/she
dies..
Poisons Part 2
--------------
The second and more common poisons are that of deadly metals and
earthy extracts.
Sodium Arsenide.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
This along with Lead Arsenide rank in the top ten of lethal
materials Sodium Arsenide can be acquired at a glass staining shop..It
is placed into the victims food,etc.
Potassium Cyanide.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
This is chemical is contained in appleseeds..To get it you must grind
up about 12 oz of apple seeds ..The effect is close to radiation
poisoning...It kills within 6 hours
Curare.
=-=-=-=
This substance is basically a ba28rd poison..It is various poisons
combined into a lethal dosage..It kills within 45 minutes.
Lead.
=-=-=
Although this material is very common it is also very deadly..Take
about 30-40 grams of lead shavings(dust) and put them in someone's
food.. It does wonders....<ack!>
Mercury.
=-=-=-=-
Mercury is a highly deadly material that kills skin on contact...To
use most effectively,place about 20 grams wherever the victim might
place his hand or any other part of his body for that matter..Or
place it in his food supply...It to does wonders...<ack!>
Others (Unknown!)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Although it is impossible to list all of the deadly substances here I
will show how to make contact poison...
(credit to Ima Hacker) take 3 no-fly pest strips (tm) place them in a
jar of turpentine overnight..In the morning scoop out the white/brown
gel at the bottom.
it kills in 60 seconds..Count 'em
(again credit must go to Ima Hacker)
Highway Accidents???
--------------------
The following section describes various was to seriously harm the
occupant by destroying the victims car...
Explosions
=-=-=-=-=-
Take a film canister filled with liquid drano and drop it into the
gas tank...Do this just before your target enters his car...When he's
driving down the freeway or any other part of the HTS his car will
suddenly become engulfed in flame.
Carbon Monoxide (CO)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Drill a small hole into the exhaust system of the victims car..From
it run a length of tubing into the passenger compartment..After 20
minutes he will fall onto the floor and most probably die when he
hits something.
Stuck Accelerator
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Find the victim's throttle cable and cut it..now follow the piece
coming out of the manifold..Now supposing you found where it
intersects the valve...There should be a small spring there that
keeps the valve closed...Cut it...push the valve open....clean
up...When Mr. Victim starts his car the engine will race. when he
shifts he should fly out of control down the roadway..until <KERASH>
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EFFECTIVE NECK-BREAKING TECHNIQUES
*Crossneck*
This method will only work if you are much taller (1 1/2 - 2 feet)
than your target, or the target is sitting down (guards, teachers,
etc.)
Approach the target from the behind SLOWLY as not to startle, then
place your left arm around the neck, and the right arm across the
neck (over the left) and grab your upper-left arm with your right
arm. Move the right arm upward sharply, and the left arm left firmly
around the neck. Pop the neck out of the spinal cord, and separate
the head from the rest of the body. The neck should be quite
twistable now. Damage the spinal cord, so the victim has little/no
hope for survival. Don't even think about whipping out a knife.
This method is for killing without leaving a single mark.
*Throat demolition*
When using this technique, be sure to rid your conscience of any
regrets while attempting this. You will be staring your victim eye-
to-eye, and you don't want to cower out. Your victim will have a
scared-shitless look of "Why me?" They will look so innocent, it
might make you chicken out. Check out "The Cypher's guide to the
elimination of the conscience" if you have these problems. It could
mean the difference between life and death...
Creep up to your mark while they are leaning over (reading, loading
gun, etc.) Stare down at what they're doing by their RIGHT side, then
place the left arm around the neck from the underside. In other
words, extend the right arm under their chin, then reach back around
to the back of the head. Grab the neck tightly, place your shoulder
on their chest, flip them over onto the table or floor, then punch
them AS HARD AS YOU CAN right in the throat.
I'm not sadistic (yeah, sure, you say,) and I am somewhat of an
animal lover, but a good way to practice this technique is with pigs.
Go down to any forestry project, and then find out where some of the
pigs are... This will not be too hand to do. Just look for severe
underbrush. Wait, and they will come. Ambush from behind, and the
pigs neck is yours. Im not sure if this kind of hunting is legal
(bare hands) but it is essential for proper exercises in the art of
the elimination of the conscience.
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EXPLOSIONS: Effective demolition.
We will be using this brand of Pipe Bomb in most all of our
elimination exploits:
One 1 foot length of pipe (threaded)
two caps for the ends of the pipe.
one baby-food jar
about a baby-food jar full worth of vinegar
baking soda
some gravel
To construct the pipe bomb:
1. Cap one end of the pipe with a metal cap TIGHTLY!
2. Fill the baby-food jar with vinegar, cover, AND WIPE CLEAN!
3. Drop the baby-food jar into the pipe lightly as not to break, and
add some gravel.
4. Pour baking soda to the rim into the pipe bomb.
5. Cap the other end very tightly.
Synopsis:
Once you crack the pipe hard enough to break the baby food jar, it
will cause the baking soda to create such pressure, that it will
explode. The explosion is more than effective. Rumor has it that
when it was thrown into an old car, it blew the doors about ten feet
away, and the roof three feet into the air. When this device was
constructed by myself, I just stuck it under an old tree, and it was
removed. You have about five minutes to wait, so you might still have
time to acquire a quick alibi.
USING THE PIPE/PRESSURE BOMB
Someone you hate? Well, creep out of your house REAL LATE at night
(3-4:00) and walk up to their house. Crack it to start on the
driveway, and throw under the car. Run home, then read the police
reports. Once you have been better acquainted with device, it can be
used to help you out. Throw it under the stage of a play, or leave
it in the bathroom of your school, etc.
MOLOTOV COCKTAILS IMPROVED
Well, the original Molotov cocktail was used differently.. Its not
REALLY improved, but its better this way. Molotov created this
weapon in the Russian revolution (give them a taste of their own
medicine) and the formula was 50% gasoline, alcohol, and 50% oil.
With the oil, it sticks to what it hits. Much more effective...
MODIFYING MOST SEMI-AUTOMATICS
Whats this B.S. about spending $3000 for a full-auto kit? All we did
was file down the firing pin, and it worked almost perfectly. File
down the part by the springs that rubs against the tracks, so it is
free. This works best with a good-old M-16, or most HK rifles.
SURVIVALIST PYROTECHNICS
It is almost imperative for the modern-day snow camper to carry
around a bit of gasoline (I know, only the shitbaits do that, but the
wind gets pretty rough out there) with you. Once that much has been
done, you are ready for the Survivalist's bomb: in other files, the
GENERIC BOMB. This bomb is infamous among bulletin boards, but
because it suits this method better, I call it the survivalist's bomb.
1 jar, pipe, etc. few drops of gasoline. a few drops of potassium
permanganate found in most all snakebite kits
I. Put in a few drops of gas into the jar, pipe, etc... and coat
the surface inside.
II. Once the gas has evaporated, put in a few drops of Pot.
Permangate, and close the jar shut.
Throw the jar at your target, or the truck under you, or into the
crowd at the mardi-gras and be far away. This bomb will pack 1/2
stick of standard GCM dynamite. Handy, indeed.
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Miscellaneous Nasties
By: Lex Luthor
FIREBOMBS
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original
Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part
gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it
splatters on.
Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have
been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
NAPALM
About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency,
like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings.
Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is
either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do.
The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual
way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-
quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and
the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there
is no flame.
Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and
allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess
is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to
fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its
heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double
boiler.
MATCH HEAD BOMB
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a
devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse
A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to
prevent detonation by contact with the metal.
Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for
one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away
from the TV.
FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury.
It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can.
The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use
this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse
has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it
breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
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P Y R O M A N I A C T E C H N I Q U E S
IMPACT GRENADES
1] MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSE-HOLD AMMONIA
2] WAIT OVERNIGHT
3] POUR OFF THE LIQUID
4] LET THE 'MUD' ON THE BOTTOM DRY... (IT'S LIKE CONCRETE)
5] THROW IT AT SOMETHING!!!
SMOKE BOMBS
1] MIX : 3 PARTS SUGAR TO 6 PARTS EPSON SALTS
2] PUT IT IN A TINCAN (COFFEE CAN WILL DO)
3] HEAT IT OVER LOW FLAME (LIKE A CIGARETTE LIGHTER)
4] LET GEL AND HARDEN
5] PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE.
6] LIGHT IT AND RUN LIKE HELL........(4 POUNDS OF THE STUFF WILL FILL
A CITY
BLOCK WITH THICK WHITE SMOKE
MEDIUM-GRADE EXPLOSIVES
1] MIX : 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE
1 PART VASELINE
2] TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE.
CAR BOMB
1] PUT LIQUID DRANO INTO A PRESCRIPTION BOTTLE (THE SMALL BROWN PILL
BOTTLES)
2] CLOSE THE LID AND POP IT INTO THE GAS TANK (OR A BOTTLE OF
GASOLINE IF YOU
WANT TO MAKE A SIMPLE TIME-BOMB)
3] WAIT 5 MINUTES.....
4] RUN LIKE HELL
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES
1] MIX : 2 PARTS VASELINE 1 PART GASOLINE
2] IGNITE IT WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE.
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L O C K P I C K I N G
SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE
JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD
BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED
LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF
YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE.
THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB"
TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT
DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING THE OTHER FORMS OF
ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT
FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM
TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE.
IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE.
IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU
CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.)
THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD
BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END
OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK
SOMETHING LIKE THIS:
#1
\\
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\s\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE
\\\ THAT WAS ALREADY
\\\ HERE.)
\\\
\\\
\\\
NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1)
UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL
OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT
SMOOTHLY.
NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR
IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE
ABOVE THE OTHER ? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR
GONNA OPEN IT.
IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE
INTERIOR OF A LOCK:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K
# # # # # # | E
# # # # | Y
* * | sH
* * * * * * | O
| L
| E
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
#= UPPER TUMLER PIN
*= LOWER TUMLER PIN
X= CYLINDER WALL
(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)
THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPAcE BETWEEN THE
UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF
YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDENCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS
WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.
INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL KEEP
THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE BACK OF
THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH.....
THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR
WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY
TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL
QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.
THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF
YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET
THE SYSOP KNOW.
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How to Make a Land mine
by
Merlin and Black knight
First you need to get a push button switch... take the wires of it
and connect one to a 9 volt battery connector and the other to a
solar igniter (if you can't get that then use a thin piece of stereo
wire).
Connect the other wire of the 9 volt connector to to the other end of
the solar igniter (stereo wire).
Now... connect the end of a fuse (of a pipe bomb, M80, whatever has a
fuse) to the solar igniter...
Dig a hole... not to deep but enough to cover all the materials.
Think about what direction your enemy will coming from and plant the
switch, but leave the button visible (not to visible). Plant the
explosive about 3 feet from the switch because there will be a delay
in the explosion. And when your enemy steps on it...
B O O M ! ! !
-------------------
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H I G H W A Y R A D A R J A M M I N G
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will arm
themselves with an expensive radar detector. However this device
will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the radar signal
is not present until the cop has you car in his sights and pull the
trigger. Then it is too late to slow down.
A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar signal
of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local
cop and found that his unit reads random numbers when your car
approached him. It is surprisingly easy to make a low power radar
transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called a Gunn diode will
generate microwaves when supplied with 5 to 10 vdc and enclosed in
the correct size cavity (resonator). An 8 to 3 terminal regulator can
be used to get this voltage from a car's system. However the correct
construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult without good
microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on
the K band at 22 ghz. or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz.
Most microwave intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over
automatic doors in supermarkets, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 milliwatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you can't
get one locally write to Microwave Associates in Burlington, Mass.
and ask for info on "Gunnplexers" for ham radio use. When you get
the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on the dash or in a
weatherproof enclosure behind the plastic grille. Switch on the
power when on the open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the
side of behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap.
An interesting phenomena you will notice is that drivers in front of
you who are using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach
large metal signs or bridges. Your signal is bouncing off these
objects and triggering their detectors.
Have fun... Cryton
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FIREWORKS
OK, SO YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN FIREWORKS? NOTE: ALL
THE AMOUNTS GIVEN IN THESE DIRECTIONS ARE IN PARTS BY WEIGHT. DO NOT
USE PARTS BY VOLUME (LIKE TEASPOONS OR SOMETHING), OR ELSE YOU COULD
HAVE A SERIOUS PROBLEM. ALWAYS MIX THESE CHEMICALS BY SHAKING THEM ON
A SHEET OF PAPER OR SOMETHING. IF YOU GRIND THEM, STIR THEM, ETC.
THEY COULD EXPLODE IN YOUR FACE!(AFTER ALL, I DON'T WANT YOU TO KILL
YOURSELF WHILE DOING THIS!)
FUSE:
1. DISSOLVE AS MUCH POTASSIUM NITRATE AS YOU CAN IN ABOUT A PINT OF
WATER AT ROOM TEMPERATURE.
2. SOAK 5-6 INCH PIECES OF STRING OR PAPER IN THIS SOLUTION AND LET
THEM DRY.
3. LIGHT THE FIREWORKS WITH THE STRING OR A PIECE OF PAPER ROLLED
INTO A TIGHT TUBE.
FLASH POWDER:
1. MIX: 1 PARTS POWDERED MAGNESIUM METAL and 4 PARTS POWDERED POTASSIUM
NITRATE.
2. IGNITE WITH A VERY LONG FUSE. THIS STUFF EXPLODES WITH A HUGE
WHITE FLASH, AND MAY BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO SCREW UP YOUR EYES IF YOU
LOOK STRAIGHT AT IT.
"SNAKES":
1. MIX: 5 PARTS POTASSIUM NITRATE
10 PARTS POTASSIUM DICHROMATE
5 PARTS REGULAR SUGAR
2. MIX THESE POWDERS WITH ENOUGH MUCILAGE OF ACACIA (THAT GOOEY
BROWN GLUE YOU CAN GET AT A DRUGSTORE) SO THAT YOU CAN MOLD THEM INTO
CONES ABOUT 1/2 AN INCH HIGH.
3. WHEN DRY, LIGHT THE TIPS OF THE CONES WITH A MATCH.
FOUNTAIN #1:
1. MIX: 1 PART POWDERED MAGNESIUM METAL
1 PART POWDERED IRON METAL
1 PART POWDERED ZINC METAL
1 PART ANTIMONY SULFIDE
1 PART POWDERED CHARCOAL
1 PART POWDERED SULFUR
1 PART LYCOPODIUM POWDER
1 PART POWDERED SUGAR
1 PART POTASSIUM NITRATE
2. COAT A CARDBOARD TUBE AND PLUG THE BOTTOM WITH PLASTER OF PARIS
(THIS IS SO IT WON'T BURN).
3. FILL THE TUBE WITH THE MIXTURE, INSERT A FUSE, AND LIGHT IT.
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NASTY TRAPS
Traps are the vital part of any assassin's strategy. So if you are
going to be a dealer of death you must learn the art of trap
building..
All traps don't have to kill, the following traps are made to wound
the victim and make the kill easier...
Trap #1-Foot trap
-----------------
You will need the following items:
1) 8-10 bungi sticks about 7 inches long each. [Note]: Bungi sticks
are just sticks that have one end sharpened to a point. I you want
to get fancy 1-1/2 inch dowel works great!
2) A shovel
3) A victim
First off pick a spot where the victim will walk that is soft ground
or dirt. Then proceed to dig a hole about 2-3 feet deep and about 2
feet in diameter. Once the hole is dug take the bungi sticks and line
the hole with them so that they are pointing downward at an angle
like this:
hole wall--> !\ <--bungi stick--> /! <--hole wall
!\ /!
!---------------------!
Cover the hole to match the ground cover (use twigs and leaves with
dirt or whatever matches on top) and find a nice hiding spot. When
the victim steps into the hole the stakes will do nothing to him but
maybe snag his pants, but when he tries to remove his foot he will be
going against the stake and they will drive into his ankle...
[P.S.]-For a nice touch you could also put the stakes on the hole
floor...
Trap #2-Light Bulb Trap
-----------------------
To make this trap work you must have access inside the victim's house
and it helps if you don't like them very much. To start get a bottle
of ammonia, and put some in a sealable container that it won't eat
through. Next, acquire a medical syringe. Go to the house of the
victim and get into a room by yourself. Go to the nearest lamp or
light fixture that has a light bulb in it and remove the light bulb.
Make sure the lamp or socket is turned OFF.
Fill the syringe with the ammonia and make a small puncture in the
light bulb. It may sound impossible but it's actually pretty easy.
Once you have the ammonia touching the filament in the light bulb
stop injecting and replace the bulb. Leave the room and try and stay
out of there until the light is turned on. When it is turned on the
red hot filament and the ammonia do all sorts of fun stuff!!....
