Booby Traps
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[Road Trap]
This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It
is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around
the house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the 
explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring
maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes
across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into
the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the
negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each
charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The
clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a
thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is
pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the
clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect
the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.

[Walk Trap]
This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road
trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion
detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy
firing pin. The heat created from the detonator's explosion will be
sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective
in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure).

                                                     ######
                                                    ######## 
                                                    #[TREE]#
                                                    ########
                                                     ######
                                                       ||
                                                       ||
                                                      /||
                           !:!.;!.!.;!:;.!           / ||
                          !:;[Tall Grass];!   Wire->/  ||
                          !;::!;;.;!.;;!.;!        /   ||
                          !.;..!;..;.:!.;!!       /    ||
    ______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________
                          -----[Board]-----     / 
                          |     ______    |    /
                          |----|heavy |---|---/ <-Safety Pin
                          |    |firing|   |
                          |     \pin /    |
                          |      \  /     | 
                          |       \/      |
                          |               |
                          |               |
                          |------####-----| <---[### = Detonator]
                          |///////////////|
                          |/////[TNT]/////|
                          |///////////////|
                          |_______________|

[Bangalore Torpedo]
This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of
dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus
permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have
a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted.
It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and
steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and
even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a
substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with
electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many
layers of each.

[Homemade Hand Grenade]
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a
wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the
dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second
fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is
full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse.

                                  /
                             ====|====
                             =.:.|.:.=
                             =:.:|.:.= <--[:.: = Iron Scraps]
                             =.:.|:.:=
                             =---|---=
                             =///+///=
                             =///+///= <--[+ = Non-electric Blasting Cap]
                             =///+///=
                             =///////=
                             =///////= <--[/// = Dynamite]
                             =========
                                |||
                                ||| <-- Wooden Handle
                                |||
                                |||

[Anti-Personnel Grenade]
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end,
either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly
with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the
detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch
tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached
to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated
with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another
piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be
hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron,
which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece 
of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or
wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the
sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will
cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If
this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the
enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick or
by curiosity.

[Book Trap]
To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The 
book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place,
put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two
metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a
wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must
be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the
shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical 
circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.

[Loose Floorboard Trap]
This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on
two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath
the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a 
metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the
loose floorboard.

[Gate Trap]
This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To
cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and
place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure
necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure
will be released and the grenade detonated.

[Chimney Trap]
Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a 
nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the
dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse 
hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up
the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat 
generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the
chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by
the very structure of the chimney.

[Car Trap]
It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry
your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself. 
Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical
ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned,
it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place
to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then
the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the
front seat.

[Pipe Trap]
There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very
similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker's
head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of
the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to
a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the
pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the
explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off.
        The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A
very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an
activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will
attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the
stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint. 
The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the
explosives.

[Cacodyal]
Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to be
satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygen
from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal
arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is
C4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous
inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be put
into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it will
explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a
dense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One
inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds.

[Molotov Cocktail]
        This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. A
quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of an
old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. The
bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it
will burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with
water. These were used with varying degree of success in the struggle
in Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank.

[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices]

        A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the
pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the
metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by
steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction-
sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small
ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When
the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating
enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge.
        An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full 
of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction 
of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through
a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive
damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.
        An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of
matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon
combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches,
and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger
combustible material.
        Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle,
friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The
candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle
burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can
usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device.

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