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BLASTING GELIGNITE
To try and tell you about the potency and danger of this stuff, I
want you to know that one time some friends of mine and I (Disk
Slasher, Romper Stomper) were very careful and made some of this
stuff. After it was made, we were scared as shit of it and carried it
on a ten foot pole. (literally!) Near to my house there is a club
that has a Coke machine outside. So we went over there at about 3 in
the morning and stuck this stuff all over the Coke Machine and set it
off. The whole Coke Machine damn near split in two (well anyway the
front door was blown off) and the Cokes and money came spilling out
We helped ourselves to both and got the hell out of there which was
good because the police and fire department were there in about 15
minutes because all the people around that the blast had waken up had
called them because they thought there was a fire or something. So if
you make this stuff (Which we don't endorse you doing) BE CAREFUL!
The Recipe:
Note: None of these items are too hard to get but you damn well
better not think that this stuff is not powerful because of that. if
you think that, you had better get prepared to lose part of your
body.
Further Note: A step marked with a star '*' should be done behind a
blast shield of some kind. We used a big sheet of plexiglas.
Stuff you need
1) 50 parts water
2) 20 parts sugar (provides oxygen)
3) 1 part baking soda 4) 5 parts Corn Flakes (I'm not kidding,
this is VITAL as a stabilizing agent)
5) 30 parts Charcoal (Very finely ground Fish tank charcoal- No
Barbecue charcoal)
6) 10 parts Sulphur (You can sometimes get this at grocery stores
[especially Kroger] in the drug section)
7) 30 parts Saltpetre (You can also get this at grocery stores
sometimes. Kroger is the only one I know of but there might be others.
get it in the drug section.)
8) A Jar of Vaseline
The Actions...
1) Get a deep metal pan to cook over the stove on and put the water
in it. Stir in the sugar until it all dissolves. if you can't get all
of the sugar to dissolve, add more water until all of the sugar has
dissolved. Now stir in the baking soda until it dissolves. if you
can't get all of the baking soda to dissolve, don't worry about it,
just leave it.
2) Heat the pan over a medium flame (You don't need to stir) until it
begins to boil. Now stir in the corn flakes until they are all in
water and the whole thing begins to look like hot breakfast cereal.
let the mixture sit on the burner until it begins to boil again.
(This could be a long time or it could be a very short time depending
on the water and the elevation, etc.)
3) As soon as the mixture begins to boil, stir it constantly until it
is a sludgy mass that is sort of half solid and half liquid.
4) Now dump this mixture out onto a greased cookie pan (so it doesn't
stick) It should be just solid enough to almost stay in a lump. Now
mix in the Charcoal and the Sulphur. If it gets really gritty, don't
worry. Just mix it together as well as you can. Now stick in the oven
at 150 degrees. Make sure that is 150 degrees. if it is much higher,
this stuff will burn up in your oven and take your whole house with
it. Constantly monitor the pan until all of the sludge is baked dry
and has no wetness in it at all.
* 5) Get the pan out of the oven when it is ready and put it in the
refrigerator or let it cool down by itself (The refrigerator is
faster). Now take it out of the pan and pound it into dust. This
might need to be done behind a blast shield because even though I
have heard that it can't blow up or burn up if it is cool at this
stage, When I pounded up my batch I made some sparks and so I got a
blast shield just in case.
* 6) When you have the dust. put it in a tupperware or something like
that and put it, the saltpetre, and the vaseline in the fridge until
they are all cold. This definitely needs to be done behind a blast
shield as this is the part where it gets very unstable. Get a cooler
and fill it with ice and put an open container in the ice but don't
let ice get in the container. Mix all of the dust and saltpetre
together. Get a big glob of vaseline and get it nice and soft and
quickly mix as much of the dust into it as you can. If the mixture
get above about 35 degrees Celcius, it will blow up so try to not
keep it in your hands too long (I definitely advise wearing gloves to
keep your hands from heating the mixture.) When you have mixed all of
the dust possible into the lump of vaseline, drop it into the
container in the cooler and get some more vaseline and make a new
lump. When all of the dust is gone, close the container and put it in
the fridge. When you want it to blow up (And it will blow up big!)
just get it hot. We did both by sticking firecrackers in it and
lighting them and running like hell (Very Dangerous!) and by model
rocket ignition system model rocket igniters which we stuck in the
stuff.
If you are crazy and stupid enough to do this, then watch out! it is
a good way to hurt yourself.
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Car Fun
BY: System Crusher
Ok you real sick bastards so your so called friend screwed you right
so do we get mad??? Of course not JUST EVEN!! Now say he just got a
car or has a good one as it is gee let's see what fun we can have
with it:
FLAME THROWER
=============
Take a cup of gas and poor it down the exhaust pipe when the dude
starts it **POOF** he has a 30 foot flame thrower Now that doesn't do
anything that's just to make the guy shit in his pants.
PRETTY DESIGNS
==============
Ok now take his windshield wiper and attach some tacks to it Gee what
pretty designs they leave on the car window when he turns then on.
lets see:
POTATO TRICK
============
Just take your average potato and stuff it in someone's exhaust
pipe.The car wont start if there somewhere else they will have to get
it towed.If there stupid they will have to ask a mechanic Ok they
will probably have to go to a mechanic and ask to get it out boy wont
they ever look stupid! and cost them $$$$$ or a pain in the ass to do
it themselves..
Nitro triodide
==============
I saw a message on this its the ammonia and iodine mixture well you
take the shit and smear it on the tire treads and when he pulls out
**BOOM**.
-=>System Crusher<=-
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CHEMICAL IGNITERS FROM THE BOOK:
THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON
CHEMICAL DELAY IGNITERS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN POPULAR WITH THE MORE
VERSATILE MILITANTS. THE MOST COMMON SUCH IGNITER IS THE SULFURIC
ACID-POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND SUGAR GOODY.
THE IGNITER IS A MIXTURE OF HALF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND HALF
GRANULATED SUGAR. IT BURSTS INTO FLAME WITH THE APPLICATION OF A DROP
OF SULFURIC ACID.
THE IDEA IS TO PUT SOME OF THE MIXTURE INTO A GLASS OR PLASTIC TUBE
AND THEN STUFF IN SOME COTTON, OR PAPER. SOME ACID IS THEN PUT INTO
THE TUBE WITH A MEDICINE DROPPER, BOUGHT AT A DRUG OR HOBBY STORE.
THE ACID IS SUPPOSED TO SEEP SLOWLY THROUGH THE BARRIER AND FINALLY
IGNITE THE MIXTURE. THE BAD THING ABOUT THIS SYSTEM IS THAT IT OFTEN
DOESN'T WORK OR IT WORKS TOO FAST.
WHEN SULFURIC ACID EATS THROUGH VEGETABLE MATTER THERE IS A REACTION
OF GREAT HEAT. THIS IS OFTEN ENOUGH TO BREAK THE GLASS TUBINGOR MELT
A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW AND CAN STOP THE ACTION RIGHT THERE.
IF THE GLASS TUBING HOLDS, THE ACID STILL LOSES ITS POTENCY AS IT
REACTS WITH THE VEGETABLE MATTER AND THAT WHICH REACHES THE MIXTURE
MAY BE TOO WEAK.
THE WORST THING THAT CAN HAPPEN, HOWEVER, IS THAT IT WILL WORK TOO
FAST. THE ACID CAN EAT THROUGH THE BARRIER IN SECONDS INSTEAD OF THE
MINUTES YOU THINK YOU HAVE.
THIS COULD BE DISASTROUS IF YOU LOITERED IN THE AREA FOR A MINUTE TO
AVOID LOOKING SUSPICIOUS. IF YOU ARMED THE DEVICE BEFORE GOING INTO
THE TARGET AREA, YOU MIGHT NOT EVEN GET THERE.
TO AVOID SUCH HANGUPS YOU SHOULD USE A NON-REACTIVE BARRIER SUCH AS
ASBESTOS FIBERS, BOUGHT FROM ANY BUILDING SUPPLY STORE. THE ACID WILL
SEEP THROUGH THE ASBESTOS FIBERS, MAKING HEAT AND WITH-OUT LOSING ITS
POTENCY. AND SINCE IT DOESN'T EAT THE ASBESTOS, IT CAN BE TIMED WITH
MUCH MORE CERTAINTY, WHICH MAKES IT SAFER AND MORE SURE.
POWDERED HIGHWAY6 FLARE IGNITER CAN BE SUBSTITUTED FOR THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE-SUGAR MIXTURE. IT IS OVER HALF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND IS
SIMPLER. IN FACT, IF THE PLASTIC STRAW IS PUSHED OVER A FUSE COATED
WITH FLARE IGNITER, THE FUSE NEEDS NO OTHER IGNITE R.
ANOTHER CHEMICAL IGNITION DEVICE USES GLYCERINE TO REACT WITH
POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS A RELATIVELY STABLE
OXYGENATOR AND CAN EASILY BE BOUGHT AT THE DRUG STORE. IT IS ALSO
USED FOR STAINING MICROSCOPE SPECIMENS, DISINFECTING FISH TANKS.
THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS GROUND TO A POWDER AND MIXED WITH THE
SAME AMOUNT OF FUSE POWDER AND MIXED WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF FUSE
POWDER OR THE HIGHWAY FLARE IGNITER. COTTON CAN BE USED AS A BARRIER
AS IT DOESN'T REACT WITH GLYCERINE.
AT LEAST AN INCH OF GLYCERINE IS PUT INTO THE TUBE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU
USE A BARRIER. WHEN IT REACHES THE MIXTURE IT TAKES FROM THREE TO
FIVE MINUTES FOR THE IGNITION TO TAKE PLACE.
IF THE IGNITER IS POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND SUGAR OR FLARE IGNITER OR
POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, IT NEEDS A BARRIER TO KEEP IT IN PLACE. TO
MAKE SURE THE FIRE TRAIN BURNS PAST THE BARRIER TO THE FUSE, THE
BARRIER SHOULD BE FLAMMABLE. TO MAKE MATERIAL FOR THIS BARRIER, MIX
COTTON WITH WET FUSE POWDER OR FLARE IGNITER. THEN DRY IT AND PULL
OFF PINCHES AS NEEDED.
TO ARM THESE DEVICES A MEDICINE DROPPER FILLED WITH ACID OR GLYCERINE
CAN BE CARRIED UP-ENDED IN A TEST TUBE IN THE SHIRT POCKET. A PLASTIC
FELT-TIP MARKER WITH A CLIP TO HOLD IT UPRIGHT IN THE POCKET CAN BE
USED INSTEAD OF THE TEST TUBE. IT IS SIMPLY HOLLOWED OUT AND THE
DROPPER FITS IN NICELY.
TO AVOID BURNED FINGERS, A STRING IS TIED TO THE DROPPER SO IT CAN BE
PULLED OUT OF THE CONTAINER.
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The Chemist's Corner Article #1: Explosives By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG
This article deals with the instructions for creating some dangerous
explosives. If you intend to make any of these explosives, do so in
SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, as they are all dangerous and could seriously
injure or kill you if done in larger amounts. If you don't know
anything about chemistry, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I am not joking
in giving this warning. Unless you have a death wish, you shouldn't
try any of the following unless you have had prior experience with
chemicals.
I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using
this information. It is provided for use by people knowledge in
chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely
handle such experiments.
I. Common "weak" explosives.
A. Gunpowder:
75% Potassium Nitrate
15% Charcoal
10% Sulfur
The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (separately!) with
a mortar and pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns
fiercely, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the
released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like
this: the potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which
then burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases
released.
B. Ammonal:
Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with
aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the %
composition for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using
small amounts.
C. Chemically ignited explosives:
1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar
(sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of
magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it.
What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the
potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on
formation, burning the sugar as well.
2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works
very well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name
'MPG Volcanite' (tm). Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium
perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium
nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some
coloring agent. (scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals,
yellow= sodium chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...).
3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it.
Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust.
When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms
nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat.
The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the
ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It
also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning.
Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams
Ammonium choride: 1 gram
Zinc dust: 8 grams
Iodine crystals: 1 gram
4. Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-
colored flame in 30 secs-1 min. Works best if the potassium
permanganate is finely ground.
5. Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable
gas used in blow torches...)
II. Thermite reaction.
The Thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten
iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous
reactions that I talked about to START it!
Starter=potassium chlorate + sugar
Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer)
Put the potassium chlorate + sugar around and on top of the main pt.
To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
on top of the starter mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts
iron (III) oxide to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium
chlorate to 1 part sugar. When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g!
Also, there is an alternative starter for the Thermite reaction. The
alternative is potassium permanganate + glycerine. Amounts: 55g iron
(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate, 6ml
glycerine.
III. Nitrogen-containing high explosives.
A. Mercury(II) Fulminate
To produce Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive,
one might assume that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to
mercury. This is somewhat difficult since Fulminic acid is very
unstable and cannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out
a way to make it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid
to 2 parts alcohol to 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not
yet tried it) so please, if you try this, do it in very small amounts
and tell me the results.
B. Nitrogen Triiodide
Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive
explosive. Never store it and be careful when you're around it-
sound, air movements, and other tiny things could set it off.
Materials-
2-3g Iodine
15ml concentrated ammonia
8 sheets filter paper
50ml beaker
feather mounted on a two meter pole
ear plugs
tape
spatula
stirring rod
Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand
for 5 minutes.
DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES!
Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the
brown solid...). Scape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a
stack of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts,
putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in
position, leave to dry undisturbed for AT LEAST 30 minutes
(preferably longer). To detonate, touch with feather. (WEAR EAR
PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!)
C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)
Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that-
it does not give off smoke when it burns.
Materials-
70ml concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml concentrated nitric acid
5g absorbent cotton
250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate
250ml beaker
ice bath
tongs
paper towels
Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml
nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each
piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3
successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then
immerse in 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water
once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper
towels to dry overnight.
IV. Other stuff
A. Peroxyacetone
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been reported to be
shock sensitive.
Materials-
4ml Acetone
4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid
150mm test tube
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add
4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white
solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test
tube in a water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue
for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter
paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied
to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away).
B. Smoke smoke smoke...
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since
this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if
necessary for larger amounts of smoke.
6g zinc powder
1g sulfur powder
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
be created.
There are many other experiments I could have included, but I will
save them for the next Chemist's Corner article. Upcoming articles
will include Glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things
you can do with household chemicals, and more...
I would like to give credit to a book by Shakashari entitled
"Chemical Demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of
chemicals in some experiments.
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HOME MADE CHEMICAL EXPERIMENTS
This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting
experiment with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work
depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different
areas and brands. I would suggest that the person doing these
experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more
dangerous experiments.
I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using
this information. It is provided for use by people knowledge in
chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely
handle such experiments.
I. A list of household chemicals and their composition
Vinegar: 3-5% acetic acid
Baking soda: sodium bicarbonate
Drain cleaners: sodium hydroxide
Sani-flush: 75% sodium bisulfate
Ammonia water: ammonium hydroxide
Citrus fruit: citric acid
Table salt: sodium chloride
Sugar: sucrose
Milk of Magnesia- magnesium hydroxide
Tincture of iodine- 47% alcohol, 4% iodine
Rubbing alcohol- 70 or 99% (depends on brand) isopropyl alcohol (DO NOT
DRINK!) etc...
[1] Generating chlorine gas
Dangerous! You should know what you're doing before you try this...
Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'DO NOT mix with chlorine
bleach, and vice-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with
Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture
it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some
ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air,
it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either
Ajax or ammonia (DON'T!). For something fun to do with chlorine stay
tuned....
[2] Chlorine + turpentine
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it
into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke
and probably start burning...
[3] Generating hydrogen gas
To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will
react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum,
magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note
that it is lighter than air... Light a small amount and it burns with
a small *pop*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the
electrolysis of water. This involves separating water (H2O) into
hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-
12 volt battery, two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes
(take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt.
Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two
test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the
mouth of the tube a iming down. Connect the battery to some wire
going down to the electrodes. This s will work for a while, but
chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will
undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon
electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium
ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts
with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). Therefore, if you can
get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not
affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity.
[4] Hydrogen + chlorine
Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb.
Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one
that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop
it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and
possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An
interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and
no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough
energy is present to cause them to react...
[5] Preparation of oxygen
Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide
(from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and
they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build
up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when
only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into
flame. Experiment with it. The oxygen will allow things to burn
better...
[6] Alcohol
Buy some rubbing alcohol in a drug store. Usually this is either 70%
or 99% alcohol and burns just great. You can soak a towel in water
and then in alcohol, light the towel, and when it finishes burning
the alcohol, the flame should g o out and leave the towel unharmed.
Nice for "party tricks", etc.
[7] Iodine
Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To
separate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle
and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid
directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on
top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should
sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid
directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the
iodine along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodide
(discussed in article #1).
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CONTACT EXPLOSIVES
PETROLEUM JELLY AND POTASSIUM CHLORATE IN A 1 TO 1 RATIO BY WEIGHT
MAKES A TOTALLY SAFE WHEN WET COMPOUND BUT IS HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE AND
SHOCK SENSITIVE WHEN DRY.
3 GRAMS OF POTASSIUM IODIDE 5 GRAMS OF IODINE IN A BEAKER WITH 50ML
OF WATER MIXED ALL TOGETHER. ADD 20ML OF AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE (AMMONIA
WATER 10%) FILTER AND THE RESULTING SOLID IS CALLED NITROGEN
TRIIODIDE. WHEN WET IS VERY SAFE BUT UPON DRYING BECOMES VERY
EXPLOSIVE AND SHOCK SENSITIVE, TO THE POINT OF A FEATHER SETTING IT
OFF.
TO SET OFF THE ABOVE EXPLOSIVES ALL YOU REALLY NEED TO DO IS PUT SOME
OF THE MIXTURE ON OR IN SOMETHING AND THEN DROP IT SORT OF LIKE AN
IMPACT BOMB. IT EXPLODES ON IMPACT WITH ANOTHER OBJECTS
[-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-]
HERE IS A MIXTURE FOR GREAT SMOKE BOMBS 4 PARTS OF SUGAR TO 6 PARTS
POTASSIUM NITRATE (SALT PETER). HEAT OVER LOW FLAME UNTIL IT MELTS,
STIR WELL. POUR IT INTO FUTURE CONTAINER. BEFORE IT SOLIDIFIES, IMBED
A FEW MATCHES AS FUSES INTO THE MIXTURE. ONE LB. FILLS A BLOCK
NICELY WITH THICK WHITE SMOKE.
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ELECTRONIC TERRORISM
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting
your anger boil.
Step 2: In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit
(details below.)
Step 3: Plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 AM and 6:00 AM. Include a calm,
suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another
attack. DO NOT WRITE IT BY HAND! An example of an effective note:
"Don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand.
Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear, as if
written by a homicidal psycho.
Step 5: Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site.
Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial
contortions.
Step 6: Sit back and enjoy the fireworks!
Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective Terrorist Kit #1:
The parts you'll need are:
1) 4 AA Batteries
2) 1 9-Volt Battery
3) 1 SPDT Mini Relay (Radio Shack)
4) 1 Rocket Engine(Smoke Bomb or M-80)
5) 1 Solar Ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-Volt Battery connector
Step 1: Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's
coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held
together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt
circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the close position
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in succession. Wire
the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one
negative terminal. Even though the four AA batteries only combine to
create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the
solar ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of
it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the
solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back
to the open position on the relay.
Step 4: Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or M-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I --- (9 VOLT)
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)
So-o-o-o
You would like to delve into the art of harassing,pestering,annoying
and possibly harming another enemy!!!
Ok-here you'll learn some of the useful methods I've used! For the
squeamish!
ITEM 1-
To torment a person, always start off easy and slowly increase the
severity of your attack until your goal is accomplished! This will
give you an example of r attack letting them know that you're not
done with them yet!
ITEM 2-
To start your revenge, mail anonymous letters and call at all hours!
ITEM 3-
Call the papers-place ads in their name (1964 Chevy Impala-$600)will
get every mexican gang member in L.A. to call and visit their address
if you put it in the ad. Advertise something illegal in their name,
then call the cops and show them!
Call long distance under their phone # and order candy and flowers from
Western Union under their number. Order magazine subscriptions, books
records, everything you!
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HOW TO MAKE A FLASHLIGHT BOMB
A FLASHLIGHT BOMB IS FAIRLY EASY IT MAKE AND CAN BE CONCEALED SO
WELL, THEY IT IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO DETECT IT. HERE'S WHAT TO DO:
GET YOURSELF ONE FLASHLIGHT OF ANY SIZE, SHAPE, OR CREED, AND THE
BATTERY/BATTERIES THAT GO ALONG WITH IT. NOW IT IS TIME FOR AN
IMPORTANT DECISION. DEPENDING UPON THE TYPE OF BOMB YOU REQUIRE, YOU
HAVE TO MAKE A CHOICE IN MATERIALS. HERE ARE YOUR CHOICES:
[1] MERCURIC CHLORIDE - GAS BOMB
[2] PURE SODIUM+WATER - FLAME BOMB
[3] SULFURIC NITRATE - ACID BOMB
[4] GUNPOWDER (TNT) - BOOOOOOOOM!
NOW, TAKING THE MATERIAL FOR THE TYPE OF BOMB YOU WOULD LIKE TO MAKE,
PROCEED TO PUT ROCKS, BB'S, GLASS PELLETS, ETC... IN THE BOTTOM OF A
HOLLOWED OUT BATTERY/BATTERIES, UNLESS YOU ARE MAKING A FLAME BOMB,
WHICH IN THAT CASE READ ON. THEN LINE A MAGNESIUM STRIP ALONG THE
SIDE OF THE FLASHLIGHT APPEARING ON TOP OF THE FLASHLIGHT SO YOU MAY
LIGHT IT. NEXT, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF THE EXPLOSIVE YOU CHOSE
IN THE BATTERY. [ NOT YOU MAY LIGHTLY PACK IT IN, BUT DO NOT HIT
IT!!! MY FRIEND WAS PACKING A HOME-MADE BOMB ONE DAY, AND HAMMERED
THE COVER ON, AND BLEW A HOLE RIGHT THROUGH HIS LIQUOR CABINET ]
NEXT, SECURE THE TOP, LEAVING ROOM TO INSERT THE MAGNESIUM STRIP. IT
SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS:
-----------
\ /
\ /
\_____/
! BMB !
! BMB !
! BMB !
! BBB !
! !
!_____!
IN THE LAST DIAGRAM, (B) STANDS FOR BATTERY AND (M) FOR MAGNESIUM.
ALSO INSIDE THE BATTERY SHOULD BE THE AMMO AND THE EXPLOSIVE.
NOW FOR THE FLAME BOMB...THE SODIUM, SHOULD BE ON THE TOP, AND THE
WATER IN A BABY FOOD JAR. THE SODIUM USED HERE IS NOT TABLE SALT!!!
YOU WON'T NEED THE MAG. STRIP BECAUSE NUMBER 1, BECAUSE ALL YOU NEED
DO IS HIT THE FLASHLIGHT AGAINST SOMETHING HARD. DO NOT HOLD IT---
THROW IT AS FAR AS YOU CAN!!!
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EXPLOSIVE PENS
Here are the instructions for building a device no agent should be
without. From the mind of "Q" himself, a device for your evaluation.
Materials......
[1]-(1) "Felt" Tip Pen
[2]-(1) "Ball" Point Pen
[3]-(1) High quality firecracker!
[4]-(1) 8 gram measure potassium parmagranite (optional)
[5]-(x) Scotch Tape
[6]-(1) Large Paper Clip
[7]-(2) Packages of matches
[8]-(1) Pair of scissors
[9]-(1) Length of Beige thread
Assembly......
[1]- Use thread to friction saw the felt tip pen in half at the point
where the cap "snaps" onto the pen. (about mid-section)
[2]- Remove the inert of the felt tip pen, and throw them away.
[3]- Pull the inert out of a bic ball point pen and remove the ball
point assembly at the front of the pen.
[4]- Use scissors to widen the hole in the "felt" end of the pen.
Insert the ball assembly and make sure it is a tight fit. It should
now look as if the felt tip pen was constructed as a ball point pen.
[5]- Cut off abrasive strips from the packs of matches. It is best
if they have not been used. Tape these to the top of the firecracker
near the fuse, the strips should run parallel to the outstretched
fuse.
Wrap fuse over the top of one strip and tape down so fuse runs
parallel to abrasive strips.
[6]- Unbend paper clip and tape a match to the metal rod, the match
should be parallel to the rod and it should be taped tight using as
little tape as possible.
[7]- Insert the match head 1/5 of the way between the abrasive strips
and wrap tape around the assembly. It should now look like this.
------______-----
[][][]a[][][]-----------------(b)
(())---------------------
______------_____ |(c)
|(d)
(a)-Explosive/(b)-Fuse/(c)-Match attached to metal rod/(d)-Abrasives
The entire assembly should be thin enough to slip into the case of
the felt tip pen.
[8]- Using scissors drill a small hole in the "non-tip" end of the
felt tip pen case. Insert the assembly so the metal rod fits through
the hole in the end of the pen case.
[9]- The assembly will not quite fit properly. The firecracker will
protrude from the cut half of the felt tip case. Slip the removed
end of the case over the firecracker. (join the halves together over
the firecracker in the center) and mount the cap of the felt tip pen
on the end of the metal rod. Glue any loose parts. You are done!
To Detonate...
Simply hit the cap (mounted at end of pen permanently) and throw it
at your target, or hand it to your target. My favorite is to say
"Think Fast" and throw them your felt tip pen. (make it a easy throw)
Your victim will catch it, and it will then explode. Cutting off many
small appendages if you coat the firecracker with potassium parmagranite.
Or killing your target if you use contact poison in place of the potassium.
Theory of operation...
Quite simple, by hitting the cap you are ramming the match head at
the end of the metal rod between the tight abrasive strips causing
combustion. Or the "Orgasm" effect. (the term Axis Agents use!) The
fire lights the fuse and from there, the pen is history! (pardon the
pun). After hitting the cap you have a average time limit of 2.5
seconds to rid yourself of the pen. (plenty of time actually...)
Edited by : Quasimoto
So, you want to learn about some explosives, eh sonny? Well, you have
come to the right place. Starting with this file, a series begins
that will try to bring that world of demolitions and fun ( ha ha ) a
little closer to you. This series, ingeniously dubbed the "Explosive
Files" will go through the many types of explosives around. In
addition, a few sidetracks will be made on the way in the areas of
fireworks or whatever seems appropriate. As you delve through what is
contained in the files, you may find some helpful information, you
may not. But have fun reading them anyway.
If you haven't figured this one out yet, this file is formatted for
80 columns. And the rest of the files are the same way. So, using a
quote I saw once on a file on a board,
" Use your damn printers people !!! "
And now on with the show.
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EXPLOSIVES
To start learning about explosives, you have got to start at
the beginning. I plan to be as thorough as possible, but I may forget
things every now and then. The files should still be complete though.
So now to start at the beginning......
An explosive is a substance that, under the influence of heat,
shock, or some other agency, undergoes a chemical reaction that
causes it to decompose or break up quickly with more or less violence
( whew ). Explosives fly to pieces because the materials composing
them react in such a way that solids or liquids are suddenly
converted into gases, which tend to expand and rapidly fill a larger
volume of space. Heat is also developed and acts as a catalyst (
something that changes the speed of the reaction in some way. In this
case it speeds it up. ). The noise associated with an explosion is
caused by air waves. An explosion is an intensified combustion also.
The history of explosives is too long for one file, but
certain events are covered in individual files. For instance,
gunpowder's history is in the gunpowder file.
Lets narrow the scope a little here and get a little introduction
into explosives. How they are classified is a good thing to know, so
here it is.
There are basically 3 different types of explosives existing.
All explosives fall into one of these categories somewhere. What
follows is a listing of each of these categories with a brief
description and some examples.
I. Propellants
Propellants, or low explosives, are combustible materials, containing
within themselves all oxygen needed for their combustion. They burn
themselves out but do not explode, and function by producing gas
which explodes.
Examples are Black powder and smokeless powder.
II. Primary Explosives
Primary Explosives, or initiators as they are sometimes
called , explode or detonate when they are heated or subjected
to shock. They do not burn and sometimes they do not even contain the
elements necessary for combustion. The materials themselves explode,
and the explosion results whether they are confined or not. Their
brillance, or the shock which they produce when they explode, differs
considerably in different explosives, as does their sensitivity to
heat and the amount of heat they give off.
Examples : Mercury Fulminate, Lead Azide, Fulminating Gold,
the mixture of Red Phosphorus with Potassium Chlorate, Copper
Acetylide, Nitrogen Sulfide, and Tetracene.
III. High Explosives
High Explosives detonate under the influence of the shock
of the explosion of a suitable primary explosive. They do not
function by burning. Most of them can be ignited by a flame though
and in a small amount generally burn tranquilly and can be
extinguished easily. If heated to a high temperature by external heat
or by their own combustion, they will sometimes explode. They are
generally more brilliant and powerful than primary explosives. They
exert a mechanical effect on whatever is near them when they explode,
whether they are confined or not.
Examples : Dynamite, Trinitrotoluene, Tetryl, Picric Acid,
Nitrocellulose, Nitroglycerin, Liqiud Oxygen mixed with wood pulp,
fuming Nitric Acid mixed with Nitrobenzene, Ammonium Nitrate ,
Ammonium Perchlorate, and Nitroguanidine.
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IGNITERS
A small but major part of any explosive is how to ignite it. Some
materials, like gunpowder, will ignite quickly when in contact with
flame. But some explosives will not light by just a flame and hence
they require some thing with some more power, maybe even another
explosive. What follows is a list of your basic igniters.
BLACK MATCH
Black match is made with fine, soft cotton twine and meal powder. It
is easily made by twisting 3 or 4 strands of the twine together and
covering the resulting cord with a paste made by mixing the meal
powder with water. The excess paste should be wiped off and the cord
should be allowed to dry while stretched across a frame. A slower
match can be made by twisting the twine and using a homemade black
powder as the paste. This powder is made by mixing 6 parts Potassium
nitrate, 1 part sulfur, and 1 part soft wood charcoal. This match and
slight derivations are used on nearly ever firework available. Its
cheap, reliable if made right, and easy.
QUICK MATCH
Quick match is black match inserted into a paper tube which does not
need to fit tightly. When light, the black match burns through the
tube at a extremely quick rate.
MINERS FUSE
Miners Fuse is also called Safety Fuse or Bickford Fuse. It consists
of a central thread surrounded by a core of black powder enclosed
within a tube of woven threads, which is then surrounded by
waterproof materials, etc. It commonly burns at the rate of 1 foot a
minute. When the fire reaches the end, a jet of flame about 1 inch
long shoots out for the purpose of igniting black powder or lighting
a blasting cap.
DETONATING FUSE
Detonating Fuse, or Cordeau, is a narrow tube filled with high
explosive. When the explosion is initiated at one end by a detonator,
the explosion travels along the tube with a high velocity which
causes other high explosives in its path to explode. In America,
cordeau is made from lead tubes filled with TNT, from aluminum or tin
tubes filled with Picric Acid, and from tubes of woven fabric filled
with Nitrocellulose or PETN (yes, that's Pentaerythrite
Tetranitrate).
BLASTING CAPS
Instead of making a whole separate file out of blasting caps, my
first intention, I will just put the stuff here.
Blasting caps were invented in 1867 by Alfred Nobel, who also first
made Nitroglycerin, invented dynamite and blasting gelatin, and
provided funding to start the Nobel prizes. What a cool dude. There
exist 3 different kinds of blasting caps, varying from a simple fuse
wrapped by explosive to a complicated waterproof cap involving an
electrical detonation. . There is also 8 grades, or strengths of
caps, denoted by numbers ( No. 1, No. 6, etc. ). Usually the
strength is marked on the cap.
SIDE NOTE : Electrically ignited caps are the most common type
available. If you live anywhere near a quarry, try to get a tour of
the place. Watch wherever you walk. blasting caps abound in areas
like this. When nobody's looking, pocket a few.
What follows is a generally useless chart, but here it is anyway. It
shows a little about the strengths of each cap type ( see another
file about mercury fulminate ).
Weight of Mercury External
Fulminate Dimensions
::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::
grams diameter,mm length,mm
::::: ::::::::::: :::::::::
No. 1 .30 5.5 16
No. 2 .40 5.5 22
No. 3 .54 5.5 26
No. 4 .65 6 28
No. 5 .80 6 30-32
No. 6 1.00 6 35
No. 7 1.50 6 40-45
No. 8 2.00 6-7 50-55
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PRIMARY HIGH EXPLOSIVE
* Flash Point *
Here we are with a list of primary high explosives. It's not much,
but there are not many of them. There are many more secondary high
and low explosives ( see the next two files ).
Mercury Fulminate
:::::::::::::::::
Mercury Fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as
white or gray crystals. It is extremely sensitive to initiation by
heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It will detonate when
initiated by any of the ways. When stored continuously at
temperatures above 100 degrees F it gradually becomes inert. A dark-
colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this condition.
Mercury Fulminate is commonly stored underwater except in places
where freezing is possible. Then it is stored under a mixture of
water and alcohol.
Lead Styphnate
:::: :::::::::
Lead Styphnate is an initiating explosive, usually appearing in
orange or white crystals. It is easily ignited by heat and static
discharge, but cannot be used to start secondary high explosive
reliably. Lead Styphnate is an ingredient in priming mixtures for
small arms ammunition. Lead Styphnate is stored underwater except
where freezing is possible. Then it stored under water and alcohol.
Lead Azide
:::: :::::
Lead Azide is an initiating explosive produced as a white to buff
crystalline substance. It is more reliable than Mercury Fulminate and
it does not decompose during long storage at moderately elevated
temperatures ( 90 and above ). It should not be loaded into copper or
brass containers because Copper Azide, an extremely sensitive
explosive, can be formed in the presence of moisture.
DDNP
Diazodinitrophenol
::::::::::::::::::
DDNP is a primary high explosive. It is used extensively in
commercial blasting caps that are initiated by black powder safety
fuse. It is superior to Mercury Fulminate in stability but is not as
stable as Lead Azide. DDNP is desensitized by immersion in water.
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SECONDARY HIGH EXPLOSIVES
This section is a rather complete listing of secondary high
explosives. They are listed in no particular order and they all have
a bit of information about them again, just like the primary high
explosives. I think that this is probably the best file in the whole
group so have fun.
TNT
TRINITROLOLUENE
:::::::::::::::
TNT is produced from Toluene, Sulfuric acid, and Nitric acid. It is
powerful high explosive. It is well suited for steel cutting,
concrete breaching, general demolition, and underwater demolition.
It is a stable explosive and relatively insensitive to shock. It may
be detonated by a blasting cap or primacord. TNT is toxic and its
dust should not be inhaled or allowed contact with the skin.
NITROSTARCH
:::::::::::
Nitrostarch is composed of Starch Nitrate, Barium Nitrate, and Sodium
Nitrate. It is more sensitive to flame, friction, and shock than TNT
but not as powerful. It is initiated by detonating cord.
TETRYL
::::::
Tetryl is a fine, yellow crystalline material and exhibits a very
high shattering power. It is commonly used as a booster in explosive
trains. It is stable in storage. It is used in detonators.
RDX
CYCLONITE
:::::::::
RDX is a white crystalline solid that exhibits very high shattering
power. It is commonly used as a booster in explosive trains or as a
main bursting charge. It is stable in storage.
NITROGLYCERIN
:::::::::::::
Nitroglycerin is manufactured by treating Glycerin with a nitrating
mixture of Nitric Acid and Sulfuric acid. It is thick, clear to
yellow-brownish, and extremely powerful and shock sensitive.
Nitroglycerin freezes at 56 degrees fahrenheit in which state it is
less sensitive to shock than in liquid form.
COMMERCIAL DYNAMITE
:::::::::::::::::::
Commercial dynamite comes in three principal types.
Straight dynamite, Ammonia dynamite, and Gelatin dynamite. Each type
is further divided into a series of grades. All dynamites contain
Nitroglycerin in varying amounts and the strength of the explosion is
related to the Nitroglycerin content. Dynamite ranges in detonation
velocity from 4000 to 23,000 feet per second and is sensitive to
shock. Dynamite is initiated by electric or nonelectric blasting
caps.
PETN
PENTAERYTHRITE TETRANITRATE
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::
PETN is one of the most powerful of military explosives and
is almost equal in force to nitroglycerine and RDX. When used
in detonating cord, it has a detonation velocity of 21,000
f.p.s. and is relatively insensitive to friction and shock from
handling and transportation.
MILITARY DYNAMITE
:::::::::::::::::
Military ( construction ) dynamite, unlike other commercial
dynamite, does not absorb or retain moisture, contains no
nitroglycerine, and is much safer to store, handle, and transport. It
detonates at a velocity of about 20,000 feet per second and is good
for military construction, quarrying, or demolition. It may be
detonated with an electric or nonelectric military blasting cap or
detonating cord.
AMATOL
::::::
Amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture
of Ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly
higher than TNT alone. Amatol is used a main bursting charge in
artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form
dangerous compounds with copper and brass.
BLASTING GELATIN
::::::::::::::::
Blasting gelatin is a translucent material of an elastic,
jellylike texture and is made in a number of different colors. It is
considered to be the most powerful industrial explosive. It is more
water resistant than Gelatin dynamite.
COMPOSITION C4
::::::::::::::
Composition C4 is a white plastic explosive more powerful
than TNT. It consists of 91% RDX and 9% plastic binder. It remains
plastic over a wide range of temperatures (-70 F. to 170 F. ), and is
as sensitive as TNT. It is eroded less than other plastic explosives
when immersed is water for long periods. It is well suited for
cutting steel and timber and breaching concrete.
COMPOSITION B
:::::::::::::
Composition B is a high explosive mixture with a relative
effectiveness higher than that of of TNT. It is also more sensitive
that TNT. It is composed of 59% RDX, 40% TNT, and 1% wax. Because of
its shattering power and high rate of detonation, Composition B is
used as the main charge in certain bangalore torpedoes and shaped
charges.
AMMONIUM NITRATE
::::::::::::::::
Ammonium Nitrate is a white crystalline substance that is extremely
water absorbent and is therefor usually packed in a sealed metal
container. It has a low velocity of detonation ( 3600 f.p.s ) and is
used primarily as an additive to other explosives. It is only 55% as
powerful as TNT.
HMX
:::
HMX is a solid high explosive commonly used as a booster and
sometimes as a main charge where its shattering effect is needed. It
is a white substance with a rather high melting point; hence it is
usually pressed into its container. It may be initiated by Lead azide
or Mercury fulminate.
PENTOLITE
:::::::::
Pentolite is a high explosive made from equal mixtures of
PETN and TNT. It is light yellow and is used as the main
bursting charge in grenades, small shells, and shaped charges.
Pentolite should not be drilled to produce cavities; forming tools
should be used.
PICRIC ACID
:::::::::::
Picric Acid is a yellow crystalline, high explosive bursting charge.
it is initiated by Lead azide or Mercury fulminate and has the same
effectiveness as TNT. When in contact with lead, Picric acid produces
Lead Picrate, a sensitive and violent explosive.
GUN COTTON
::::::::::
Gun cotton is a nitrocellulose explosive made from cotton fibers
containing 13% or more of nitrogen. Although primarily considered a
propellant, it is sometimes used as a base charge in electric
detonators.
AMMONAL
:::::::
Ammonal is a high explosive mixture composed of 22% Ammonium nitrate,
67% TNT, and 11% flaked or powdered aluminum. It is sometimes used as
a filler for artillery shell. The composition is 83% as effective as
TNT and explodes with a bright flash upon detonation.
IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Plastic explosive filler can be made from Potassium Chlorate and
petroleum jelly. The Potassium chlorate crystals are ground into a
very fine powder and then mixed with the petroleum jelly. This
explosive can be detonated with a No. 8 commercial blasting cap or
with any military blasting cap. The explosive must be stored in a
waterproof container until ready to use.
TETRYTOL
::::::::
Tetrytol is a high explosive bursting charge containing 75% Tetryl
and 25% TNT. It is used as a demolitions explosive, a bursting charge
for mines, and in artillery shells. It is about as strong as TNT.
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G U N P O W D E R
Probably the most common explosive you will ever encounter in your
travels is gunpowder. It is nearly everywhere. Most every firework
will use gunpowder. It is the easiest to make, and the cheapest of
all the explosive. How about a little bit of history here...
Gunpowder is the oldest of all the known explosives. It's invention
is credited to the Chinese, the Arabs, and the Hindus, but the first
one to publish anything definite on it was friar Roger Bacon of
Oxford in 1242. He wrote a book telling how to make an explosive
mixture containing saltpeter. For this reason Roger Bacon is
sometimes considered the inventor of gunpowder.
Berthold Schwartz, a monk, also played his part in gunpowders history
by helping to develop firearms using gunpowders properties. By 1326
cannons were being used.
Certainly gunpowder helped change the course of the world. It has
been used in things such as warfare to mechanical assistance.
By the way, Saltpeter is Potassium Nitrate ( KNO3 ). Also,
doesn't it seem a bit funny that most of the people involved in the
history of explosives were religious people?
The modern gunpowder is commonly called Black Powder, but is made in
about the same way as its ancestors. Saltpeter, charcoal, and sulphur
are mechanically mixed into a fix powder. The rate of ignition
depends on the grain size ; the smaller the grains, the faster it
burns. The exact proportions of each material can vary, and each
mixture is a little different. But the most effective powder has been
found to be in the ratio of 6 parts Saltpeter, 1 part charcoal, and 1
part sulphur. Here are a few other mixtures though for your
enjoyment.
DATE SALTPETER CHARCOAL SULFUR
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
8th century 66 22 12
8th century 70 23 7
Roger Bacon 37 32 31
1560 50 33 17
1781 75 15 10
1635 75 12.5 12.5
Brown powder, also called cocoa powder, was discovered and it was
found that it could be used as a replacement for normal black
charcoal. Brown powder is slower burning than its brother and was
used extensively in guns before smokeless powder was developed. Cocoa
powder is more sensitive to friction than ordinary black powder.
Samples have ignited when shaking in canvas bags. As before, here are
some exciting different formulas.
Saltpeter Brown Charcoal Sulphur
<*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*>
79 18 3
78 19 3
80 20 0
There are a few more variations of gunpowder existing too,
so check out the next file for a listing.
A common myth about gunpowder is that it explodes. This is
wrong ( I know a few people out there are saying I'm full of shit,
right ? Well, it's the truth ). To really understand what happens it
is necessary to know a little about chemistry. I'll try to explain it
to the average person now.
The formula for saltpeter is KNO3 ( Potassium nitrate ). If you don't
know yet, the O stands for an oxygen atom, and there are 3 of them.
The 3 is supposed to be sub-scripted by the way, so just imagine that
it is. This means that in the gunpowder mixture, there is a whole
bunch of oxygen atoms. Well, pure oxygen burns. But how does it break
out of the KNO3 ? The oxygen is attracted to the sulphur and
charcoal, but is bonded to the nitrogen ( N ) and can't get away
normally. When it is lit, the ignition breaks the N-O bonds and in an
instantaneous moment solid and gaseous products are formed. What ends
up happening is that the gases cause the explosion. Its is really
more complicated than that, but I would take a good 50 sectors going
into detail. For a better understanding of this, pick up an
encyclopedia or ask your chemistry teacher.
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Other Powders
Explosives file #6 by Flashpoint
They couldn't let black powder get all lonesome by being the only
worthwhile powder useful in explosives, so somebody invented a few
more. Some of these are better than black powder, some worse, some
more expensive, some more convenient. But they are all powders.
BLASTING POWDER
Since normal black powder burns rather quickly when mixed well, a
slower and cheaper powder is needed for blasting. A powder of this
type can be obtained by reducing the amount of Potassium Nitrate. The
French government has manufactured and sold the following kinds of
blasting powder.
SALTPETER CHARCOAL SULFUR
::::::::: :::::::: ::::::
72 15 13
40 30 30
62 18 20
In the United States, most blasting powder is made from Sodium
nitrate. Some samples taken show the following ratios.
SODIUM NITRATE CHARCOAL SULFUR
:::::::::::::: :::::::: ::::::
68 10 22
73 11 16
Pellet powders, made from Sodium Nitrate, are becoming popular. They
are cylindrical pellets, 2 inches long, wrapped in paraffined paper
cartridges, and are from 1 and 1/4 to 2 inches in diameter. The
pellets resemble cartridges of dynamite. From 2 to 4 pellets whilse
are perforated in the direction of their axis are wrapped in the
cartridges and a 3/8 hole is bored for insertion of fuse for firing.
The pellets are also sold in most hardware stores for use in welding
torches under names like Solid OX pellets and generally cost about $
8.00 for a can of 7 or 8 sticks. You can buy these pellets and grind
them up for a good source of Sodium Nitrate powder. It makes a hell
of a black powder.
II. AMMONPULVER
Propellant powder made from Ammonium nitrate is about as powerful as
smokeless powder and has long had a limited use for military uses,
especially in Germany and Austria.
In 1855, a powder was patented called Amidpulver. Later the formula
was improved, giving the powder a flashless discharge when fired in a
gun and only a moderate amount of smoke. Ammonpulver which contains
no Potassium nitrate explodes with no flash and little smoke.
AMMONIUM POTASSIUM
NITRATE NITRATE CHARCOAL
:::::::::: ::::::::::: ::::::::::
Amidpulver 38 44 16
improved Amidpulver 37 14 49
other formula 85 - 15
Ammonpulver has the advantages of being cheap, powerful, flashless,
and almost smokeless. It is insensitive to shock and friction, and is
more difficult to ignite than black powder. In use it requires a
strong igniter charge.
III. POWDER BRUGERE
Powder Brugere is made by grinding together the following composition
Ammonium nitrate 54 parts
Potassium nitrate 46 parts
The powder is pressed and granulated as in the making of black
powder. It is more powerful than black powder and gives less smoke.
FRENCH AMMONAL
French Ammonal is an easily improvised low explosive mixture of 86%
Ammonium nitrate, 6% Stearic acid, and 8% Aluminum powder. It is
generally less effective than and equal weight of TNT. Initiation by a
Engineer's special blasting cap is recommended.
!>Flash Point<!
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BUILDING A FLAME THROWER FROM THE BOOK:
THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON
AN EXCELLENT LITTLE FLAME THROWER CAN BE MADE, USING JUST ABOUT ANY
METAL OR PLASTIC HAND SQUIRTER. THE ONLY CONSIDERATION IS THAT THE
LIQUID MUST COME OUT IN A STREAM INSTEAD OF AN ATOMIZED SPRAY.
SOME OIL CANS SHOOT A STREAM 30 FEETS. SPRAYERS CAN OFTEN BE ADJUSTED
FROM A SPRAY TO A STREAM. SPRAYERS OF VARIOUS KINDS CAN BE FOUND IN
AUTO SUPPLY, GARDEN AND GROCERY STORES.
A SIX-INCH TUBE, USUALLY ALUMINUM OR BRASS, IS FITTEN ON THE NOZZLE.
A WICK OR PIECE OF HEAVY CLOTH IS WIRED ONTO THE OTHER END OF THE
TUBE. THE FUEL IS GASOLINE, ACETONE OR LIGHTER FLUID.
TO USE, THE TUBE IS TILTED DOWNWARD SLIGHTLY. THE SPRAYER IS SQUEEZED
SLOWLY SO THE FUEL WILL DRIBBLE OUT AND SATURATE THE WICK ALL AROUND.
THE WICK IS THEN LIT AND THE DEVICE IS AIMED AND SQUEEZED. QUICK,
HARD SQUEEZES WILL SQUIRT THE FUEL THROUGH THE TUBE AND PAST THE
BURNING WICK. THE WICK IGNITES THE FUEL AND YOU HAVE SUCH A DANDY
WEAPON YOU WILL NEVER STOP BRAGGING! IF YOU HAVE A LITTLE BROTHER, HE
CAN TAKE IT TO SCHOOL FOR SHOW AND TELL.
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FULL-AUTO: AN INTRODUCTION
BY: THE ANGEL OF DESTINY
INTRODUCTION
SO YOU WANT TO BE A TERRORIST? YOU LIKE MAKING HOME-MADE CHEMICAL
CAR BOMBS, AND MAKING PEOPLE SUFFER, THAT'S NEAT. BUT I CAN TELL YOU
FOR SURE THAT NO SELF-RESPECTING TERRORIST WOULD GO OUT INTO THE
CRUEL WORLD ALL BY HIS LONESOME WITHOUT A PIECE OF PROTECTION. I AM
OF COURSE TALKING ABOUT SUBMACHINE-GUNS AND ASSAULT RIFLES. THERE ARE
TIMES WHEN YOU JUST NEED TO HAVE THAT FULL-AUTO PROTECTION. WELL, I
WILL TRY TO BEGIN TO INFORM YOU ON THE WAYS OF GETTING A FULL-AUTO
FIREARM. THERE ARE BASICALLY TWO: LEGAL and ILLEGAL.
LEGAL
THERE ARE A FEW WAYS OF GOING ABOUT IT LEGALLY. IN ALL CASES
YOU NEED APPROVAL FROM THE BATF (BUREAU OF ALCOHOL, TOBACCO, AND
FIREARMS). APPROVAL INVOLVES SENDING A LETTER TO THE BATF TELLING
THEM WHERE YOU LIVE, AND WHY YOU WANT TO OWN A FULL-AUTO FIREARM.
WHEN YOU WRITE THIS PORTION OF THE LETTER, IT WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA
NOT TO TELL THEM YOU WANT TO BLOW DUDES AWAY WITH IT BECAUSE YOU MOST
PROBABLY WOULD NOT GET APPROVAL. ONCE YOU GET APPROVAL, YOU MUST PAY
A $200 TRANSFER TAX. THE BIG MYTH THAT GOES AROUND IS THAT FULL-AUTO
WEAPONS ARE THEMSELVES EXPENSIVE, THAT'S NOT TRUE, THEY COST JUST AS
MUCH AS THEIR SEMI-AUTO COUNTERPARTS. THE BIG THING THAT MAKES LEGAL
FULL-AUTOS COST SO MUCH IS THE TAX.
STEPS.
EVERYTHING YOU DO GOES IN STEPS, AND IT'S THE SAME WITH GETTING A
FULL-AUTO. HERE THEY ARE...
1. CHOOSE THE GUN YOU WANT. YOU GET FULL-AUTOS FROM CLASS /// GUN
DEALERS.
2. ADD UP ALL THE COSTS FOR THE RIFLE OR SMG AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE
ENOUGH BUCKS TO PAY FOR IT.
3. IF YOU ARE UNDER 21 YEARS OF AGE, GET PARENTS PERMISSION TO
REGISTER THE GUN IN HIS/HERS NAME. THEN PUT HIS/HER NAME ON THE
LETTER TO THE BATF.
4. SAVE THE GUN AT THE CLASS /// DEALERSHIP. ASK OWNER FOR HELP IN
GETTING BATF'S APPROVAL, THEY CAN TELL YOU ALL ABOUT IT, MORE THAN I
CAN HERE, AND GET ALL THE FORMS YOU NEED. REMEMBER, THE DEALERS ARE
USUALLY VERY COOPERATIVE, MAINLY BECAUSE THEY WANT TO SELL THEIR
GUNS.
5. GET BATF APPROVAL. PAY $200 TRANSFER TAX(SHOULD ALREADY BE
CALCULATED INTO YOUR EXPENDITURE ACCOUNT--SEE STEP 2).
6. BUY YOUR FULL-AUTO AND TAKE IT HOME.
7. TAKE GUN TO SAFE PLACE TO PRACTICE YOUR FIRING, NOW THAT WE WENT
THROUGH ALL THIS, WE DON'T WANT TO GET IN TROUBLE FOR DISTURBING THE
PEACE, DO WE?
WELL, THAT IS A VERY BASIC DESCRIPTION OF ALL THE THINGS YOU HAVE TO
DO TO GET A LEGAL FULL-AUTO. REMEMBER THIS, THOUGH, YOUR GUN IS NOW
REGISTERED IN THE GOVERNMENT FILES AS A FULL-AUTO HAZARD TO THEM. BE
VERY CAREFUL OF WHAT YOU GET CAUGHT DOING WITH YOUR PIECE NOW THAT
YOU HAVE IT.
ILLEGAL
I TOLD YOU THERE WERE TWO WAYS, WELL HERE IS THE OTHER ONE. ILLEGAL.
THAT MEANS IF YOU GET CAUGHT WITH ONE OF THESE YOU WILL GET THE
WEAPON CONFISCATED, AND A MASSIVE FINE. NOW ALL THAT IS GREAT, BUT
THEY DO NOT KNOW YOU HAVE ONE UNLESS YOU DO ONE OF A FEW THINGS THE
FEDS HAVE TO TIP THEM OFF TO ILLEGAL FULL-AUTO OWNERS. ONE IS MAIL-
ORDERS. SOME MAIL ORDERS THAT YOU SEND AWAY FOR,
LIKE INSTRUCTION BOOKLETS TO CONVERT CERTAIN GUNS TO FULL- AUTO, ARE
JUST FRONTS FOR THE FEDS. THEY SEND YOU THE BOOKLET, GIVE YOU TIME
TO MAKE THE CONVERSION, THEN COME AND BUST YOU FOR HAVING ILLEGAL
FIREARMS. ANOTHER THING THAT TIPS OFF THE COPS IS "CONCERNED
CITIZENS" THAT HEAR FULL-AUTOS, AND GET SCARED SHIT-LESS THINKING
SOMEONE IS GOING TO BLOW THEM AWAY. THEY CALL THE COPS, AND THEY COME
RUNNING, LOOKING FOR THE OFFENDER.
I JUST THOUGHT I WOULD TELL YOU A FEW OF THE RISK FACTORS BEFORE I
GET INTO THE ACTUAL MECHANICS OF GETTING ILLEGAL FULL- AUTOS. IF YOU
PLAY IT SAFE, THIS METHOD CAN COST LESS THAN BUYING ONE LEGALLY. OK,
THERE ARE BASICALLY TWO WAYS TO GET FULL-AUTOS ILLEGALLY. CONVERT
SEMI-AUTOS TO FULL-AUTO, OR SELECTIVE FIRE, AND BUYING A PREMADE FULL
AUTO ON THE BLACK MARKET.
I WOULD NOT IN ANY WAY SUGGEST THE SECOND METHOD, YOU GET IN CONTACT
WITH SOME REAL HEAVY DUDES, SOME REAL HARD ASSES THAT WOULD JUST AS
SOON SHOOT YOU AS SELL YOU A GUN. THIS METHOD IS NOT WISE, OR
PRUDENT, OR ALL THAT CRAP, BUT I TOLD YOU ABOUT IT BECAUSE IT IS
THERE, AND IT IS AN OPTION.
THE CONVERSION OF A SEMI-AUTO TO FULL-AUTO IS USUALLY A COMPLICATED
PROCESS, AND THE METHODS ARE DIFFERENT FOR EACH DIFFERENT KIND OF
RIFLES. THE AR-15/M-16 IS THE ONE EXCEPTION TO THIS RULE. IT IS
EXTREMELY EASY TO CONVERT TO FULL-AUTO. BUT ANYHOW, THE WAY YOU GO
THROUGH IT IS YOU FIRST CHOOSE YOURSELF A GOOD SEMI-AUTO RIFLE THAT
USES A BOX MAGAZINE(ALSO CALLED "CLIP") IT IS ALSO PREFERABLE TO BUY
A WELL KNOWN SEMI-AUTO SO THE CLIPS ARE CHEAP, AND CONVERSION PLANS
ARE READILY AVAILABLE. A GOOD EXAMPLE WOULD BE UZI, AR-15, MINI-14,
MAC-10, KG-99 OR OTHER GOOD, COMMON GUNS.
ALL RIGHT, SO NOW YOU HAVE A GUN PICKED OUT IN YOUR MIND. SEND FOR A
MANUAL THAT EXPLAINS THE PROCEDURE FOR CONVERTING YOUR GUN. IT IS
VERY IMPORTANT THAT WHEN YOU DO THIS, YOU BUY FROM A WELL KNOWN
PUBLISHER LIKE PALADIN PRESS, OR BILL MOORE PUBLICATIONS. OK NOW,
VERY CAREFULLY FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO THE LETTER. YOU DO NOT WANT
OT SCREW UP YOUR FIREARM BY GRINDING IN THE WRONG PLACE, OR THROWING
AWAY THE WRONG PART.
THIS IS BASICALLY ALL I CAN TELL YOU BECAUSE IT IS A VERY COMPLICATED
PROCEDURE THAT TAKES A LOT OF TIME TO EXPLAIN, BUT I CAN GIVE
SOMETHING OF USE TO ALL OF YOU WHO OWN A MINI-14. YOU KNOW, MADE BY
RUGER. WHEN I TELL YOU THIS, I AM ASSUMING YOU KNOW AT LEAST A LITTLE
BIT ABOUT YOUR GUN. IF YOU DON'T KNOW A FUCK ABOUT THE INSIDES OF THE
MINI-14 LEAVE IT THE HELL ALONE! I DON'T WANT YOU TO SCREW IT UP ON
ACCOUNT OF ME.
OK, LOOK IN THE MANUAL THAT CAME WITH YOUR GUN. THERE IS A PART
CALLED THE SECONDARY SEAR. THIS IS WHAT PREVENTS YOUR MINI FROM BEING
MIGHTY. TAKE APART THE MECHANISM AND REMOVE THE SECONDARY SEAR and THE
SPRING BEHIND IT. REASSEMBLE THE MECHANISM, MAKING SURE YOU DON'T
FORGET TO PUT ALL THE OTHER PIECES IN THEIR RIGHT PLACES. YOUR RIFLE
IS NOW A SLAM-FIRING FULL AUTO. KEEP THE SECONDARY SEAR, IN A SAFE
PLACE, BECAUSE TO CONVERT IT BACK TO SEMI-AUTO, AND BACK TO LEGAL,
YOU JUST PUT IN THE SECONDARY SEAR. REMEMBER, THIS METHOD IS THE
"CHEAPO" AND CONVERTS YOUR MINI TO FULL-AUTO ONLY. WHEN YOU LOAD IT
UP AND PULL THE TRIGGER, IT WILL FIRE ABOUT TWO SHOTS IF YOU JUST
SNAP THE TRIGGER AND RELEASE IT QUICKLY. DO NOT HOLD THE TRIGGER
DOWN! THIS WILL CAUSE THE FIREARM TO BECOME UNCONTROLLABLE, AND THUS
DANGEROUS TO YOURSELF AS WELL AS OTHERS.
THAT'S ALL FOR NOW, BUT BE LOOKING FOR MY FOLLOW-UP ARTICLES ON HOW
TO CONVERT UZIS, AR-15S, AND KG-99S. STAY SANE, AND KILL A COMMIE
FOR MOMMIE! I HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED TO THIS TO THE FULLEST! LATER,
THE ANGEL OF DESTINY.
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+-------------------------------------+
! KING ARTHUR'S DEMOLITION ARTICLE #1 !
+-------------------------------------+
LIKE ALL CHEMISTS I MUST ADVISE YOU ALL TO TAKE THE GREATEST CARE AND
CAUTION WHEN YOU ARE DOING THIS. EVEN IF YOU HAVE MADE THIS STUFF
BEFORE.
THIS FIRST ARTICLE WILL GIVE YOU INFORMATION ON MAKING NITROGLYCERIN,
THE BASIC INGREDIENT IN A LOT OF EXPLOSIVES SUCH AS STRAIGHT
DYNAMITES, AND GELATIN DYNAMITES.
---------------------------------------
MAKING NITROGLYCERIN
---------------------------------------
1. FILL A 75-MILLILITER BEAKER TO THE 13 ML. LEVEL WITH FUMING RED
NITRIC ACID, OF 98% PURE CONCENTRATION.
2. PLACE THE BEAKER IN AN ICE BATH AND ALLOW TO COOL BELOW ROOM TEMP.
3. AFTER IT HAS COOLED, ADD TO IT THREE TIMES THE AMOUNT OF FUMING
SULFURIC ACID (99% H2SO4). IN OTHER WORDS, ADD TO THE NOW-COOL FUMING
NITRIC ACID 39 ML. OF FUMING SULFURIC ACID. WHEN MIXING ANY ACIDS,
ALWAYS DO IT SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY TO AVOID SPLATTERING.
4. WHEN THE TWO ARE MIXED, LOWER THEIR TEMP. BY ADDING MORE ICE TO
THE BATH, ABOUT 10-15 DEGREES CENTIGRADE. (USE A MERCURY-OPERATED
THERMOMETER)
5. WHEN THE ACID SOLUTION HAS COOLED TO THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE, IT
IS READY FOR THE GLYCERIN. THE GLYCERIN MUST BE ADDED IN SMALL
AMOUNTS USING A MEDICINE DROPPER. (READ THIS STEP ABOUT 10 TIMES!)
GLYCERIN IS ADDED SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY (I MEAN CAREFUL!) UNTIL THE
ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE ACID IT COVERED WITH IT.
6. THIS IS A DANGEROUS POINT SINCE THE NITRATION WILL TAKE PLACE AS
SOON AS THE GLYCERIN IS ADDED. THE NITRATION WILL PRODUCE HEAT, SO
THE SOLUTION MUST BE KEPT BELOW 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE! IF THE
SOLUTION SHOULD GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES, IMMEDIATELY DUMP THE SOLUTION
INTO THE ICE BATH! THIS WILL INSURE THAT IT DOES NOT GO OFF IN YOUR
FACE!
7. FOR HTE FIRST TEN MINUTES OF NITRATION, THE MIXTURE SHOULD BE
GENTLY STIRRED. IN A NORMAL REACTION THE NITROGLYCERIN WILL FORMS A
LAYER ON TOP OF THE ACID SOLUTION, WHILE THE SULFURIC ACID WILL
ABSORB THE EXCESS WATER.
8. AFTER THE NITRATION HAS TAKEN PLACE, AND THE NITROGLYCERIN HAS
FORMED ON THE TOP OF THE SOLUTION, THE ENTIRE BEAKER SHOULD BE
TRANSFERRED SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY TO ANOTHER BEAKER OF WATER. WHEN
THIS IS DONE THE NITROGLYCERIN WILL SETTLE AT THE BOTTOM SO THE OTHER
ACIDS CAN BE DRAINED AWAY.
9. AFTER REMOVING AS MUCH ACID AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT DISTURBING THE
NITROGLYCERIN, REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN WITH AN EYEDROPPER AND PLACE
IT IN A BICARBONATE OF SODA (SODIUM BICARBONATE IN CASE YOU DIDN'T
KNOW) SOLUTION. THE SODIUM IS AN ALKALI AND WILL NEUTRALIZE MUCH OF
THE ACID REMAINING. THIS PROCESS SHOULD BE REPEATED AS MUCH AS
NECESSARY USING BLUE LITMUS PAPER TO CHECK FOR THE PRESENCE OF ACID.
THE REMAINING ACID ONLY MAKES THE NITROGLYCERIN- MORE UNSTABLE THAN
IT ALREADY IS.
10. FINALLY! THE FINAL STEP IS TO REMOVE THE NITROGLYCERIN FROM THE
BI-CARBONATE. HIS IS DONE WITH AND EYE-DROPPER, SLOWLY AND
CAREFULLY. THE USUAL TEST TO SEE IF NITRATION HAS BEEN SUCCESSFUL IS
TO PLACE ONE DROP OF THE NITROGLYCERIN ON METAL AND IGNITE IT. IF IT
IS TRUE NITROGLYCERIN IT WILL BURN WITH A CLEAR BLUE FLAME.
** CAUTION ** NITRO IS VERY SENSITIVE TO DECOMPOSITION, HEATING
DROPPING, OR JARRING, AND MAY EXPLODE IF LEFT UNDISTURBED AND COOL.
--------------------------------------
NEXT ARTICLES: #2 MERCURY FULMINATE
#3 DYNAMITES
#4 CHLORIDE OF AZODE
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+-------------------------------------+
! King Arthur's Demolition article #2 !
+-------------------------------------+
I have decided to skip the article on mercury fluminate for a while
and get right into the dynamite article.
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilizing
agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake of saving time, I
will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG. The numbers are
percentages, be sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the
exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
no. ingredients amount
---------------------------------------
#1 NG 32
sodium nitrate 28
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotten 1
#2 NG 24
potassium nitrate 9
sodium nitate 56
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 2
#3 NG 35.5
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6
guncotton 2.5
vaseline 5.5
powdered charcoal 6
#4 NG 25
potassium nitrate 26
woodmeal 34
barium nitrate 5
starch 10
#5 NG 57
potassium nitrate 19
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 12
guncotton 3
#6 NG 18
sodium nitrate 70
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5
chalk 2
#7 NG 26
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32
sodium carbonate 2
#8 NG 44
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44
#9 NG 24
potassium nitrate 32.5
woodmeal 33.5
ammonium oxalate 10
#10 NG 26
potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 41
#11 NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
woodmeal 21.2
sodium carbonate .9
#12 NG 35
sodium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 1
#13 NG 32
potassium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1
#14 NG 33
woodmeal 10.3
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27
#15 NG 40
sodium nitrate 45
woodmeal 15
#16 NG 47
starch 50
guncotton 3
#17 NG 30
sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
potassium chloride 7.2
#18 NG 50
sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
ammonium oxalate .4
#19 NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
woodmeal 37
ammonium oxalate 8
barium nitrate 4
calcium carbonate .5
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Kitchen Improvised Plastic Explosives
How to make type 'C-2' and 'C-3'
plastic explosive compound.
by
Agrajag the Prolonged
This article will cover the production of plastic explosives of the
type 'C-2' and 'C-3'. These are highly undesirable because of
certain trait each has and they don't produce as much power as 'C'
and 'C-4' compounds.
It is not recommended you make these two types of plastique, this
article was written for informative purposes only. (Just so you
can act like you know what you are doing).
Composition 'C-2' is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO
HANDLE. It is also unstable in storage and is poor choice for home
explosive manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than
either 'C-4' or 'C-3'.
It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using
the same procedure used in incorporation of 'C-3'. Its composition
is as follows:
R.D.X................. 80%
(Equal parts of them following:)
Mononitrotolulene
Dinitrotolulene
T.N.T. guncotton
Dimethylformide......... 20%
(See Below for rest of recipe)
'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'.
It was standardized and adopted by the military as following
composition:
R.D.X................ 77%
Mononitrotolulene.... 16%
Dinitrotolulene...... 5%
Tetryl............... 1% T.N.T.
guncotton..... 1%
'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plasticizing agent in a steam
jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring
attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees Celcius and the
stirrer is activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plasticizing
agent and the stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is
obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat source
but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room
temperature.
This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65
degrees Celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does
not impair it's explosive properties.
'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as good as an expulsive as is
T.N.T. The major drawback of 'C-3' is its volatility which causes it
to lose 1.2% of its weight although the explosives detonation
properties are not affected.
Water does not affect explosives performance. It therefore is very
good for under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for
such an application.
When stored at 77 degrees Celcius considerable extrudation takes
place. It will become hard at -29 degrees Celcius and is hard to
detonate at this temperature.
While this explosive is not unduly toxic, it should be handled with
care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through
the skin.
It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use
of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast
effect and was still is available in standard demolition blocks.
Its detonation velocity is approximately 7700 M/second.
Live long and prosper,
Agrajag
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/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
/=\=/ How to Make and use \=/=\
\=/=\ Nitroglycerin /=\=/
/=\=/ Edited by Irate Pirate \=/=\
\=/=\ Computer Pirates of Utah /=\=/
/=\=/ Phone: (801)-264-8201 /=\=/
/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
Nitroglycerin <heretofore Nitro> is a very powerful high explosive.
I am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't -- the first
person to make it probably blew himself up and his friend got the
info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best thing to nitro is TNT
which is ten times harder to make but also ten times safer to make.
If you can't use it then don't even TRY to make this stuff!!!
To Make Nitro:
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a
specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulfuric acid.
This is going to be HOT at first -- it won't splatter if you pour the
nitric INTO the sulfuric but don't try it the other way around. The
acid solutions together can dissolve flesh in a matter of seconds so
take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts
glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down the sides of the
container into the acids or it won't mix thoroughly and the reaction
could go to fast -- which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff.
Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CAREFULLY pour it
into 20 time it's volume of water. It will visibly precipitate
immediately. There will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin
and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you
have separated it -- this helps it not to go off spontaneously.
NOTES:
Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of specific gravity can be
found in most chemical. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric
acid wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is
positively *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.
When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made
the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too
much glycerine at the time.) I was across the room at the time, but I
felt the impact -- so did the table it was on as well as the window
it was next to --- they were both smashed by only 25 grams in an open
bowl.) Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need
no adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if
you don't add the bicarbonate (baking soda) -- but even with that, if
it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it.
Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can
make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by
simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating
that with molten (paraffin -- just enough to make it sealed and
hard.) Typically use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro,
cotton and paraffin. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once know
as "Norbin and Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.
**Carefully** mix equal amounts of nitric acid and sulfuric acid
together in a graduated cylinder or other tall, thin container.
Slowly add ordinary glycerin a stir very lightly. Wait a while, and
pour off the liquid on top. This liquid is nitroglycerine, and
should be handled with caution. Washing it with sodium carbonate
will improve the purity.
As for the use of what you just made let me know......
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THE PEN GUN
BY
THE ARCHITECT
The growing world of household weapons would not be complete without
the infamous PEN GUN. This versatile weapon which doubles as a
household pen, can be shot up to 2 feet and still do sub stantial
damage to the enemies' eyes or what not.
STEP 1: acquire a "push pen", one that snaps in and out when you
press the back of the pen.
STEP 2: next, disassemble this pen so that you have the 4 parts
needed to fire your semi-automatic weapon.
1> the pusher (found in the back)
2> the little pusher (found in the pusher)
3> the spring (found on top of the ink case)
4> the ink case (the long thing with ink in it)
Once you have discovered these parts. arrange them in such a way so
that you can see each of the parts.
STEP 4: now, you must follow these instructions closely.
1> put the pusher in it's old place. be sure not to put the little
pusher in it!
2> put the spring in next (all this goes in the back of the pen)
3> on top of the spring goes the little pusher.
4> put the ink case on top of the little pusher and replace the
front. (this cram all of the little parts together and make them
stick in there.
5> remove the top. and leave the ink case in, as this will be the
pain inflicting element.
To activate this little gun, just push the pusher! (some extra force
may be required)
This little weapon/writing utensil, can be used to write a paper or
blind an enemy! It's also good for shooting the person in front of
you in class (be sure he's wearing thick clothes unless
you want to hurt him)
Enjoy!
The Architect
Disclaimer:
The Architect assumes no responsibility for the actions of others in
the use of this mechanical wonder.
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HOW TO MAKE PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES
A PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER CAN BE MADE FROM POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND
PETROLEUM JELLY. THIS EXPLOSIVE CAN BE DETONATED IN ANY MILITARY
BLASTING CAP. (FIND A FRIEND IN THE SERVICE OR IN THE RESERVE, OR
STEAL ONE).
MATERIALS:
----------
POTASSIUM CHLORATE - THIS CHEMICAL IS USED FOR MEDICINAL PURPOSES,
AND IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MATCHES.
PETROLEUM JELLY - JUST GET SOME VASELINE OR NO-NAME BRAND.
PIECE OF ROUND STICK
WIDE BOWL OR OTHER CONTAINER FOR MIXING INGREDIENTS.
PROCEDURE:
----------
1) SPREAD THE POT. NIT. CRYSTALS THINLY ON A HARD SURFACE. ROLL THE
ROUND STICK OVER THE CRYSTALS TO CRUSH INTO WHAT LOOKS LIKE WHEAT
FLOUR.
2) PLACE 9 PARTS POWDERED POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND 1 PART PETROLEUM
JELLY IN A WIDE BOWL OR SIMILAR CONTAINER. MIX THE INGREDIENTS WITH
YOUR HANDS (KNEAD) UNTIL A UNIFORM PASTE IS OBTAINED.
STORE THE EXPLOSIVE IN A WATERPROOF CONTAINER UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO
USE IT.
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES-
MIX 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE FOR EVERY ONE PART OF PETROLEUM JELLY
(VASELINE WILL DO) THEN USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE.
NITRO IODIDE-
OK, THIS IS HOW TO MAKE NITRIC IODIDE. MIX SOME SOLID IODINE WITH
HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA. WAIT OVERNIGHT. POUR OFF THE LIQUID. LET THE MUD
FROM THE BOTTOM DRY ON A HARD SURFACE OUTSIDE LIKE CONCRETE. THROW
SOMETHING ON IT. IT WILL GO OFF AT THE SOUND OF A VOICE BECAUSE IT IS
SO UNSTABLE.
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KITCHEN IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES
BY TIM LEWIS PART II RDX MANUFACTURE
RDX IS THE MAIN INGREDIENT IN THE REST OF THE PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES I
WILL COVER. THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW
WHAT YOU ARE DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS IF YOU WISH TO LIVE
TILL YOUR NEXT BIRTHDAY!
SINCE THE FIRST PART OF WWII THE ARMED FORCES OF THE UNITED STATES
HAS BEEN SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVES TO BE USED IN
DEMOLITION WORK. THIS SEARCH LEAD TO THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE 'C'
COMPOSITION PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVES. OF THIS GROUP C-4 BEING THE LATEST
FORMULATION THAT HAS BEEN READILY ADOPTED BY THE ARMED FORCES. THIS
FORMULATION WAS PRECEDED BY C-3, C-2, AND C.
IN THIS SERIES OF ARTICLES, I WILL COVER ALL THESE EXPLOSIVES IN
THEIR CHRONOLOGICAL PROGRESSION AS THEY WERE DEVELOPED AND
STANDARDIZED BY THE ARMED FORCES. ALL THESE EXPLOSIVES ARE CYCLONITE
OR R.D.X. BASE WITH VARIOUS PLASTICIZING AGENTS USED TO ACHIEVE THE
DESIRED PRODUCT. THIS PLASTICIZER, USUALLY COMPOSES 7%-20% OF THE
TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE PLASTIQUE. CYCLOTRIMETHYLENETRINITTRIME OR
CYCLONITE IS MANUFACTURED IN BULK BY THE NITRATION OF
HEXAMETHYLENETETRAMINE, (METHENAMINE, HEXAMINE, ETC., ETC.) WITH
STRONG RED 100% NITRIC ACID. THE HARDEST PART OF THIS REACTION IS
OBTAINING THIS RED NITRIC ACID. IT WILL MOST LIKELY HAVE TO BE MADE.
MORE ON THIS LATER. HEXAMINE OR METHENAMINE CAN USUALLY BE BOUGHT IN
BULK QUANTITIES OR HEXAMINE FUEL BARS FOR CAMP STOVES CAN BE USED BUT
THEY END UP BEING VERY EXPLOSIVE. TO USE THE FUEL BARS THE NEED TO
BE POWERED BEFORE HAND. THE HEXAMINE CAN ALSO BE MADE WITH COMMON
AMMONIA WATER (30%) AND THE COMMONLY AVAILABLE 36% FORMALDEHYDE
SOLUTION. TO MAKE THIS COMPONENT PLACE 185 GRAMS OF CLEAR AMMONIA
WATER IN A SHALLOW PYREX DISH. TO THIS ADD 500ML OF THE FORMALDEHYDE
SOLUTION TO THE AMMONIA WATER. ALLOW THIS TO EVAPORATE AND WHEN THE
CRYSTALS ARE ALL THAT REMAINS IN THE PAN PLACE THE PAN IN THE OVEN ON
THE LOWEST HEAT THAT THE OVEN HAS. THIS SHOULD BE DONE ONLY FOR A
MOMENT OR SO TO DRIVE OFF ANY REMAINING WATER. THESE CRYSTALS ARE
SCRAPED UP AND PLACED IN A AIRTIGHT JAR TO STORE THEM UNTIL THEY ARE
USED. TO MAKE THE RED NITRIC ACID YOU WILL NEED TO BUY A RETORT WITH
A GROUND GLASS STOPPER. IN THE RETORT PLACE 32 GRAMS SULFURIC ACID,
(98%-100%), AND TO THIS ADD 68 GRAMS OF POTASSIUM NITRATE OR 58 GRAMS
OF SODIUM NITRATE. GENTLY HEATING THIS RETORT WILL GENERATE A RED
GAS CALLED NITROGEN TRIOXIDE. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS
STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WI TH GOOD VENTILATION.
THIS NITRIC ACED THAT IS FORMED WILL COLLECT IN THE NECK OF THE
RETORT AND FORM DROPLETS THAT WILL RUN DOWN THE INSIDE OF THE NECK OF
THE RETORT AND SHOULD BE CAUGHT IN A BEAKER COOLED BY BEING
SURROUNDED BY ICE WATER.
THIS SHOULD BE HEATED TILL NO MORE COLLECTS IN THE NECK OF THE RETORT
AND THE NITRIC ACID QUITS DRIPPING OUT OF THE NECK INTO THE BEAKER.
THIS ACID SHOULD BE STORED UNTIL ENOUGH ACID IS GENERATED TO PRODUCE
THE REQUIRED SIZE BATCH WHICH IS DETERMINED BY THE PERSON PRODUCING
THE EXPLOSIVE. OF COURSE THE BATCH CAN BE LARGER OR SMALLER BUT THE
SAME RATIONS SHOULD BE MAINTAINED. TO MAKE R.D.X. PLACE 550 GRAMS OF
THE NITRIC ACID PRODUCED BY THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN A 1000 ML. BEAKER
IN A SAL TED BATH. 50 GRAMS OF HEXAMINE, (METHENAMINE) IS ADDED IN
SMALL PORTIONS MAKING SURE THAT THE TEMPERATURE OF THE ACID DOES NOT
GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS. THIS TEMPERATURE CAN BE MONITORED BY
PLACING A THERMOMETER DIRECTLY IN THE ACID MIXTURE. DURING THIS
PROCEDURE A VIGOROUS STIRRING SHOULD BE MAINTAINED. IF THE
TEMPERATURE APPROACHES 30 DEGREES, IMMEDIATELY STOP THE ADDITION OF
THE HEXAMINE UNTIL THE TEMPERATURE DROPS TO AN ACCEPTABLE LEVEL.
AFTER THE ADDITION IS COMPLETE CONTINUE THE STIRRING AND ALLOW THE
TEMPERATURE TO DROP TO 0 DEGREES CELCIUS AND ALLOW IT TO STAY THERE
FOR 20 MINUTES CONTINUING THE VIGOROUS STIRRING. AFTER THE 20 MINUTES
ARE UP, POUR THIS ACID-HEXAMINE MIXTURE INTO 1000 ML. OF FINELY
CRUSHED ICE AND WATER. CRYSTALS SHOULD FORM AND ARE FILTERED OUT OF
THE LIQUID. THE CRYSTALS THAT ARE FILTERED OUT ARE R.D.X. AND WILL
NEED TO HAVE ALL TRACES OF THE ACID REMOVED. TO REMOVE THIS TRACE OF
ACID, FIRST WASH THESE CRYSTALS BY PUTTING THEM IN ICE WATER AND
SHAKING AND REFILTERING. THESE CRYSTALS ARE THEN PLACED IN A LITTLE
BOILING WATER AND FILTERED. PLACE THEM IN SOME WARM WATER AND CHECK
THE ACIDITY FOR THE RESULTANT SUSPENSION WITH LITMUS PAPER. YOU WANT
IT TO READ BETWEEN 6 AND 7 ON THE PH SCALE. IF THERE IS STILL ACID IN
THESE CRYSTALS REBOIL THEM IN FRESH WATER UNTIL THE ACID IS REMOVED
AND THE LITMUS PAPER SHOWS THEM BETWEEN 6 AND 7, (THE CLOSER TO 7 THE
BETTER).
TO BE SAFE THESE CRYSTALS SHOULD BE STORED WATER WET UNTIL READY FOR
USE. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED
WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! THIS EXPLOSIVE IS MUCH MORE POWERFUL
THAN T.N.T. TO USE, THESE WILL NEED TO BE DRIED FOR SOME
MANUFACTURING PROCESSES IN THE NEXT FEW ARTICLES. TO DRY THESE
CRYSTALS, PLACE THEM IN A PAN AND SPREAD THEM OUT AND ALLOW THE WATER
TO EVAPORATE OFF THEM UNTIL THE ARE COMPLETELY DRY. THIS EXPLOSIVE
WILL DETONATE IN THIS DRY FORM WHEN PRESSED INTO A MOLD TO A DENSITY
OF 1.55 GRAMS CUBED, AT A VELOCITY OF 8550 M/SECOND!
COMPARISON OF DETONATION VELOCITIES
+------------------------------+
8600 ! !
8500 ! %%% !
8400 ! %%% !
8300 ! %%% !
8200 ! %%% !
8100 ! %%% %%% !
8000 ! %%% %%% !
7900 ! %%% %%% %%% !
7800 ! %%% %%% %%% !
7700 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% !
7600 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
7500 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
7400 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
7300 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
7200 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
7100 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
7000 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
6900 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
6800 ! %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% %%% !
+--------------------------------+
TNT RDX C C-2 C-3 C-4
YOU MAY OBTAIN A CATALOG OF BOOKS THAT
THEY SELL BY WRITING
INFORMATION PUBLISHING CO.
BOX 10042 ODESSA, TEXAS 79762
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POTASSIUM NITRATE
MORE THINGS TO DO WITH POTASSIUM NITRATE (BESIDES GUN POWDER). WELL A
GREAT THING TO DO IS TO MIX IT 50% WITH SUGAR AND PUT IT IN A TIN CAN
WITH THE TOP SAWED OFF. MIX IT WELL THEN LIGHT AND MAKE A LOT OF
SMOKE. IT WILL MELT CAN TO THE GROUND. FOR THE PURISTS WHAT IS
HAPPENING IS THE POTASSIUM NITRATE IS OXIDIZING THE SUGAR WHICH AND
GOOD BIO STUDENT KNOWS HAS HIGH ENERGY IN IT! SO WATCH WHAT IS
HAPPENING YOUR BODY AND A SLIGHTLY ACCELERATED.
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_________________________________
[ ]
[ THE FIRST BOOK OF ]
[ PYROMANIACS ]
[ ]
[ BY: GREY WOLF ]
[ <THE COMMANDERS> ]
[_________________________________]
P.S. DON'T KILL YOURSELF...
.......................................
->UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<-
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^
1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA
2) WAIT OVERNIGHT
3) POUR OFF THE LIQUID
4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CONCRETE)
5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT!
->SMOKE BOMBS<-
^^^^^ ^^^^^
1) MIX: 3 PARTS SUGAR
--------------------
6 PARTS EPSON SALTS
2) PUT IN TINCAN, ONTO LOW FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER)
3) LET GEL and HARDEN
4) PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE.
5) LIGHT IT and RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY
BLOCK...
->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<-
^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^
1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASIUM CHLORATE
---------------------------
1 PART VASELINE
2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE.
->CAR BOMB<-
^^^ ^^^^
1) PUT LIQUID DRAINO INTO A PILL BOX (THE KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE
ON A PRESCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK)
2) CLOSE THE LID and POP THE THING INTO THE GAS TANK
3) WAIT 5 MIN.
4) RUN
->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES<-
^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^
1) MIX: 2 PARTS VASELINE
------------------
1 PART GASOLINE
2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE.
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PYROMANIAC'S GUIDE
Today boys and girls we will tell you all about having fun with a few
simple items that you can buy easily or may even have in your home.
Since most of you are simple-minded, uncoordinated morons, I will
start you out slowly and simply (like you).
Our first project is a sure fire way to be the life of the party.
Real sure fire. This item is called a "Handy House Warmer." All you
need are three items which can easily be obtained. The first item is
a roll of electrical tape (starts easy). Second, a large can of
Sterno, easily bought at any camping or hardware store. Third, an M-
80 or other similar explosive plaything.
Step one in the construction of our pyrotecnic wonder is to remove
the top of the sterno and, using an ice pick or other sharp item,
punch a hole in the top of the can. Step two is placing the M-80
into the sterno gel. Make sure it is well covered by the gel. Step
three is to replace the cap, making sure to thread the M-80 fuse
through the hole in the cap. After securing the lid tightly on the
can, you can start the final phase to fun. The last step is simply
to wind tape tightly around the entire can, making sure to cover it
completely with at least three layers of tape but not more than six
layers.
Now, as you can tell, when you go to use our incendiary toy to
cheaply and efficiently heat any home in your neighborhood, all you
have to do is light the fuse and run. The other advantages of this
are that Sterno sticks to almost anything and is very difficult to
put out, needing to be completely smothered, and that Sterno is
highly prone to reignition (very similar to napalm). This type of
firecracker is handy in small areas such as inside cars, small rooms,
phone booths, rectums, etc...
Now, I am not advocating the use of this item for anything but your
own personal fireworks displays and enjoyment, but where and what you
call enjoyment I won't judge.
Well, boys and girls, that's all for today. Hope you enjoyed our
time together and remember my motto: DEATH IS JUST A STATE OF MIND.
T. T. F. N. from G. W.
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Rocket Bombs
BY: MR. DEATH
HAVE YOU EVER WANTED TO BUILD YOUR OWN WARHEAD CARRYING ROCKET? WELL
NOW YOU CAN WITH THE NEW "BLOW-EM-UP" ROCKET BOMB PLANS FROM MR.
DEATH. FIRST YOU MUST HAVE SOME SORT OF EXPERIENCE IN MODEL ROCKETRY.
THEN GO OUT AND BUY A "D" OR "E" ENGINE ROCKET THAT IS FAIRLY SIMPLE.
MAKE THE ROCKET LIKE THEY SAY AND THEN FILL THE NOSE CONE WITH SOME
SUBSTANCE THAT HAS THE SAME WEIGHT OR CLOSE TO FLASH-POWDER. DETACH
THE NOSE CONE FROM THE SHOCK CORD SO THAT ONLY THE BODY WILL BE
CONNECTED TO THE PARACHUTE. GET A GOOD STOPWATCH AND A PAIR OF GOOD
BINOCULARS AND LAUNCH THE ROCKET STRAIGHT UP. WATCH THE ROCKET AND
START TIMING WHEN THE EJECTION CHARGE BLOWS THE CONE FREE AND STOP
TIMING RIGHT WHEN THE CONE IMPACTS ON THE GROUND.
THEN RETRIEVE THE BODY AND GET ANOTHER NOSE CONE. FILL THE NOSE CONE
WITH FLASH POWDER AND BLOCK UP THE HOLE WITH MODEL CEMENT. MAKE SURE
TO HAVE A NICE LITTLE FUSE STICKING OUT OF THE CEMENT. THAT FUSE
SHOULD BE A LITTLE SMALLER THAN THE AMOUNT OF TIME IT TOOK FOR
IMPACT. (SMALLER TIME-WISE) FIGURE THAT IF IT TOOK 30 SEC. TO FALL
THEN THE FUSE SHOULD BE ENOUGH FOR ABOUT 25 SEC. NOW THIS IS GOOD FOR
A BOMB THAT WILL GO STRAIGHT UP AND COME STRAIGHT DOWN. NOW IF YOU
WANT TO SHOOT IT ON AN ANGLE, THEN YOU MUST USE SOME FORMULA TO
FIGURE OUT HOW HIGH THE ROCKET WILL BE WHEN EJECTION OCCURS SO THAT
YOU CAN TIME YOUR FUSE RIGHT. REMEMBER TO USE A NO-TIME DELAY ENGINE
SO THAT THE EJECTION CHARGE WILL OCCUR IMMEDIATELY. HAVE FUN.
*** MR. DEATH ***
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SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB
This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom
of a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant
firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and
bolts or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a
plastic drinking straw.
After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or
glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or
wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you
three to five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on
passerbys.
It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone
else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink
from your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast!
!!
!!
!! <-chemical ingiter
---------
! !1! !
! ===== !
!*! !"!
! ! ! !
! ! ! !<- big firecracker
! ! !%!
! ==== !
! !
! # !
! --- !
! ! ! <- nuts and bolts
! / !
! !
---------
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S T I N K U M
FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON
TYPED BY THE PENGUIN
IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO
MAKE AND JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM
SULFIDE. IT STINKS TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN
STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR
VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION.
TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFUR R WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED
LIME IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED
AND STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFER HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED
LIME WILL SINK TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN
POURED OFF INTO A BUCKET
TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF
SULFATE OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER
THE BUCKET WITH PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR.
THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO
ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON.
A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFATE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY
GARDEN STORE AND GARDEN SULFER IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT
GUN POWDER. IT HAS 10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED
TO ANY FORMULA REQUIRED-ING SULFER. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A
BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10 A POUND.
STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL,
THROWN IN A BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE
SAME GOES FOR THE FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE
NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC
COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE CAN BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP
FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS BOUGHT AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE
WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION. TO KEEP THE
FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO
MELTED WAX. ENOUGH GOODY IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT
FULL WHEN THE FIRECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS
FILLED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE BEFORE USING.
IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A
MATCH OR CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT
THAT MIGHT INJURE SOMEONE.
! <- FUSE
---
! ! <- BRASS TUBE
! !
! !
(^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE
-------
! !1! !
! / !
! / !
!-----! <- WAX
! 1 !
! 1 !
! === !
! ! ! !
! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER
! ! ! !
! ! ! !
! === !
!-----!
Edited by : Quasimoto
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TEAR GAS
THERE ARE SEVERAL EYE AND NOSE IRRITANTS ON THE MARKET WHICH CAN BE BE
EASILY DUPLICATED.
A GOOD IRRITANT IS FORMALDEHYDE. BETTER KNOWN AS EMBALMING FLUID, IT
SMELLS HORRIBLE, HURTS THE EYES AND NOSE, AND B ON EXPOSURE TO THE AIR
IT VAPORIZES, MAKING A ROOM UNINHABITABLE FOR HOURS.
IT CAN BE SQUIRTED FROM A WATER PISTOL OR NASAL INHALER, POURED ON
THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY A BOMB DESCRIBED IN THE STINKUM FILE.
FORMALDEHYDE CAN BE BOUGHT AT THE DRUG STORE UNDER THE PRETEXT OF
WANTING IT TO PRESERVE MICE OR OTHER LAB SPECIMEN.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
THE IRRITANT MAILMEN USE AGAINST DOGS AND WHICH IS SOLD WIDELY FOR
SELF DEFENSE IS OLEORESID CAPSICUM. CAPSICUM IS THE HOT ESSENCE OF
RED PEPPERS.
OLEORESIN IS THE PROCESS FOR EXTRACTING IT. TO EXTRACT THE CAPSICUM,
GRIND UP FOUR OUNCES OF RED PEPPER SEEDS IN A BLENDER OR WITH A
MORTAR AND B PESTLE. RED PEPPER SEEDS ARE BOUGHT IN THE GROCERS'S.
THE DRY, GROUND SEEDS ARE THEN PUT INTO A COFFEE PERCOLATOR IN WHICH
THERE IS ABOUT 16 OUNCES OF ALCOHOL,PREFERABLY WITH THE WATER
DISTILLED OUT. THE SEEDS ARE THEN PERCOLATED FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR.
THE ALCOHOL IS THEN DISTILLED OFF UNTIL THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF
TABLE SPOONS OF RED LIQUID LEFT IN THE FLASK. THE RED LIQUID IS THEN
ADDED TO A HALF PINT OF LIGHT MINERAL OIL, BOUGHT AT A DRUG STORE.
IT CAN BE SPRAYED FROM A NASAL SPRAY . ANOTHER GOOD WAY IS WITH A
WINDOW CLEANING SPRAYER BOUGHT AT ANY DIME STORE. THE TUBE OF THE
SPRAYER IS CUT TO FIT IN A TWO OUNCE MEDICINE BOTTLE. THIS WAY YOU
HAVE ENOUGH OF THE GOODY TO LAST THROUGH A WHOLE DEMONSTRATION, NO
MATTER WHICH SIDE YOU'RE ON. IT IS ALSO NICE TO KEEP BY THE DOOR OR
BY YOUR COMPUTER TO REPEL INTRUDERS. INTRUDERS. (BELL SECURITY!)
BEFORE USING, THE CONTAINER SHOULD BE GIVEN A PHEW SHAKES. UNDER
LABORATORY ORY CONDITIONS ALL THE OIL IS EXTRACTED FROM THE SEEDS. BUT
WITH MY MICKEY MOUSE METHOD A LOT OF OIL IS LEFT IN SO THE RESIDUE IS
QUITE POTENT. JUST BE SURE YOU STRAIN OUT ANY LARGER BITS SO THE
SPRAYER HOLE IS NOT CLOGGED.
THE GROUND SEEDS LEFT IN THE PERCOLATOR ARE DRIED AND SAVED. THEY ARE
GREAT FOR THROWING INTO THE FACES OF PEOPLE IN A MOB. IF YOU REALLY
WANT A LAUGH, THROW SOME BROADCAST FROM A THEATER BALCONY DURING THE
DEATH SCENE IN "LOVE STORY".
THE GOODY CALLED MACE IS PROBABLY ONLY ACROLEIN. IF NOT, IT WORKS
JUST AS WELL AS MACE AND IS SIMPLE AND FUN TO PRODUCE. IT IS THE SAME
PRODUCT AS DESCRIBED ON PAGES 104 THROUGH 106 OF THE ANARCHIST
COOKBOOK. MINE HOWEVER, IS BROKEN DOWN AND SIMPLIFIED.
ACROLEIN IS NOT TOXIC BUT CAUSES HORRIBLE PAIN IN THE NOSE AND
COPIOUS TEARS, AND IRRITATES THE SKIN. A SHOT IN THE FACE FROM A
WATER PISTOL OR SOME OTHER SPRAYER WILL PUT ANYONE OUT OF THE GAME
FOR AT LEAST HALF AN HOUR.
ACROLEIN IS BEST MADE AND OUNCE AT A TIME. PUT IN THE FLASK 2 1/2
OUNCES OF GLYCERINE AND 3/4 OUNCE OF SODIUM BISULFATE (SANI-FLUSH),
BOTH OF WHICH CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GROCERY STORE.
THE STILL IS SET UP WITH THE OUTSIDE TUBE CONNECTED AS THE FUMES ARE
BAD. WHEN THE MIXTURE STARTS TO BUBBLE IT MUST BE WATCHED CONSTANTLY
TO MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT BUBBLE UP INTO THE NECK OF THE FLASK. IF IT
STARTS FOR THE NECK OF THE FLASK, REMOVE THE LAMP UNTIL IT SETTLES
DOWN. IF THE LAMP IS TOO HOT, THE TIN CAN IS RAISED ON SMALL BLOCKS
UNTIL THE RIGHT HEAT IS GOTTEN.
DISTILL OFF AN OUNCE OF ACROLEIN AND TAKE AWAY THE LAMP. AN OUNCE IS
ALL THIS SIZE BATCH IS GOOD FOR. LET THE FLASK COOL FOR AND HOUR
BEFORE OPENING AND CLEANING. POUR THE RESIDUE DOWN THE SINK AND PUT
YOUR FACE OVER THE DRAIN TO GET A SAMPLE OF THE VAPOR. THEN CAP THE
RECEIVING BOTTLE AND WASH EVERYTHING THE ACROLEIN WAS IN CONTACT
WITH. THE BEST SQUIRTER FOR THE THREE IRRITANTS ABOVE IS A WATER
PISTOL. MOST WATER PISTOL. MOST WATER PISTOLS LEAK BADLY SO THEY
MUST BE TRANSPORTED BARREL UP SO THE GOODY WON'T OOZE OUT AROUND
THE TRIGGER. IT WILL LEAK WHEN YOU USE IT SO IT IS BEST TO PUT IN THE
PLASTIC SANDWICH BAG WITH THE OPENING HELD AROUND THE BARREL WITH
THE RUBBER BAND. IF THE IS PISTOL HAS A TRIGGER GUARD IT SHOULD BE CUT
OFF AND THEN IT CAN BE USED JUST AS EASILY IN A PLASTIC BAG AS
OTHERWISE.
FOR CASUAL CARRYING AROUND, YOU CAN'T BEAT A NASAL SPRAY. THE BEST
ONES CAN BE SCREWED OPEN SO THE GOODY CAN BE POURED IN. IF NOT, YOU
HAVE TO SQUEEZE IT AND PUT ITS NOZZLE INTO THE GOODY. WHEN THE
PRESSURE IS RELEASED THE IRRITANT WILL BE SUCKED UP.
SUCH IRRITANTS ARE ILLEGAL TO CARRY IN SOME STATES. THAT'S ONE OF THE
REASONS THE NASAL SPRAY IS BEST. IF YOU ARE SEARCHED AND IT IS FOUND,
THERE IS LITTLE CHANCE IT WILL BE RECOGNIZED FOR WHAT IT IS. I DON'T
KNOW WHAT ADVICE TO GIVE YOU IF THE COP HAS THE SNIFFLES AND GOES TO
USE SOME OF YOUR GOODY.
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>>>>>> C02 Cartridge Bombs <<<<<<
You will have to use up the new cartridge by either shooting it in a
C02 B-B gun or use it in a C02 car or whatever else you might figure
out to do with it. With a nail, force the hole bigger so as to allow
the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface. Insert a fuse (I recommend good
waterproof cannon fuse, but I've used firecracker fuses.) Light it
and run!!! It does wonders for a row of mail boxes. Be careful
however, this little beauty throws shrapnel and can be quite a
hazard.
>>>>>>Thermite Bombs<<<<<<
The first step in the construction of a thermite bomb is to get some
iron-oxide (rust). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a
short time: First you will need a DC converter which can be found on
a race track or train track. Cut the connector off, separate the two
wires, and strip them both. You will secondly need a jar of water
which has been diluted with salt to make the water a conductor (use
about a tablespoon.) Then insert both wires into the solution and
determine which bubbles the most. You then need to tie a common iron
nail to the one that bubbles the most (The positive wire). If you
don't you will get the opposite of rust...Rust acid! Put the nail
tied to the positive wire and the negative wire in the jar on
opposite sides until they are both completely submerged. Let that
set over night and then remove the (crusty) stuff off the nail and
remove the wires. Let this set until a sufficient amount of the
crust is at the bottom. Remove the excess water and pour the crusty
solution in a cookie sheet and let it dry out in the sun for a couple
of hours, or over night. It should be an orange-brown color, though
I've had it many different colors. Crush the rust into a fine powder
and heat it in a cast iron pot until it's red. (I'm not sure what
that does.)
Now mix the iron-oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought
or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio should
be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum. That's thermite!!!
Now, to light it you must get some magnesium which is sorta hard to
get for me cause my hardware store don't have it. I finally found
that I could get a perfect piece of magnesium ribbon from the
chemistry lab! This ribbon is the fuse of the bomb. It takes the
heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite...But to light
the magnesium you need a blow torch (Don't worry, the blow torch is
not hot enough to light the thermite). Well keep your thermite in a
bag and then when you see an innocent car...Pour a small amount of
thermite on the wood, stick a length of magnesium in it and then light
the magnesium with the blow torch and watch it burn right through the
hood, the block, the axle, and spark and flare on the pavement. Be
careful...The ideal mixtures can vaporize carbonized steel (Which is
damn hot!) Have fun!
>>>>>>Touch Explosive<<<<<<
This is sort of a mild explosive, but can be dangerous in large
quantities. To make touch explosive (Such as that found in a snap and
pop, but more potent) mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the
iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Let it
set until you get a white precipitate at the bottom...Pour off the
excess ammonia and dry out the crystals the same way as the thermite.
Be careful now cause these dried crystals are your touch explosives!
I haven't found a good use for it yet, but it's fun to throw at
people or leave it in their chairs at school..It can get painful if
applied properly!
>>>>>>Letter Bombs<<<<<<
You will first have to make a mild version of thermite as mentioned
above, however you will use just plain iron filings instead of rust.
Mix the iron filing with the aluminum filings in a ratio of 75%
aluminum with 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in an
enclosed space (such as an envelope) which brings us to the next
ingredient. Go to the post office or business supply store and buy
an insulated (padded) envelope. The type that is double layered.
Separate the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section,
where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer
layer. There's your bomb. Now to light it!
This is the tricky part and is hard to explain in writing. Experiment
with this idea until you have got it right. Ok, the fuse is just
that touch explosive placed where the letter would be torn open. You
may want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the
top of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered
magnesium.) When the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard
it will ignite the powdered magnesium (sort of a flashlight) and then
it will burn the mild thermite. I've never sent one of these so I
don't really know if it works good. I do know that the thermite burns
real hot and if it didn't blow up it would give some one a bad burn
(Thermite does wonders on human flesh!!)
>>>>>>Paint Bombs<<<<<<
To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal can with a fastenable
lid, a nice bright color paint, and a quantity of dry ice. Place the
paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the lid
on tightly and then run. With some testing you can get it down so
you have a timer that works on how much ice you have compared with
how much paint you have. If you're really pissed at someone, you
could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!!!
Enough bombs....Let's work on cars.
>>>>>>Ways to Send A Car To Hell<<<<<<
There are a thousand and one ways to destroy a car but I will only
cover those which are most fun and hardest to find out about.
Place thermite on the hood as mentioned above, place burning
magnesium on the hood, tape a Co2 bomb to the (axle, hood, wheel,
muffler, all), put a tampon, dirt, sugar, a ping pong ball, just
about anything) in the gas tank. Put (Potatoes, bananas, rocks, or
anything at all that will fit) in the exhaust pipe. Put a long rag in
the gas tank and catch it on fire (Run real far). Make a jimmey and
pick the lock and then steal the stereo....I'll try to draw a
picture...Cut one of those thin metal rulers into the pattern given
below:
____________________________________________________ ____
|__| \
sorta phallic huh? |
|--| /
---------------------------------------------------- ---
The important part are the notches on the sides which are used to
pull up on the cable which pulls up the lock! Get stereos,
equalizers, radar detectors, car guns, loose change and cassette
tapes, and then destroy the inside (a knife is handy for the seats.)
>>>>>>Phone Related Vandalism<<<<<<
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able
to ruin someone's phone line very easily. All you must do is go to
their house and find the green junction box that interfaces their
line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the major
lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are usually
underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench and loosen
the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or a
bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable.. Cut it
into segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced. There's a
week of work!!! Or you can do my favorite, call them with a
directory dialer for about a week...They won't get another call
besides yours for that entire week! How about calling the phone
company and having it disconnected for a while, or have their mail
held for a month or two (Say you're going on vacation and give them
their address.)
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ЪДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДї
і P H R E A K I N G і
АДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДДЩ
For those of you who don't know what the term PHREAKING means, it
refers to using the telephones to do your dirty deeds. This can
include making "Boxes" which trick the phone system into giving you
free calls and tapping. In this edition of the Spook Guide, I'll just
stick to simple Phreaking techniques. In issue two we'll get down and
dirty.
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Have you ever wanted to know what your brother/sister/parents/
friends/enemies were saying as they hid somewhere, cordless phone in
hand? With this phile, now you can! Just follow the simple
instructions outlined inside.
First some information about cordless telephones:
The original cordless telephones (1978-about late 1983) were made to
be used on the 1.6 to 1.8 MHz band. If you will notice, 1.6 MHz is
also the top end of the AM broadcast band. These phones operate on
AM (just like the radio stations) and use the wiring in your house
for an antenna. The power of these phones is 1/10 of a watt in most
cases, or about 1/50th of the power that your average CB radio will
put out. So, not having a lot of power, it is tough to hear these
phones. You know how they say '500 foot range'? Sure, that's the
range of the handset to the base, but not of the signals emitted by
the base! Which means that on good nights you can hear them for
many miles (I live in NJ an have heard telephones VERY loudly from NY
City, 35 MILES away!).
The newer phones, however, are not as easy to hear. They operate
on FM on the 49 MHz band, which is the same frequency which your
little walkie-talkies that you loved as a ten year old operate on.
These phones require a little bit more effort to be heard than do the
old ones (and a little $$$). Never fear, however, because about 1
out of 10 phones is the old style, and they are still being made and
sold today.
How To Do It:
For the old style phones, you will need to get a pocket size AM
transistor radio. The one I used was an AM/FM Realistic (bought for
$9 at Radio Shack). There should be a small plastic box inside the
radio. This little 'box' is the VFO (Variable Frequency Oscillator)
which controlls the frequency of the radio. Now of course, you
aren't going to have a digital frequency counter (they only cost
$400, so everyone should have at least two of them) so before you do
anything, turn on the radio and tune to the top of the band and find
the station which is closest to the top of the broadcast band. Write
down the frequency so you have something to compare to later.
Now, turn off the radio, get a small size screwdriver, and adjust the
small screw(s) on the back of the little plastic box. Don't turn
them more than a quarter turn at a time. Now, when you have done
your first 'tweak' of the screws, turn on the radio and see where
that station at the top of the band is now on the frequency dial.
When you have gotten the station 150-200 kHz down from where it was,
(like if the frequency was 1600, get it down between 1400 and 1450),
you are all set to recieve cordless telephones at the top end of the
radio! Note: this little 'trick' may not work as well on all radios,
but it is worth a try. If worse comes to worse, you can turn them
back.
The ideal distance is a close to the base as you can get, but this
sucker should pull in signals from up to 500 feet away with no
problem. Simply go near someones house with this, and then have fun!
Another way: Another way to do this, if the VFO adjustment trick
does'nt work, is to adjust the small metal boxes that have little
colored screws in them. These are the tuning coils for the reciever
circuit, and they affect the frequency also. Another possibility is
a combination of turning the VFO screws and the coils to try to get
the desired effect. Good Luck!
Now for the tough ones, the new phones. The new phones work on the
49 MHz band. You are going to need one of the 'new' walkie talkies
that operate on 49 MHz ===- FM -=== (the cheap shit ones are
AM). If you decide to invest in one at Radio Shack or similar store,
make damn sure you get FM walkie talkies. If you get AM, you're
screwed, unless you have a friend who is killer into electronics or
ham radio who has the knowledge to convert AM to FM. (Yes, it can be
done. I have done it with CB's, and it is great for CB because no
one can understand what you are saying unless they have a FM-
converted CB.....Hmm.....that may be my next text phile...look for
it!!) Anyway.....when you get your FM walkie talkie, you can do one
of two things:
A) You can play the adjust the coils trick as mentioned in the last
article (there is no VFO because walkie talkies are crystal
controlled).
B) You can change the crystal. Popular frequencies for cordless
phones are 49.830, 49.860 and 49.890 MHz. These crystals can be
obtained from electronic supply houses (like ones that sell chips for
your Apple) for about $2 or less each.
And that just about concludes this phile. There are two other
shortcut methods that can be used to bypass this mess and get you
listening in right away.
1) Get a general coverage receiver. They cover all frequencies
from 100 kHz to 30 MHz, and will provide you with 'armchair'
reception because you can hook up a monster antenna. (I have a 1964
vintage model that I got for $10 sitting on my desk with a 600 foot
long piece of wire for an antenna....boy, I know everything in my
neighborhood before the ladies start gossiping!)
2) If you play guitar or bass, and have a 'wireless' system for
your guitar like the Nagy 49R, you can hook up a 12 volt lantern
battery and go prowling around listening for the phones. (Bass
rules!)
Method 1 only works on the old phones because of the frequency
limitations of the reciever, and method 2 is for new phones only
because the 'wireless' systems only work on 49 MHz FM.
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B L A C K B O X
NOTE: This only works on Crossbar Telephone systems. Make sure you
aren't on a ,,,, before trying this.
A black box is a device that is hooked up to your phone, so when
you get a call, the caller doesn't get charged long distance.
This is good for up to 1/2 hour, after 1/2 hour the phone co.
gets suspicous, and then you can guess what happens.
The way it works:
What this little beauty does is keep the line voltage from
dropping to 10v when you answer your phone. The line is instead
kept at 36v and it will make the phone think that it is still
ringing while your talking. The reason for the 1/2 hour time
limit is that the phone co. thinks that something is wrong after
1/2 an hour of ringing.
All parts are available radio shack. Using the least possible
parts and arangement, the cost is $0.98 !!!! and that is parts
for two of them! Talk about a deal! If you want to splurge
then you can get a small PC board, and a switch. There are
two schematics for this box, one is for most normal phones.
The second one is for phones that don't work with the first.
It was made for use with a bell trimline touch tone phone.
** SCHEMATIC 1 FOR MOST PHONES ** **
LED ON: BOX ON
FROM >--------------------GREEN-> TO
LINE >--! 1.8K LED !---RED--> PHONE
!--/\/\/\--!>--!
! !
------>/<-------
SPST
PARTS: 1 1.8K 1/2 WATT RESISTOR
1 1.5V LED
1 SPST SWITCH
You may just have two wires which you connect together for the
switch.
** SCHEMATIC 2 FOR ALL PHONES **
** LED ON: BOX OFF **
FROM >---------------GREEN-> TO
LINE >------- ---RED--> PHONE
! LED !
-->/<--!>--
! !
---/\/\/---
1.8K
PARTS: 1 1.8K 1/2 WATT RESISTOR
1 1.5V LED
1 DPST SWITCH
Here is the PC board layout that I recommend using. It's neat
and very easy to hook up.
SCHEMATIC #1 SCHEMATIC #2
************** ****************
* * * ------- *
* --<LED>--- * * ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! <SWITCH> *
* RESISTOR ! * * ! ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
* -------- ! * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! <LED>! / *
* --SWITCH-- * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
L * ! ! * F L * ! ! ! * F
I>RED- -RED>O I>RED- ---RED>O
N>-----GREEN---->N N>-----GREEN------>N
E * H * E E * * E
************** ****************
Once you have hooked up all the parts, you must figure out which
set of wires go to the line and which go to the phone. This is
because of the fact that led's must be put in, in a certain
direction. Depending on which way you put the LED is what controls
what wires are for the line and phone.
How to find out:
Hook up the box in one direction using one set of wires for line
and the other for phone.
*NOTE* For model I switch should be off.
*NOTE* For model ][ switch should be set to side connecting the
LED.
Once you have hooked it up, then pick up the phone and see if the
led is on. If it is, the LED will be lit. If it doesn't light up
then switch the wires and try again. Once you know which are which
then label them.
*NOTE* If neither directions worked then your switch was in the
wrong position. Now label the switch in its current position as
box on.
How to use it:
The purpose of this box is not for outgoing calls. It can only be
used for incoming calls. When the box is *on* then you may only
recieve calls. Your phone will ring like normal and the LED on
the box will flash. If you answer the phone now, then the led will
light and the caller will not be charged. Hang up the phone after
you are done talking like normal. You will not be able to get
a dial-tone or call when the box is on, so turn the box *off*
for normal calls. I don't recommend you don't want it to answer
when Ma Bell calls!
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A N T I M O D E M W E A P O N
An effective modem weapon, especially on crossbar phone system. (Will
still operate on Ess but you will kill phone service to your prefix
for a few hours, and everyone talking will be cut off on your prefix
and the one yu called)
What is this device? Its a Tesla Coil. The Tesla coil when proprly
used will generate literally thousands or volts at very low amperage.
(Just the right current to bake silicon chip cookies.)
SET UP
1. Disconnect all phones from your line. Disconnect answering dvices
and any data-transmission devices.
2. Run a preliminary test on the coil and disconnect nearby grounded
objects. (Lamps Stereos, TV's etc...)
3. Connect one phone that you see fit to subject.(It usually des not
destroy phones, (But I have seen them melt off walls.)
4. Connect iron or steel balls to the green and red wires of yor
connected phone (these are the line wires that go into the wall.) l1
ad l2 terminals of your phone.
5. Put on a pair of thick rubber gloves (EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!)
6. Charge coil to at least 10,000 volts. An ideal setting is arund 18
to 19 thousand, but 10 will jump Bells line surge protectors.
7. Hold metal balls in your left hand. (Make sure they don't toch
each other) When the coil is fully charged, clip the steel ball
cnnected to the red wire to the base of the tesla coil and hold the
other metal ball as far away from the coil as you can.
8. Dial the offending modems number.
9. When connected, move the metal object connected to the gree wire
within 2 feet of the coils top.
-> Don't be afraid of the little bolts at the top of the coil...
10. Within 3 seconds a huge bolt of lightning will shoot forth at the
phone from the hand that you are holding the balls in.
Hold on tight cause it'll feel like loads of ants crawling on you!
You will immediatly hear many strange oscilations to the carrier on
the phone. The last noise you will hear is a pop! from the phone.
That is the last cry of agony as it shuts down. Crossbar just
disconnects.
Guaranteed to fry the modem, the computer and any peripherals. or
anyone who answers the phone!
ALL DAMAGE IS UN-REPAIRABLE.
including lives!!!
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і D R U G S і
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Okay, you've ripped off people, blown them up and set fire to the
city. After a hard day's work it's time to kick back. Here's some
tips on making and growing drugs to help you relax.
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MARIJUANA: HOME GROWING
First get some seeds. From either your stash or a friend. You will
have to first germinate your seeds (You could just stick em' in the
soil and wait but WHY?)
To germinate: Get a clear plastic cassette and stick the
seed/seeds in then wrap with wet paper towel.
It will eventually dry, but keep the paper on
the outside wet. Soon sprouts should appear
To begin: Get a planting pot either small or large
(Large is better, but if you don't have one
use a small one then get a larger one in
the future). Fill the pot with some enriched
soil and moisten overnight. Now your ready to
start!
To start: CAREFULLY place the germinated seed/seeds in the
soil. Then place in direct light. If you want an
outdoor plant then place outdoors in a secluded
area away from the general public. The plant
needs light. Try to have the sun/light on it all
day. After a period of a few weeks the plant
should be getting bigger, if not then start
the process all over. You might have a stunted
plant.
To maintain: Go get some Miracle Grow plant food. The rose
kind is perfect. Follow the directions on the
box to feed. Water at least 3 times a week and
trim if necessary. Try some chicken guts or
some light manure to help the process along.
Wait till plant is 6-12" in height then
you must transplant it.
To transplant: Did you get that big planter yet? Get a LARGE
planter at a garden store and fill with fresh
soil. Moisten overnight again. Fertilize lightly
with manure or Miracle Grow if possible. Now
dig a hole in the center and make room for the
old plant. Grab the small pot in your left hand
and use your right forefinger and middle finger
and carefully grasp the bottom stem and flip
upside down. The plant should pop out with the
pot shaped soil connected to the roots.
Carefully break up the soil as you place it in
the hole in the new pot. Try not to damage the
roots or the plant itself or it might go into
shock. When it is firmly seated in the new soil
pat it down with some new soil until level.
Follow the above maintaining tips for the remainder
of the growth. You will need a magnifying glass
to look at the glands when ready. A female plant
should have little "buds" growing. If you see
flowers it is a male plant. The glands will be large
and look like little sacs ready to burst THC.
Then you will know you are ready to harvest
(Approx. 5-7 months later)
To harvest: Either uproot the plant or cut the stem at the
base. Turn the whole plant or sections upside-
down. Hang it somewhere in the sun. If you keep
it in the dark it may become moldy and worthless.
after a week or so it should be dry enough to
package/or smoke. Do not smoke stem or seed,
other than not getting you high, it will give you
a splitting headache.
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ASSORTED DRUGS
In no way am I responsible for for any injuries caused by the
use/misuse of these drugs. You should treat these drugs like
alcohol. Use them only as an added experience in life, rather than as
an escape.
These recipes are all found in a book which has reliable sources. All
should work if made properly.
MAKING L.S.D. AT HOME
1] Grind up 150 grams of morning glory seeds or baby hawaiian wood
rose seeds.
2] In 130 c.c. of petroleum ether soak the seeds for 2 days.
3] Filter the solution through a tight screen.
4] Throw away liquid, and allow seeds mush to dry.
5] For 2 days allow the mush to soak in 110 c.c. of wood alcohol.
6] Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it '1'
7] Resoak the mush in 110 c.c. of wood alcohol for 2 days.
8] Filter and throw away mush.
9] Add liquid from the second soak to the liquid labeled '1'.
10] Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate.
11] When all liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. this
should be scraped and put in capsules.
30 grams of morning glory seeds
- or -
15 hawaiian wood rose seeds
- equals -
one trip
** Note ** Many companies have been known to coat their seeds with
toxin. order seeds from a wholesaler.
BANANDINE (Made from bananas)
Bananas do contain a small quantity of a mild short lasting
psychedelic drug. There are better ways of getting high but the great
advantage of this is that bananas are legal (of course!)
1] Obtain 15 lbs of ripe yellow bananas
2] Peel them all, eat the chow, keep the peels.
3] With a sharp knife, scrape off the insides of the peelings, and
save the scraped material.
4] Put all scraped material in a large pot and add water. Boil for
three to four hours until it has attained a solid paste.
5] Spread this paste on cookie sheets and dry in oven for about 20
min. to a half an hour. This will result in a fine black powder roll
it up and smoke about 3-4 of those dudes
PEANUTS
1] Obtain a pound of peanuts.
2] Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
3] Pork out on the nuts while watching dr. who one night.
4] Grind up the skins, roll them, smoke them.
TOAD SKINS (you're crazy!!)
1] collect 5-10 toads
2] kill them as painlessly as possible and skin them as soon as
possible!
3] allow skins to dry on the fridge for 4 to 5 days, or until they
are brittle.
4] crush into a powder and smoke. Due to the bad taste, mix it with
mint or something else.
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і A P P E N D I X і
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Household Names for Chemicals
Chemical name Household Name
------------- --------------
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulphate plaster of Paris
carbonic acid seltzer
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite black lead (pencil lead)
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetroxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bitartrate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
silicon dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate Glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo
These are some of the ingredients used in these Anarchy Documents! So
if you get confused by the name, refer to these!
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END OF SPOOK FILE 1